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Posted

Thinking of retrofitting a curtis drain valve to replace the drain plug in my 912 ULS's oil tank. Should make oil changes simpler and less messy. Has anyone done this and where best to obtain an aviation grade valve in Australia? Thanks everyone.

Posted

Look at the FUMOTO automotive drain valves online. I use these in all my cars, and have one to fit to my Jab 2200.

If I'm not mistaken, the one you want is 12mm x 1.75 - but do your own checking.

  • Informative 1
Posted

I've had a Saf-Air drain valve in my 912ULS oil tank for about 7 years. It worked very well but started leaking a few months ago, so I replaced it with a new one. It's leaking too - not impressed.

Does anyone else use Curtis, Fumoto or other brands in their aircraft and where did you get them from?

 

 

 

  • Informative 1
Posted

I can understand that an aircraft, using a Rotax 9 (or larger) & achieving high annual hours (say over 400) might benefit from such a devise but your average privately owned aircraft struggling to get to 100hr/annum.????

 

If you go by Rotax recommended oil change intervals (ULP), this is one change per annum. Even if your a obsessive personality like me this is only 2  x 50 hrs changer per annum. The addition of a quick drain to save a few moments (probably less than 2-3 minutes/oil change) will:

  • drain your wallet
  • add weight
  • increase complexity 
  • introduce a potential failure point

 

Your choice of course but I wouldn't fit one to a mower, unless I was doing weekly oil changes.

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1
Posted
2 hours ago, rgmwa said:

I've had a Saf-Air drain valve in my 912ULS oil tank for about 7 years. It worked very well but started leaking a few months ago, so I replaced it with a new one. It's leaking too - not impressed.

Does anyone else use Curtis, Fumoto or other brands in their aircraft and where did you get them from?

 

 

 

https://www.oilvalve.com.au/

They are a ball valve with a locking lever.

Posted
1 hour ago, skippydiesel said:

I can understand that an aircraft, using a Rotax 9 (or larger) & achieving high annual hours (say over 400) might benefit from such a devise but your average privately owned aircraft struggling to get to 100hr/annum.????

 

If you go by Rotax recommended oil change intervals (ULP), this is one change per annum. Even if your a obsessive personality like me this is only 2  x 50 hrs changer per annum. The addition of a quick drain to save a few moments (probably less than 2-3 minutes/oil change) will:

  • drain your wallet
  • add weight
  • increase complexity 
  • introduce a potential failure point

 

Your choice of course but I wouldn't fit one to a mower, unless I was doing weekly oil changes.

Yeah, I think you're right.

Posted

I have a brand new valve, it was with the kit.  Don't like the fact could / will develop a leak so never fitted it.  It's in my parts box; would not bother fitting one myself.  Better in my opinion to use two spanners and new crush washer. Not much time saving really at end of day.  I respect other's opinion on the matter though.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have one of those valves on my motorhome.

No mess when changing oil, as apposed to getting oil everywhere and dropping the bolt into the oil container, I'm talking 10Lts bit more than the average airplane sump.

Bernie.

  • Informative 1
Posted

50 hour oil change ! .

My half VW is TEN hours.  But a four container of oil lasts forever.  LoL

OR 60 litres of " mogas " per oil change .

Expensive. 

spacesailor

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Sucking it out of the top would be best and safest. Weight and a ball and spring is not that safe.  Nev

  • Like 2
Posted

To all those who took the time to respond. My thanks to you all. Appreciate all your points. On reflection, I will probably stay with the threaded plug, given the infrequency of oil changes.

  • Like 2
  • Agree 1
Posted

One from I .

The " Curtis gascolator fuel drain valve " .

Can the tiny " O'ring "  be replaced ? .

spacesailor

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