Happy New year for 2025

[Moneybox]

18 minutes ago, facthunter said:

IF you need them something is wrong with your planning unless you  did it deliberately and then you could expect to pay for the privilege of it working. It would have to be checked regularly by someone qualified and guaranteed to do it.  It would have to be 100% reliable. Maybe even have a backup.   Nev

 The RFDS land once in a while and are exempt of some fees. The closest airports are Mount Magnet 85km S and Meekatharra 120km N. The Dash-8 planes are regular dropping and picking up fly-in fly-out miners adding to the shire coffers. Both those would require airstrip lighting.

[facthunter]

Of Course. You  PLAN on that being available, or no night ops.  Nev

[Moneybox]

I was pleasantly surprised when my 30mm SS exhaust tube and flex turned up in the post this morning.

 

 

Now I think I have clearance to remove the oil filter too. How could they produce a fault like that and continue to manufacture it until a couple of years later they come out with a new exhaust system. That hose on the radiator comes too close when its in place (another bulletin) so I have some tubular insulation on the way for that as well.

[Blueadventures]

1 hour ago, Moneybox said:

I was pleasantly surprised when my 30mm SS exhaust tube and flex turned up in the post this morning.

 

 

Now I think I have clearance to remove the oil filter too. How could they produce a fault like that and continue to manufacture it until a couple of years later they come out with a new exhaust system. That hose on the radiator comes too close when its in place (another bulletin) so I have some tubular insulation on the way for that as well.

Depends on when you do your filter; I change oil at 50 and filter at 100. At 100 also lube the muffler to header ball joints on mine so if you have ball joint type connections you may consider relubeing them at 100 with the specified lube. Mine is S/S so use Koppa Kote / Copper slip lube. Steel Rotax require one of the nickle anti seizes.

 

have you had the magnetic plug out, it has a torx female and they can be a real pain and then you need to buy the upgrade hex head one a 16mm / 5/8” ring spanner fits.

Edited Wednesday at 12:02 PM by Blueadventures

[Moneybox]

17 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

Depends on when you do your filter; I change oil at 50 and filter at 100. At 100 also lube the muffler to header ball joints on mine so if you have ball joint type connections you may consider relubeing them at 100 with the specified lube. Mine is S/S so use Koppa Kote / Copper slip lube. Steel Rotax require one of the nickle anti seizes.

 

have you had the magnetic plug out, it has a torx female and they can be a real pain and then you need to buy the upgrade hex head one a 16mm / 5/8” ring spanner fits.

 

No I've not removed that. You suggest I do it now while I have easy access?

[Blueadventures]

31 minutes ago, Moneybox said:

 

No I've not removed that. You suggest I do it now while I have easy access?

Yes I would, two reasons one to see any fur, filing on it and to know it can be undone. It’s a torx drive not Allen key. If it’s hard to undo try some hammer taps and vice grips to loosen. There no washer or copper washer under it just a metal to metal fit. Cheers

[Moneybox]

Yes obviously a problem.

 

http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/expanded-video-instructions/295-magplug 

 

I'll sort it out tomorrow.

[facthunter]

Valuable to indicate wear is happening.. You shouldn't have difficulty if it's not overtightened That type is in pretty common use these days. Nev

[Blueadventures]

9 hours ago, Moneybox said:

Yes obviously a problem.

 

http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/expanded-video-instructions/295-magplug 

 

I'll sort it out tomorrow.

That is about inspection of it; do a google of 'unable to remove magnetic plug' and rotax owner will have some methods of removal.  I came across a stubborn one before Xmas while doing an oil change.  Owner is getting a new mag plug hex head from floods and then the old one will be removed and inspected and the new one fitted.  I hope for you that yours is free it takes a #40 Torx and make sure its fully in when turning as they strip out easily and that's why Rotax upgraded the plug.

[facthunter]

 Best way to loosen them is to get a Brass drift with good flat ends and give it one good hit/tap straight on with an engineers hammer..  Most people over tighten these things,.  (Butchers)  Nev

[onetrack]

I don't understand the logic of not using a washer on the sump plug. A sealing washer (either copper or nylon) is designed to accommodate imperfections in the mating surfaces - and it also makes removal easier.

Any sump plug installed without a sealing washer will run into the problem of the plug becoming locked onto the sump.

 

I've owned multiple hundreds of engines of all types, makes and applications, and never had a sump plug come undone yet - in 59 years of owning and operation of engines.

The only instances I know where a sump plug came undone with engine vibration, was where the person who installed it, forgot to tighten it properly.

[facthunter]

Metal to metal is better IF it's tapered. at the seat.. Spark plugs have a single use compressible sealing washer with a torque figure. "Trapped" "O" rings are OK Don't require much torque and can't move  and fail.. It has to be fail safe..  Nev

[Moneybox]

I'll get to it shortly. 43° forecast today so I'm busy getting some welding done on the carport before I reach meltdown. I've been looking at the Rotax site and most seem to fit a coper washer even though it's not allowed. The plug is wired anyway so even if it was to loosen it would never come undone.

[facthunter]

Never use fibre It can crack.  Having nothing is quite safe. It's aluminium you are  seating on. (As long as the thread is true to the shoulder and that's easily checked).   Nev

[Moneybox]

Ok I've looked at that.

 

 

The reason they strip is that it's a lousy Torx with no grip.

 

 

When you tap the Torx key in it deepens to grooves and gives you a bit better chance of loosening it.

 

 

It's a bit furry but looks worse than it really is, nothing like 3mm which is the limit.

 

 

There are no lumpy bits. It was just like a paste so I'm not concerned about that. We'll see next time 😉

 

And guys, I'd appreciate all those instructions before I fit the exhaust 🤣

[Moneybox]

2 minutes ago, Moneybox said:

Double post....

 

Edited yesterday at 01:10 AM by Moneybox

[Blueadventures]

8 minutes ago, Moneybox said:

Ok I've looked at that.

 

 

The reason they strip is that it's a lousy Torx with no grip.

 

 

When you tap the Torx key in it deepens to grooves and gives you a bit better chance of loosening it.

 

 

It's a bit furry but looks worse than it really is, nothing like 3mm which is the limit.

 

 

There are no lumpy bits. It was just like a paste so I'm not concerned about that. We'll see next time 😉

 

And guys, I'd appreciate all those instructions before I fit the exhaust 🤣

Well done, may never have been taken out.  May be do an oil change at 15 - 20 hours and recheck plug then.  Glad it came out for you.  I've never put a copper washer under them or seen such. Cheers.

[facthunter]

I would not like to see it keep shedding steel. Keep checking it. The oil is doing a big job in there. Nev

[Moneybox]

12 minutes ago, facthunter said:

I would not like to see it keep shedding steel. Keep checking it. The oil is doing a big job in there. Nev

 

Any magnetic plug will collect fine particles over time and I have no idea how long its been there. The paper from the oil filter was clean, not a fragment of metal or anything else I could see. Some of these engines had a faulty propeller shaft that would shed metal. This one is not amongst those serial numbers so I'm happy to wait for the next inspection after its done some work.

 

I didn't fit a washer, nor did I over tighten it.

Edited yesterday at 02:10 AM by Moneybox

[facthunter]

They only collect steel Particles. It should not keep happening .  The magnets are good as indicators of WEAR of CERTAIN parts. and also remove the particles from circulation Nev

[skippydiesel]

4 hours ago, Moneybox said:

I'll get to it shortly. 43° forecast today so I'm busy getting some welding done on the carport before I reach meltdown. I've been looking at the Rotax site and most seem to fit a coper washer even though it's not allowed. The plug is wired anyway so even if it was to loosen it would never come undone.

I have used the same size copper crush washer, as used on the oil tank drain, perfect fit, on my last & this new 912ULS. May not be required but satisfies my mechanical urges and will do no harm. I agree that the washer is not required to make a oil tight seal, however having the crush washer means you don't have to tighten the magnetic plug to the recommended torque - makes it nice & easy to remove/inspect, at your 100 hr service or earlier if you wish.

 

On removing the old hex socket style magnet plug - I did this on my last engine. Be sure to have the new style ready to put in, as you will likly trash the old one. From imperfect memory, I employed all the "tricks' mentioned above, to get the darn thing out - in the end it was careful use of a cold chisel that cracked the seal (if it had had a copper crush washer it would not have been a problem).

[facthunter]

Maybe,.  Used copper washers go hard  and they Have to fit the "stem" snugly so as to sit in the same position laterally or it may not seal well. New exactly correct one each time? Nev

[Red]

On 22/01/2025 at 10:59 AM, Moneybox said:

I was pleasantly surprised when my 30mm SS exhaust tube and flex turned up in the post this morning.

 

 

Now I think I have clearance to remove the oil filter too. How could they produce a fault like that and continue to manufacture it until a couple of years later they come out with a new exhaust system. That hose on the radiator comes too close when its in place (another bulletin) so I have some tubular insulation on the way for that as well.

MB, that looks like a very old type of Rotax filter that was changed many years ago to a slightly taller type..check it

825016 Is the current part number (Replaces 825012)

 

 

Edited 22 hours ago by Red

[Moneybox]

1 hour ago, Red said:

MB, that looks like a very old type of Rotax filter that was changed many years ago to a slightly taller type..check it

825016 Is the current part number (Replaces 825012)

 

 

 

Recently purchased from Bert Flood. I'll take a look in the morning.

Just took a look at the invoice. I got two x 825016. Perhaps it's just the extra clearance I've given it with the remodeled exhaust pipe on No.2. I shouldn't have to move the pipe next oil change.

Edited 21 hours ago by Moneybox

[Moneybox]

The filter looks a bit grubby but that's because I gave everything a good coat of ACF50 to help with things like that hose clamp on the filter. It mightn't look good but everything has an oily film that will probably give it a bit of corrosion protection.