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Posted

Further, my AC 43, tells me in 6-42, that one must drill small holes and flush with hot linseed

Ken

  • Like 1
Posted

Spraying stuff inside the tubes is intuitively correct. After seeing a car which rusted worse after this sort of spray, my advice would be to keep checking the rust.

I have no explanation as to what was the chemistry with that car.

Posted

How are you going to know if it's rusted inside? It often starts from there. Anything fit for purpose must help. in the way of an inhibitor. If it's near salt you have no real hope long term.  Nev

Posted

It was a datsun 180 and yes it may have once been near the sea. Inside the box sections, under the doors, the rust was terrible and it was mixed up with the inhibitor spray. I was shown this car after saying how the inhibitor spray would fix the problem. It sure did not.

Posted

I owned a 180B in the late 70s. At 3 years old both front mudguards had to be replaced as they had completely rusted out. It didn't live by the sea but had water traps in the body panels with next to no rust inhibiting paint. The engine was good but the body was rubbish. The 120Y of the same era was the same.

Posted

Cow$#!T under guards will do the same. Some Datsuns came out as deck cargo. Plenty of cars rusted badly. Sells more new ones  Alfa Romeo were notable for little undercoat and paint in places you could not see, Mercedes and American Motors Rebel etc were trying harder.  You could buy a zinc dipped Mini Moke..   Nev

Posted

Back in those days one of the big sellers was Fishoilene. We all used it inside the door panels and under the car. It smelled pretty yuck for a week or so, but it did cut down on the rust. Nowadays cars are better made and rust is nowhere near as bad as in the seventies. They were poorly made and poorly put together. There was a time when every Holden you saw on the road had a piece of trim dangling underneath.

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn’t understand why my EH Holden was so cheap until I hit tree; discovered the wheel arches were made of bog.

The sealed beam headlights were well made- they survived the prang and went on to give sterling service on my motorcycle.

Posted

I would think removing one door would be ok, two could allow to much airflow in cabin and could be a drag problem. Cherokee doors often have opened in flight without big issues, because I think it’s only got one door. Best policy is stick to what flight manual allows!

  • Agree 1
Posted

I have opened the door in every aircraft I have ever practiced a forced landing in as standard practice but of course only at best glide. The slipstream stops you from opening it wide but there is little effect other than wind noise. Taking it off altogether is another matter altogether. Buffetting is pretty likely like opening the rear window in a car when all the others are closed. That goes away as soon as you crack open another window.

Posted
3 hours ago, F10 said:

I would think removing one door would be ok, two could allow to much airflow in cabin and could be a drag problem. Cherokee doors often have opened in flight without big issues, because I think it’s only got one door. Best policy is stick to what flight manual allows!

I flew from Parafield to Tumby bay in a PA28 with the door open. Didn't even know until my passenger asked if it was dangerous. The gap was maybe one inch and the effects were zero.

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