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Posted

Can I suggest that you leave Skippys post in this thread and also duplicate it in your new thread, the post starting;

 

"It's amazing how conversations on this Forum can dive down unexpected, often entertaining/instructive "rabbit holes".

 

This is not one of those beneficial digressions - there are certain people who have voiced opinions, completely unrelated to the maintenance of Rotax 9 engines regarding the installation of spark plugs.

 

I warn Rotax maintainers against these opinions (anti size and unspecified lubricants) -  they have no application  in the installation of spark plugs in Rotax 9 engines.

 

......... "

 

 

and then move all the posts after that into your new thread.

 

 

I did not use your new thread as the context of the discussion would be lost.

 

  • Caution 1
Posted
On 06/06/2024 at 6:47 PM, facthunter said:

Read what I just posted above.  Nev

Agree; the purpose for all aluminium engines is to prevent thread-lock. Tear the thread out of a plug hole and you’ll be convinced for life.

  • Like 1
Posted

That would be a pretty good way of  restructuring the argument just because YOU don't like it. IF You haven't NOTICED ... up till now. I've consistently said "DO WHAT THE  MAKER ADVISES"..  There's confusion here about Silicone, silicon  and silica. Some of the silicone sealants I use go hard in the tube before I finish them.. How do you clean the thread of the remains of the old sealant? What solvent would you use? any remaining grunge would maybe keep the  thread from having the optimum contact and also negate the validity of the torquing figure.. There's a big risk of the wrong product being used. ."This one has silicon in it and should do it." as I don't have the brand you asked for. Hence the possibility of the unknown variable creeping in.  Murphy's Law. .Nev 

Posted

The NGK plugs say don't use  ANYTHING as it can be detrimental.  I'd GO by their advice. if I used them. .  Nev

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Can anyone confirm that Goldfren AD904 brake pads for aluminium calipers are a drop in replacement for Marc Ingegno 010203109 Rev0 pads to suit a P92 Echo or similar ?......and if so, where best to source Goldfren pads ?

Posted
57 minutes ago, Moneybox said:

No I’m going to blow big money and buy the genuine kit that includes floats and springs. 
This was given to me by a guy at the Aircraft Builders Club of WA. 

That's a shame - without a test pilot it's quite a gamble.

 

Any chance you can contact the "guy" and get further details ie first hand account of fitting & using???😈

  • Like 1
Posted

I know we've discussed this somewhere before, but what's the drama with using the motorcycle carbie kit? Isn't the carbie the same model? Using the same fuel? 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Posted

I'm pretty certain there are various models on the bike. When that happens they often make a few different gaskets to cover all the possibilities. The needle is modified on the aero one to make it (sort of) altitude responsive in mixture.  I don't like the Carb that much.  and wouldn't take chances. It's ON an AEROPLANE. Nev

Posted
2 hours ago, facthunter said:

I'm pretty certain there are various models on the bike. When that happens they often make a few different gaskets to cover all the possibilities. The needle is modified on the aero one to make it (sort of) altitude responsive in mixture.  I don't like the Carb that much.  and wouldn't take chances. It's ON an AEROPLANE. Nev

whats wrong with them. they seem to do a good job. the bing website makes no distinction between a motorbike or aircraft application. i can't see why there would be different gaskets. they all look identical.

Posted

 If you buy the genuine Bing stuff from somewhere like Motorworks or MotoBins then its the same parts as you would get from Rotax.

Bing dont make dont make special parts just for Rotax

I've used Diaphraghms, jets etc from them

  • Informative 4
Posted
11 hours ago, facthunter said:

I'm pretty certain there are various models on the bike. When that happens they often make a few different gaskets to cover all the possibilities. The needle is modified on the aero one to make it (sort of) altitude responsive in mixture.  I don't like the Carb that much.  and wouldn't take chances. It's ON an AEROPLANE. Nev

The needle Jabiru use on some iterations is indeed the only part that isnt a standard motorcycle bit everything else is identical to to the motorcycle equivalent

  • Informative 4
Posted

Always used float bowl cork gaskets in the past (as shown in Moneybox photo above) - think Rotax supplied ones are now "Viton" or similar material. The Viton ones are a lot less pron to installation damage and seal better as well.

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1
Posted
1 hour ago, skippydiesel said:

Always used float bowl cork gaskets in the past (as shown in Moneybox photo above) - think Rotax supplied ones are now "Viton" or similar material. The Viton ones are a lot less pron to installation damage and seal better as well.

Cork for years on the Rotax cark bowls is too agricultural (rough and ready) for me, they were prone to breaking and falling apart.  Best to change to the new black ones.  I also carry two spares (in case myself or a flying mate needs one urgently; like on a flying tour.

  • Like 1
  • Informative 2
Posted

There have been plenty of cases of cork gaskets disintegrating and blocking fuel supply causing engine failure. This happened to a friend of mine several years ago when cork particles reduced the fuel flow stopping the engine in his Tiger Moth. The engine was still wind milling and the engine fired again about 200 feet above the tree tops after the reduced flow filled the carb bowl up again. This gave him just enough time to get down on a clear area. He got rid of the blockage & took off again & got back to the aerodrome.

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
  • Informative 1
Posted
26 minutes ago, Moneybox said:

I don’t know if I’ll go back there. The guys were very eager to help but it’s very much a closed club. No access unless somebody activates the remote controlled gate. It’s even a difficult club to join needing two referrals from club members. One hundred hangers for owner builders but I couldn’t buy one because I’d need to be a club member for more than one year. 

Maybe worth the effort to become a member, depending on cost.  Where I am we have 10 hangars and when for sale the new owner needs a 70% vote in favour by the other owners.  It always been the rule and worked to date.  Keeps out persons who are annoyance or disrespect-able to others.  Sounds like the person who shared the info would be one reference.  

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, facthunter said:

Any club that accepts me I wouldn't want to belong to.   Nev

I don't think so.

Posted
17 minutes ago, facthunter said:

I have High standards.  Nev

Just don't want any 003 1/2  people (licensed to irritate)[007 licensed to kill]🤠😇🤪:plane:🎯

Posted

I think I must hold the record , for ' club membership '

refusal. 

I tried to. Join the " St George & Sutherland" fishing club.

The refusal was by one committee member .

Who's brother , I purchased a boat from .

so no fishing trips , with experienced fishing members .

spacesailor

 

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