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Posted

need both.  i have 3 negative bus and 1 positive bus in my build.  3 negatives being 1 main and 2 placed neg posts to eliminate fuse as a ground so all negatives are fully connected to battery neg.

Posted

After fitting a dynon Garmin transponder I have a lot redundant wiring under my Savannah dash. Too big a mess. The original Icp wiring splits to feed a10and 20 amp fuse breaker. I’m going to rewire the power feeds with tefzel wire,probably 20amp,any suggestions? Next I have three options.  1. Put in a10 and 15 amp busbar of the existing fuse breakers.  Option 2.   Power one busbar and then individually fuse each line,most have their own fuse protection anyway. Option 3. Out in an automotive type fuse block and feed off that. Marc Ausman from EAA gives this system the green light in his tutorials. I think this would be the easiest for any future troubleshooting or maintenance. Any advice or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, mek said:

After fitting a dynon Garmin transponder I have a lot redundant wiring under my Savannah dash. Too big a mess. The original Icp wiring splits to feed a10and 20 amp fuse breaker. I’m going to rewire the power feeds with tefzel wire,probably 20amp,any suggestions? Next I have three options.  1. Put in a10 and 15 amp busbar of the existing fuse breakers.  Option 2.   Power one busbar and then individually fuse each line,most have their own fuse protection anyway. Option 3. Out in an automotive type fuse block and feed off that. Marc Ausman from EAA gives this system the green light in his tutorials. I think this would be the easiest for any future troubleshooting or maintenance. Any advice or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated.

I have 4 main c/b's then have individual c/b/switches to items.  reduces a short in the wiring taking out the  whole system

Edited by Blueadventures

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