Started a spare parts list

[old man emu]

I think that creating a database of equivalent parts is a great idea if you own something that is a bit rare.

 

I have a 2005 manufactured car, which is still in good nick at 185,000 kms. However, I find it difficult to source consumables like brake pads, and may be even brake discs. This morning I have to go into town and get my mechanic to whip off a front wheel to pull a brake pad so it can be measured. There are two sizes (lengths) listed for my car and it's useless to order them from my supplier in Sydney without knowing which size is correct. 

[skippydiesel]

On 15/03/2023 at 10:17 AM, old man emu said:

I think that creating a database of equivalent parts is a great idea if you own something that is a bit rare.

 

I............................

AND/OR  the OM parts are just a tad pricy.

[skippydiesel]

You might like to add Gap Tape from https://wingsandwheels.com/gap-seal-tape.html.

 

Its white comes in a range of widths is both durable and easy to remove (most of the glue comes away even after being in place for several years) - Not cheap but does "the job" very well.

[danny_galaga]

4 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

You might like to add Gap Tape from https://wingsandwheels.com/gap-seal-tape.html.

 

Its white comes in a range of widths is both durable and easy to remove (most of the glue comes away even after being in place for several years) - Not cheap but does "the job" very well

That's more of a toolbox thing, rather than replacing specific parts on my plane.

[skippydiesel]

33 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

That's more of a toolbox thing, rather than replacing specific parts on my plane.

The tape they provide is sort of similar to electrical insulating tape (tool box) but must have different adhesive, is UV resistant, durable and comes in  a few diffrent widths. I guess competitive glider pilots apply/remove each time they assemble/disassemble their aircraft but for me the tape stayed in place for up to 3 years, so I would argue not so much a tools box item.

[danny_galaga]

3 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

The tape they provide is sort of similar to electrical insulating tape (tool box) but must have different adhesive, is UV resistant, durable and comes in  a few diffrent widths. I guess competitive glider pilots apply/remove each time they assemble/disassemble their aircraft but for me the tape stayed in place for up to 3 years, so I would argue not so much a tools box item.

TRue, but still not really an item I need to put in my list of substitutes for OEM stuff. There's no specific call for that tape on my aircraft

[skippydiesel]

1 minute ago, danny_galaga said:

TRue, but still not really an item I need to put in my list of substitutes for OEM stuff. There's no specific call for that tape on my aircraft

Aha! - "....no specific call...." this may be so however if here are gaps between surface, you are likely to experience greater wind noise, rain, dust & insect ingress. A wee bit o tape can make all of this less likely , and barely add more than a few grams to your aircraft weight (even the GA crowd are known to use it).

[danny_galaga]

Latest item is the regulator/rectifier. I got a Carmo. Less wires and runs cooler.

 

Made in the Netherlands.

 

HUP HOLLAND! HUP!

 

 🙂

Edited March 23, 2023 by danny_galaga

[Marty_d]

Hi all, in regards to @danny_galaga's original post about radiator hoses... having never installed radiator hoses on anything before (including cars) - is standard procedure to locate one long length with the right shape to extend from the radiator to the expansion bottle / radiator to water pump (very difficult!), or do you do it with a series of bends and straight sections joined with 25mm beaded aluminium joiners?

 

Thanks, Marty

[kgwilson]

Cars usually have them specially made with all the appropriate bends in the one hose. This won't be the case for a homebuilt aircraft unless you have planned everything around the chosen radiator hose.

 Not my field of expertise but I'd think that you only need flexibility between the engine and fuselage and the rest could be an alloy pipe if there was a longish run.

[danny_galaga]

I would say the latter if it's going to be long sections, in my mind having metal joiners will give it some strength. On mine it's that way, but I think the main reason would have been that there is not much chance of finding a hose exactly the right length and shape 

[Marty_d]

6 minutes ago, kgwilson said:

 Not my field of expertise but I'd think that you only need flexibility between the engine and fuselage and the rest could be an alloy pipe if there was a longish run.

I notice Rotax installation manual says that long lengths of aluminium can be used as long as they're beaded and able to withstand the heat requirements.

 

One of these may be a worthwhile investment... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234544596821?hash=item369bf28755:g:G1UAAOSwA71kM7i2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwBk6yijGBkso46A%2F7NWNCE%2BEvxHTOaaxuiU%2BYrDFg6NxgqVJjnjwQRYAePrfWYiL48%2BIihSMf5v7WKgNuxfxs0Se1qEeLTeHK%2BicDC30rW0if9h6UZRr1EuKzqrn4zXNIN7%2Bso35FSdPWSOxBffIHTE6jilGS0jVoua7DLwd0mgjnhQqefgPTYRByeF5N2kzILztof7JRApbTF84kVawn7PbL%2BAN3lzf6QHc3FppfiyNeJqJornolhX%2Bz0hNeBp8Ew%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5jA4aqfYg

 

[facthunter]

That's what's done in Mid engine open wheeler race cars. Aluminium will take the temperature of the coolant. Nev

[onetrack]

The less joints you have in cooling systems, the better. It means a reduced chance of leaks or failures.

[danny_galaga]

7 minutes ago, onetrack said:

The less joints you have in cooling systems, the better. It means a reduced chance of leaks or failures.

Not much choice on the matter generally from what I can see. 

[facthunter]

The lengths of al tube reduce the Joints. I doubt it takes sharp bends easily though. Thin walled Stainless Tube might be an option. It can also have fittings silver soldered to it. safely.  Nev

[skippydiesel]

I have had one Rotax 912ULS aircraft that I fitted with Gemini radiators hose by Gates. They came pre bent/formed and needed trimming for length. If I remember correctly (always a concern) I had one Gemini length on one side and two on the other. On the two side, the hose was joined using a Gates radiator hose joiner - system worked well for me over near 900 hrs and 10 years.

 

As this is supposed to be a site for alternative fittings, I would share this tit bit from the Rotax Owners Forum - without any evidence, one contributor has claimed years of service from a John Deer voltage regulator. If you Google this you will see a number of quite substantial solid state regulators, under various part number, most of which look similar.

[skippydiesel]

Should have added to the above - submitter claims is JD voltage regulator cost about $40 US.

 

Please note the my tone of scepticism but never know it might just be a perfectly good regulator for a fraction of the Rotax price.

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, skippydiesel said:

Should have added to the above - submitter claims is JD voltage regulator cost about $40 US.

 

Please note the my tone of scepticism but never know it might just be a perfectly good regulator for a fraction of the Rotax price.

I actually wouldn't be surprised! Funnily enough I went for an aftermarket reg/rec that costs MORE than the Rotax one 😄 . It's supposed to be more reliable, and has one less wire, the way it should be so I figured it was worth it in the long run 🙂

[Marty_d]

The Rotax regulator is just a Ducati part anyway isn't it?

[skippydiesel]

45 minutes ago, Marty_d said:

The Rotax regulator is just a Ducati part anyway isn't it?

Supposedly. About 8 years ago, I needed to replace my regulator. Did the usual search for alternatives (inc Ducati) to the costly Rotax offering - 0! squeezed the stone and out came a bloody Rotax Reg. I tend to err on the side of caution and only purchase alternatives if they have the same part number/meet the same or better specifications. My technical understanding doesn't go deep enough to make choices outside this approach.

 

The person submitting the JD regulator, to Rotax Owners Forum, claimed it was a direct swop, down to the spade connector arrangement.

 

The Rotax Regulator PN 965349 is about $175US - if the submitter is on the ball with this, that's saving of around $134US

 Rotax

JD - one of many similar offerings

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, Marty_d said:

The Rotax regulator is just a Ducati part anyway isn't it?

That's what made me say 'that figures' when I heard they overheat 😄

 

Mine is Dutch. They make lots of replacement motorcycle regulators and rectifiers. Australian supplier:

 

vectriqparts.com.au

 

[onetrack]

This article may be of interest. It provides a wiring diagram, which is pretty necessary when you start playing with electrics.

 

http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/Standard Mods/SM12970 Rotax 91X Schicke GR6 Regulator.pdf

[skippydiesel]

Thermocouple's.

 

Check out westach.com. 

 

Seem to have a good range/reputation .

 

They also "do" other "stuff"

[kgwilson]

I'm not so sure. The only Westach instrument i installed is a Carburettor Temperture gauge. The probe stopped working after a couple of years and then the needle fell off the gauge making it entirely useless.