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Posted

Has anybody had first hand experience using Loctite 574 sealing crankcase halves? What were the long term results?
 

Doesn't have to be Rotax engines; any engine type is relative; motorcycle, porsche etc...

 

Thanks..

Posted

Haven't used 574 but this one is the old Aviation 4 gasket goo,MR GC4 which is the hard setting type,meaning no flex at the joint.

It's important to use the correct gasket maker for the particular joint.Hopefully an Engineer chimes in here?

Posted

Thanks; Permatex has been around and used for decades; quite familiar with it.

Posted

I still have " RR Gasket " maker .

Originally used on aviation in the war , so didn't need a long life .

It worked on all  the cars I owned & maintained . Usually coat one side of my home made paper Gasket,  to hold it were placed, & occasionally without any paper Gasket. 

If " Loctite 574 is as good ! , then it's worth using .

As an aside a ' car maker' has thrown away all " spring & flat washers " just uses Loctite .

spacesailor

Posted

Some Sealants come in Hardening and non-hardening. Loctite generally has a good name in the game.  Nev

Posted

1211 Threebond,

its what we use on all the 2 stroke jetski motors,

 

I know Ducati uses Threebond 1215 instead traditional gaskets in all their modern motors.

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  • Agree 1
Posted

Way back I used Yamabond but there are better now. A motor I dismantled recently used something like what was being used on Jabirus. It was almost impossible to get it apart. You don't NEED that. I go back to Gasket Goo and you never forget it's smell. Rotax use Loctite a lot and reckon you should Run a tap through to clean the threads out. I WOULDN'T recommend that as it will often enlarge the thread. and that weakens it.  Nev

Posted

i would stick to what rotax uses. hate to have to split a crankcase a second time.

Posted

after more than 60 years putting engines together I will ONLY use Yamaha Threebond ( I believe all Threebonds are the same) painty it on both surfaces, let it "go off" for 15minutes or so. No leaks, Ever.   Loctite Master Gasket has failed me more than once. Never again. (Goes very hard and flakes off separated surfaces)

Cheers.. G

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  • Informative 1
Posted
2 hours ago, onetrack said:

Loctite 518 is actually a superior product to Loctite 574 in the case of sealing crankcase halves. You can compare the two products - including the TDS's - on the Henkel-Loctite site.

 

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au/en/product/gasketing-sealants/loctite_5180.html

 

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/cn/en/product/gasketing-sealants/loctite_5740.html

Thanks already done that; 574 reads as the better performer over 518 for use on alloy components and petrol exposure, ie oil contamination from compression blow by

  • Informative 1
Posted

Ah - no, but...

 

As far as I know, hardening gasket compounds are verboten in GA (they certainly used to be!), because of the risk of a blob getting free and blocking an oil gallery down the track; "Aviation Form-A Gasket" (non-setting tarry goo) and fibre gaskets, and a lot of swearing, were/are the traditional approach. I don't know a way to wipe off squeezeout from the inside of an assembled crankcase...

 

That said, I've had very satisfactory results on car engines, with Permatex products, by cleaning scrupulously, and allowing the sculpted poop to cure before final assembly.

Posted

Loctite 518 doesn't form globs, any excess protruding from the joined surfaces dissolves on contact with oil, and Loctite 518 retains a level of flexibility when set. Henkel describe Loctite 518 as "semi-flexible".

  • Informative 1
Posted

in the link i posted for the exp aviation channel episode the other day.  mike patey described an engine failure he had straight after a service. the mechanic used sealant and a drop went into the oil galleries . i forget what brand he said it was.

  • Informative 1
Posted

The silicone-based sealants are notorious for forming globs on the outside of the seal surface, that break off and block oilways. A mate had a Cat engine in his truck grab a piston in the bore. The repair crowd replaced the piston and liner, and 3 weeks later, it grabbed again. Second time, he gave it to another repairer, who found a glob of RTV blocking the piston-cooling oil jet. He cleaned the engine out properly, replaced the piston and liner again, and it gave no more trouble.

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