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Posted

Some time back someone was making these in Australia, please reply if any one can help out

Posted
58 minutes ago, facthunter said:

I wouldn't recommend anything that returns  blowby products to the engine oil.  Nev

If the question is about an engine crankcase breather oil separator I agree with Nev  - Why would you put contaminated oil back into the crankcase?

 

The gaseous/vapour component (left after separation) is perfectly safe to be routed into the air intake, for consumption in the combustion process.

Posted

I wouldn't do that either on an aeroplane. In Cars it's done with a ventilated engine which has through flow filtered air.  I've never seen that on an aero engine..  Nev

Posted

Jabiru sell one bolts straight on . I have made them but if you are paying for materials and labour the jabiru genuine is cheaper. You still need the catch can for water and sludge but the oil senates and drains back reduces the need to top up so often

Posted

Usually it's overfull. if it does that. You don't want ANY contaminants in your oil that you can avoid. One Gallon of Petrol makes more than one gallon of water. Mixed with other blow by products it forms ACIDS. Nev

  • Like 1
Posted

If you say so. !! The temperatures that the jab operates at and the position of the separator ,allows for water to evaporate off and oil to drain back been that way for ME for 5 years but if there is anyone with first had PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE on a jab over a longer period I would love to know about it

Posted

You are suggesting I have NO practical experience? That's your privilege. You CAN do what YOU like. There's been heaps of comment on this applied to many aero motors and a Jabiru is much like any other engine except it has a Lousy breather and more blowby than most engines for reasons we all know. Cylinder distortion and large (and necessary) piston  clearances. . There are others I wish to tell of this even of you don't believe it.   Nev

Posted

NOT SO but where is  YOUR  Jabiru PRACTICAL experience coming from, infact if aero engines don’t do it where is your knowledge base for the detrimental effects on AERO engine engines. I don’t doubt it’s effects but since we deal in facts where’s the DATA to discredit the effects.

Posted

A LIFETIME of working on and building and modifying engines of many kinds, Paul. When I'm amongst very knowledgeable people I have NO arguments at all on these matters. Isn't that strange ? I was VERY across Jabiru about 20 years ago but there's no way one can have a sensible discussion about them on line because it's like Holden Ford with "there be Demons out there" stuff.. . IF you want to stuff a motor up  run it cold or let water trickle back into the motor from a badly designed breather. I did NOT say aero  engines don't do it but covered why the Jabiru is a bit worse. Water makes sludge and causes corrosion and ring binding in the ring lands of many motors, which I've stripped myself and/or seen stripped... I don't really GET what you are asking for. I can't see anything positive I can say. I doubt you are in a listening mood and the last thing I wanted is a stouch. with you  Nev

Posted

NOT SO but where is  YOUR  Jabiru PRACTICAL experience coming from, infact if aero engines don’t do it where is your knowledge base for the detrimental effects on AERO engine engines. I don’t doubt it’s effects but since we deal in facts where’s the DATA to discredit the effects.

Posted

ON the Contrary JUST asking WHERE you get this EVIDENCE BASED information.  Here SAY and some ones OPINION doesn’t quite qualify as scientific evidence .  

Posted

My statements are NOT based on heresay let me assure you of that. There's no point continuing this. It Pisses other's off as well as myself..  Nev

Posted

He is but in my opinion he is also correct - why on earth would you want to put contaminates back into your crankcase oil?

Posted

And that is your opinion. It’s not the opinion of every automotive engine manufacturer and let’s be honest the car engines of today cop far less maintenance than aero engines.   All I am asking is where is the documented proof to the contrary on aero engines. Please don’t be offended when honest questions are asked and only people’s opinions  are given as evidence 

Posted

Yes I once was told in a CRM Course that was a four day.  live in thing that "I don't suffer fools Gladly" after doing a psych test. Perhaps I should change my avatar from "never stop learning" to the course comment.  I'm committed to safety and FACTS Not PISSing contests.   You have worked quite hard to wind me up Paul so don't sell yourself short.  The off topic is for the non fair dinkum stuff.. I've got a short fuse where safety is involved. I've had too many of my mates die in aeroplanes since I started in 1959. and too many near death experiences where crap work and over casual maintenance was involved.  Nev

Posted

Paul, the following discussion is worthy of a read - including the links in the thread. The article is a GA oriented article, but the basics are applicable to all aircraft engines.

 

https://www.euroga.org/forums/oil-separator-which-model-to-buy-and-are-they-really-bad-and-if-so-exactly-why/7954?page=1

 

I have little doubt that Facthunters advice is correct. The only guaranteed way to remove water and condensation from oil is via heating to 100°C, or by utilising a centrifugal oil separator with a removable paper element.

The centrifugal oil separators are a very popular addition to the large ships engines, and they're very effective.

  • Agree 2
Posted

Modern engines get to operating temps in record times these days and that's a deliberate design thing and many go into limp mode if they don't get a fast run occasionally. Short run vehicles get more frequent oil changes to try to compensate. All oil companies and vehicle manufacturers say similar. I'm in line with what every  maker and oil company says. A failed (to open) thermostat will ruin a motor in less than a year. What's this documented proof needed to the contrary on aero engines coming from. I've seen "Milky" oil in a few of them and they are likely to Have spoiled camshafts and followers and why the PLUS additive is in some aero oils.  Nev

Posted

Thanks for the article. One would have thought that putting the vapour separator on top of a very hot motor the same effect might have been achieved

  • Informative 1
Posted

Let’s not be economical with the truth here. Cars don’t go  limp home mode because the oil doesn’t get hot enough, (otherwise all my retired clients would be having that problem) . A failed to open thermostat is likely to go into limp mode  or check engine light on.  Not sure what motors you are talking about but to the best of my knowledge only the diesels (sold and serviced Mazdas up till 2 years ago) were prone to giving a check engine light  if they weren’t given a good long drive but mainly because the DPF tended to block up. 

Posted
33 minutes ago, Paul davenport said:

And that is your opinion. It’s not the opinion of every automotive engine manufacturer and let’s be honest the car engines of today cop far less maintenance than aero engines.   All I am asking is where is the documented proof to the contrary on aero engines. Please don’t be offended when honest questions are asked and only people’s opinions  are given as evidence 

Correction - Every auto maker of today does not put the crankcase vapours back into the crankcase oil  - they route them into the inlet manifold/system, to be burnt in the combustion process.

Posted

I didn't tie it in with the thermostat function. Just short trips in general. Yes it's to do with the particulate filter. Will you  STOP your insults here. I'm not on trial or am I guilty of SOMETHING I have yet to determine and  have to PROVE to you." Economical with the truth means LYING" which I deny. Knock it OFF will you. Nev

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