Bodie Posted October 4, 2021 Posted October 4, 2021 Hi folks. Finally seeing some progress now that I am in the 90% completed and only have 90% to go category. I was wondering if someone could post a pic of the completed dual brake setup showing the routing of the brake lines and how they loop from the master cylinders to the slave cylinders. I'm just not exactly sure how much excess line to leave in the loop for clearance, etc. Once again, the instructions have been a bit less than stellar.... Any advice would be welcome. Also thanks again for all the great posts. This site has been a wealth of information. -steve 1
Marty_d Posted October 4, 2021 Posted October 4, 2021 I'd also be interested in that, at roughly the same point. (Although mine's a 701, the main gear and rudder pedals inc. cylinders are off a Sav, so the system should be the same.)
IBob Posted October 5, 2021 Posted October 5, 2021 Hi Bodie, here is a pilot only brake setup. It also has park brake at the top left of the pic: if you haven't got that the lines would loop forward then run back along one of the stringers there. You will use a fair bit of rudder on the Savannah, so the lines need to be looped forward to stay clear of the pedals etc before running back down the side. Since the brake lines are quite stiff and the couplings at the cylinders point forward, they tend to loop forward anyway. I can't speak for the dual brake setup, but the same would apply: the lines need to be looped forward. Once you have the nosewheel and rudder on and hooked up, it is then quite easy to check where the lines sit as you operate the pedals.
Bodie Posted October 5, 2021 Author Posted October 5, 2021 Thanks IBob. So it looks like you ran both brake lines into the cabin on the left hand side? Did you go under the seats through the tunnel? -steve
IBob Posted October 5, 2021 Posted October 5, 2021 Hi Steve. Yes, I ran both brake lines back along the LH fuselage and in under the seats. In the cockpit, I tucked them away in the split corrugated black plastic sleeving you see there, which does a nice job of tidying the various tubing and wiring. The RH brake tube then crosses over through the bottom of the tunnel. I'm not saying this is how it 'should' be done, it's how it worked best for me. I made sure all piping and wiring is anchored at various points to prevent any vibration and chafing. It's a really good idea to leave the seat pans out until this piping and the wiring is all done, especially the LH seat pan but ideally both of them. It makes the job a whole lot easier. 1
Marty_d Posted October 6, 2021 Posted October 6, 2021 14 hours ago, IBob said: It's a really good idea to leave the seat pans out until this piping and the wiring is all done, especially the LH seat pan but ideally both of them. It makes the job a whole lot easier. I fully agree with that and wish I had!! I drilled out the rivets holding the L/H seat pan the other day in order to mount the battery isolator under the seat. I've left it loose now until I get everything else done.
IBob Posted October 6, 2021 Posted October 6, 2021 11 hours ago, Marty_d said: I fully agree with that and wish I had!! I drilled out the rivets holding the L/H seat pan the other day in order to mount the battery isolator under the seat. I've left it loose now until I get everything else done. Marty, I would be surprised if there is a build yet that didn't also involve the removal of rivets: in my case I riveted one whole area 3 times over, before slamming the shed door and taking a long break! The Savannah now has hatches in the pans under the seats, but it's still fiddly trying to work through them, as I recently discovered when shifting my headset sockets.
perrynz Posted October 6, 2021 Posted October 6, 2021 Hi Steve. Here’s a couple of pics of the dual brake set up. I have since removed the passenger side brakes as the factory supplied cylinders/reservoirs leaked, and therefore continually had a pool of fluid sitting on the top. Essentially the second pair is “piggy backed” off the first pair. You need to route/secure the lines so that when the pedals are fully forward, there is nil (or little) chance of hooking your feet in them. Cheers. Perry
perrynz Posted October 6, 2021 Posted October 6, 2021 Steve. In addition to my previous comments, here are a couple of pics of the parking brake arrangement in the Savannah S. The yellow lever (LH lower side of instrument panel) operates two “in line” hydraulic ball valves. They are simply a hydraulic lock which, after applying the brake pedals and rotating the yellow lever down, the pressure in the lines is locked in place, and hence parks the brakes. Off the top of my head, I can’t recall if this was an ICP supplied item, or sourced via the (then) Australasian agent. Perry 1 1
eightyknots Posted October 9, 2021 Posted October 9, 2021 On 05/10/2021 at 11:06 AM, Marty_d said: I'd also be interested in that, at roughly the same point. (Although mine's a 701, the main gear and rudder pedals inc. cylinders are off a Sav, so the system should be the same.) It sounds like you're building a Zenvannah. 1
Bodie Posted October 10, 2021 Author Posted October 10, 2021 Hi Perry. Thanks so much. The pics are perfect, and you have a nice tidy setup. Appreciate the commentary about keeping clearances in mind. -steve
Kyle Communications Posted October 11, 2021 Posted October 11, 2021 Its a good idea to put rivnuts in the seat covers in the frame...My new arrangement in Mabel although a different setup is all rivnuts...I had to pull out the seat bases in The Girlfriend...it was a PIA. I didnt put rivnuts in when I should have. I didnt do the same mistake on mabel 1 1
Bodie Posted October 11, 2021 Author Posted October 11, 2021 Thanks for the info. From previous posts on the savannah forum I read I had already done that, although only on the left seat where the fuel, electric, flap control, etc go. I didn't think there was much need to get under the right seat except I see a few folks place electric fuel pumps on that side.
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