Rotax 582 single cylinder firing!

[Guest Daza76]

Hi All,

 

I was just running my Rotax 582 engine (fitted in an edge trike) and upon doing an ignition check, noticed that one switch did not drop the revs as usual and the second switch cut the engine, in other words it seems that the engine is running on a single ignition circuit only.

 

I went through the usual troubleshooting (including changing all plugs) but still cannot get the second cylinder firing. NOTE: I pulled the plugs off the cylinder that isn't firing and the engine runs the same as when they are connected...

 

Any suggestions before I am forced to hand it over to an autoelectrician?

 

thanks guys.

 

Darren

 

 

[ozzietriker]

Hi Darren,

 

Well it just so happens to be that my friend had this identical problem as you with his 582 (installed to a trike also). One of your ignition circuits is simply not working in this instance as you diagnosed yourself with removing the leads of one side.

 

The 1st thing we checked was the ignition switches for possible buildup of moisture and resistance inside by using a multi-meter & physically checking the wiring connections to the switches (need to pull the foam sleeve off to get access) but they were sound also, so all was good there.

 

Then we ended up swapping the two electronic ignition units around, re-started the engine and the fault subsequently transferred to the other switch, bingo! so the failure was one of the electronic ignition units. He bought a new one from Bert Floods for $180 and back in business!

 

If this does not fix your problem then it could be caused by a malfunction of the

 

trigger coil inside the engine crankcase. This trigger coil picks up signals from the flywheel which fire the ignition circuit via the electronic ignition unit and is more fiddly to get to.

 

Let me know how it goes!

 

regards

 

Dennis

 

 

[facthunter]

Procedure.

 

The cause is probably a dead unit, and swapping them is the best test, in the absence of any other idea. I would suggest that you never remove the leads (ie open circuit) the coils as this can destroy them. all those ergs have to go somewhere and it is often an internal track that finishes the coil off. Nev..

 

 

[Guest Daza76]

To make matters more interesting!

 

Hi Dennis/Nev,

 

Thank you both for your input. :thumb_up:

 

To make things more interesting, I fired the engine up again today to have another troubleshooting session and would you believe the ignition circuit that was totally not running, now runs, albeit quite rough and it drops the revs by about 200-300 or so, still not ideal but much better than it did a few days ago, I guess that almost clears the electronic control unit as the culprit (correct me if I am wrong).

 

I can't help but think the circuit has water damage or something that healed slightly over the last few days and am going to try running it up tomorrow for a good 20 mins or so to see if it rights itself.

 

NOTE: the slight improvement is still not enough to comfortably fly the trike so until I come up with a certain diagnosis, it won't be leaving the ground! I need to trust this thing 100%...

 

So my question is, has anybody experienced similar? does the fact that the ignition is now working narrow the possible cause?

 

Please let me know if you have any further thoughts.

 

cheers,

 

Darren

 

 

[facthunter]

Intermittent spark.

 

The obvious thing, undo, clean and check all connections, and test HT leads for continuity. There may be moisture in the coil, and as I mentioned open circuiting the secondary will cause it to find an alternate path internally so if that has occurred it is all over for that coil. Check the ignition switch and go so far as to disconnect it, to eliminate it as a possible source of trouble. Nev..

 

 

[Guest Maj Millard]

Gotcha covered !!... just had the same probs on a 650hr 582 that has always run fine. Also did the checks you describe, with the same results. It seems to be a bit intermittant, and I actually went for a fly and did a mag check in the air (quickly and carefully). Then talked to Wal at B Floods and he suggested a "lazy stator" which is exactly what it turned out to be. Just put in a new stator on the weekend and mag drops normal again. I knew as soon as I fired it up, that I had fixed the prob as the engine just started and sounded much better. New stator was about 350 delivered and the new ones have anti vibration stuff all over them, so could be better for the long run ?. You will need the following to do the job: Large socket for flywheel nut (24 or 28 mm from memory), locking pin for engine, 3 arm puller (a must),something to put a little bit of heat onto the flywheel once you have the puller in place, Locktite for putting it all back with plus basic sockets etc. Once the stator is free from the engine, you need to remove it by pulling the wires through the case, remove the black rubber grommet to do this, but don't forget to but it back. You may also need a couple of blade type terminals to change on the yellow cables as Rotax has changed to the round type push ins. Good luck.

 

 

[skeptic36]

Hi All,I was just running my Rotax 582 engine (fitted in an edge trike) and upon doing an ignition check, noticed that one switch did not drop the revs as usual and the second switch cut the engine, in other words it seems that the engine is running on a single ignition circuit only.

I went through the usual troubleshooting (including changing all plugs) but still cannot get the second cylinder firing. NOTE: I pulled the plugs off the cylinder that isn't firing and the engine runs the same as when they are connected...

 

Any suggestions before I am forced to hand it over to an autoelectrician?

 

thanks guys.

 

Darren

Hi Darren,

 

I am wondering if you didn't quite write the above as you intended, because one circuit failing should not shut down one cylinder. I can't understand why turning off one mag circuit shuts her down but pulling the plug leads off one cylinder has no effect. But I'm no expert :confused:, perhaps someone who is might comment :big_grin:

 

Regards Bill

 

 

[Guest ozzie]

I belive that he does not understand how his dual ign system works.

 

You have two totally seperate ign systems on your engine. one ign module does not supply one cylinder it supplies one spark plug in EACH cylinder. if one module fails as in your case the engine will continue to run but with a small drop in performance. when you now check your "mags" for function when you do your engine run up ou will turn off the now dead ign and will recieve no drop in rpm, then when you check the other the engine wil now stop.

 

OK

 

Ozzie