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Posted
1 hour ago, facthunter said:

Approval of an engine usually has the installation as part of it. Certainly the case with VH  (and LSA?)  Not including the installation Makes no sense.   Nev

Yes, it’s the engine, the airframe and how it is all put together. I limited my initial question because a) it was the engine that I was not confident about, and b) at that stage I didn’t realise the scope of the issue. Now I know… 🙂

  • Like 1
Posted

So !.

Such a little thing as changing the " fuel collator drain valve " to a "  none " tso'd cheaper or available type , Will void your " aircraft " approval.  Only for your insurance .

( I have been trying to get a replacement "  Curtis 1/ 8" N P taper " ) .

spacesailor

Posted
On 7/12/2023 at 2:17 PM, RFguy said:

Had a useful and constructive meeting with RAaus today.

Don’t tease us - are you at liberty to share the conversation, or at least the outcome ?

Posted

mmm a couple of things

1) on points of fault  / incident reporting.  seems the biggest reason for not getting fault/ error reporting is people thinking someone will get in trouble or it will adversely affect them  for whatever reason. Need to figure out a way to change that mindset to the right sort of no blame/ no fault. Of  course- no blame no fault cant be unbounded - so that's the sticky bit. I've heard of two Jabiru  oil filters splitting, (could be the high pulsing PRV or could be mfr defect or steel too light or ????? ----but they have not heard of this- this is an example  of owner/operator  reporting defficiencies. 

 

2) With regards to the meat of the discussion, my concerns with a certain manufacturer's behaviour - there has been an ownership change , and broadly issues I have raised as a company culture problem will get addressed, but it wont be overnight.

-glen

 

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Posted
23 hours ago, spacesailor said:

So !.

Such a little thing as changing the " fuel collator drain valve " to a "  none " tso'd cheaper or available type , Will void your " aircraft " approval.  Only for your insurance .

( I have been trying to get a replacement "  Curtis 1/ 8" N P taper " ) .

spacesailor

Resized_sc_2496_4462.thumb.jpeg.5a2d932454cb6b9ae11af9378a4fc4d0.jpeg

 

Superior Air Parts at Archerfield has them.

Posted

He's not, just advising a replacement. And yes I have a curtis fuel drain valve. I have replaced the o-ring 2 times in 8 years. These things are pretty much bullet proof.

  • Informative 1
Posted

There you go

After buying Two " Curtis N,P.Taper valves!.

only to receive " N.P.Straight valves. 

The first returned but no postage . Gets expensive .

The second one doesn't return my messages .

So I will try " Skyshop " . Why don't they use English : Taper or Straight .: instead of ,

Curtis N,P,T, 1550 .

" Such is life " 

spacesailor

 

  • Like 3
Posted

IF the part is shown the straight one has to have enough shoulder to have a sealing washer to contact it. The taper thread is visibly obvious also.  Nev

Posted

NOT that visible. 

20231210_131338.thumb.jpg.e4f84dceb11bacc78ee8d633e2c7d9a4.jpg

Was going to return it but they never answered my email .

So have to wear it.

spacesailor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, spacesailor said:

NOT that visible. 

20231210_131338.thumb.jpg.e4f84dceb11bacc78ee8d633e2c7d9a4.jpg

Was going to return it but they never answered my email .

So have to wear it.

spacesailor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just swap the Oring to your old one. 

Posted

But how do you get the  o ring

off .

So  ! . Not fit for purpose . Therefore I should have a refund or replacement. 

Then , that postage cost , wipes out most of the refund .

spacesailorl

Posted

Simple. Remove the valve. Push and twist the spring loaded shut off valve so the bar sits in the open position seat, remove O ring & fit a new one, flick the bar back & it closes.

Posted

But ! , That 'simple ' remove the Oring, is hard , to get a grip on it .

Can a ' pin ( needle ) be used to get under the rubber ring .

Without damage .

Then were, to buy a new " Oring " .as it has to be petrol proof. 

spacesailor

Posted

Wooden toothpick then. Have clean hands and "pinch" a rise in the "O" ring and raise it with the thick end of the toothpick and ease it off.  Auto spares shops should have various sized O rings Nev

  • Winner 1
Posted (edited)

You can also purchase a set of handy awl type O ring removing tools :

 

These are $17 on eBay - very handy

 

image.png.801cfecd300b351486cf0eba0fb678f4.png

Edited by skippydiesel
  • Agree 1
Posted

I used a ' crochet ' hook !, & found the Oring was split . Now I know why it keeps a steady drip .

spacesailor

Posted

Good grief. You don't need any tools. Cut the old one off & roll the new one on.

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  • Informative 1
Posted

Sounds like ' you're a surgeon '

This Oring is SO tiny 6 mm OD . Maybe 3 mm ID. & 1 & a bit  thick .

spacesailor

 

  • Informative 1

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