derekliston Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 I have the battery mounted on the firewall shelf in the engine bay. Sealed type, mounted on it's side. Keeps wiring short and hence weight down. 1
derekliston Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 Mine is 263kgs at the moment trying to do the CofG so l can put the battery in the right place ,l have 72 inch two blade IVO prop with inflight adjustable pitch . Don't forget aircraft is weighed with oil in the engine plus unusable fuel so if you don't have those yet your weight will increase a little.
skyfox1 Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 The engine is oiled up and water their is 8lts fuel in the header tank but no fuel in the wing tanks .
derekliston Posted July 15, 2016 Posted July 15, 2016 Finally flew again today. Rudder too stiff and slight tendency to roll left but otherwise lovely little machine! 1
JG3 Posted July 15, 2016 Posted July 15, 2016 Check those little slots at the tail where the rudder cables exit the fuselage. If the cables have to do a little joggle through there then they'll bind when there's pressure on both rudder pedals as in flight, especially with the tensions of the first flight. On the ground pressing each rudder pedal separately they will run free. When Hans did his first flight in his 701 he must have been leaning heavily on both rudder pedals and the rudder was binding such that it would go suddenly full defection one way then the other, and with that very powerful rudder on the 701 the result was alarming! I was trying to video the t/o and had to hit the deck to keep from being scalped. He very nearly lost his aircraft on the first flight...... Those slots were the cause. Extending those slots with a small chainsaw file fixed it. JG 1
jetboy Posted July 16, 2016 Posted July 16, 2016 Rudder is usually stiff due to the centering blocks / bearing of the nosewheel You can add PTFE lube and / or smooth down the centering vee also the cable tension depends upon the nosewheel position so best set with nose clear of ground (tightest point) Left roll is most likely a normal effect of the elevator bellcrank being offset on the control rod Holding the stick left loosens both elevator cables, holding it right tightens them It is possible to reduce this by arranging the elevator cable separation bungee cord to tug the appropriate cable sideways A more direct method might be adding a bungee at the bellcrank I just got used to it......others have redesigned the whole bellcrank onto a stationary bearing
derekliston Posted July 17, 2016 Posted July 17, 2016 Thanks for all advice. My aileron torque tube and elevator horns are separate. I have sorted out the rudder cable slots in the rear fuselage previously, so problem not there. I think I have the rudder cable tensions too high and the centre bearing on the rudder tubes is also very tight. Hopefully sort it all out tomorrow.
skyfox1 Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 Hi Derek what did your nose wheel weights come out as just want to compare . Cheers Geoff
derekliston Posted July 21, 2016 Posted July 21, 2016 Hi Derek what did your nose wheel weights come out as just want to compare . Cheers Geoff Don't know I'm sorry. My weight and balance was done by Alan Parsons and the individual wheel weights are not listed.
eightyknots Posted October 26, 2016 Author Posted October 26, 2016 It is progressing.... s l o w l y... Got an hour yesterday to rivet up the last 2 flaperon skeletons, so another couple of hours and they should be done. That's great to hear Marty. Keep up the good work! 1
derekliston Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 For what it is worth, it is a lovely little aeroplane to fly now that I seem to be able to land it! Visibility is fantastic! 1
Marty_d Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 One of these years!! Just spent another 2.5 hours on the flaperons... I got the skeletons done the other day and thought "only a couple more hours and these'll be done", well that was about 10 hours ago. I'm thinking of starting a build log here, in the style of HITC (but obviously much slower). I have a page on the zenith.aero site but I never update it these days - I spend all my computer time here! 1
derekliston Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I might possibly, reluctantly, sell my CH701. Hardest decision I have not yet made. Jabiru 2200 engine with about 15 hrs since factory overhaul to zero time. 10 inch Dynon Skyview panel, two radios, transponder and ADSB. Currently GA registered and not yet flown off the test hours. I'd be looking for 50k no offers, I think it is worth all of that. Just interested to hear if there is any interest out there. As a retiree, it is an expense that I'm not sure I can continue to afford.
Marty_d Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 That'd be a shame Derek. Hope you find a way to hang on to it.
derekliston Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 That'd be a shame Derek. Hope you find a way to hang on to it. Contemplating switching to RAAus. Have a talk to Trevor Bange when he gets back to see what is involved. I still have a pile of test flight cards about an inch thick to fill in for SAAA. If I'd known I would have that I wouldn't have built it. If I'd built it Recreational would I still have that to do? Also need to find out about medical when I have a stent fitted. Gets expensive annual medical and stress echo for CASA. 1
Kyle Communications Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Drivers licence medical is fine for RAAA no class 2 crap to deal with. You will have a yearly rego fee for the aircraft. Its a lot easier...I remember asking you back when you were building it why you went down the GA road Mark 1
derekliston Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I remember that Mark, I said I already had a GA licence and it seemed easier. I had enquired as far as I could about changing over and it appeared that I couldn't cross straight over with cross country and passenger carrying which obviously I already had with the open GA licence. This may or may not have been correct but at the time I had trouble contacting anyone for answers. Another question I have is how much testing and paperwork do I have to do before I can fly cross country and carrying a passenger because I literally have an inch thick pile of cards which I am supposed to fill in before they will give me the final CofA. I just wanted/want to fly, I am not interested in spending my time doing flight testing, particularly as it is an 80kt aircraft of which there are more than a few examples flying in Australia. Any assistance you can give in answering any of this will be greatly appreciated. I really don't want to sell, at least not for a while but I am becoming extremely frustrated with the whole thing. It really is a beautiful little thing to fly! Drivers licence medical is fine for RAAA no class 2 crap to deal with. You will have a yearly rego fee for the aircraft. Its a lot easier...I remember asking you back when you were building it why you went down the GA road Mark t Mark.
rankamateur Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Reg's first Savannah was GA registered for about two weeks before he converted it to RAA. I don't remember him mentioning any particular grief getting his original rego through, nor any difficulty converting it to RAA.
Keen Aviator Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 Hi I am new to this site, having just purchased a CH701 and hangared it at Cessnock, NSW, Australia. I have stripped it back to bare metal and have now started to put on the new colour. I am looking for a new set of slats for this bird and realise that several owners have removed the slats and installed VGs but I want to keep my slats for the time being. Mine were damaged while transporting the plane from the NT on a trailer and I am looking for a good set. So, if anyone in the eastern states has a set at a reasonable price I will be interested in talking to you. Cheers Ron
Marty_d Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 HiI am new to this site, having just purchased a CH701 and hangared it at Cessnock, NSW, Australia. I have stripped it back to bare metal and have now started to put on the new colour. I am looking for a new set of slats for this bird and realise that several owners have removed the slats and installed VGs but I want to keep my slats for the time being. Mine were damaged while transporting the plane from the NT on a trailer and I am looking for a good set. So, if anyone in the eastern states has a set at a reasonable price I will be interested in talking to you. Cheers Ron Hi Ron, I recently bought a set of Savannah slats and fitted them to the 701 wings I built. The only modification needed was to remove about 400mm from the outer slat and move the end cap. The mounting plates may have to be re-drilled to fit your existing 701 slat mounts. Anyway, just letting you know because Savs are a lot more common than 701's in this country so you may have a better chance of getting a Sav set. What paint scheme are you planning on? Are you doing it yourself? Cheers, Marty
Keen Aviator Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 Thanks Marty. So, if there are Savannah slats out there, I would be equally pleased to know. I am doing this restoration with the help of 2 good friends. The colour scheme is predominantly a cub yellow with the ailerons, rudder and elevator being an emerald green. Ah, the spinner will also be green. It took all of my school holidays to pull it apart and strip it completely. The engine and mount was removed to paint the firewall and a new bungee shock cord was fitted before re installing the Rotax. The fuselage is now in colour, as is the fin/rudder. The current heatwave conditions have brought the project to a standstill as far as painting is concerned. 2 pac paint does not like 40+C temperatures. So, other small jobs are being attended to before painting the wings and ailerons etc. A new cowl had to be made as the cooling was almost non-existent due to the original one having been severely altered. I don't have a date for first flight after this re-incarnation. However, hopefully not too long. Cheers Ron
eightyknots Posted February 13, 2017 Author Posted February 13, 2017 Hi Ron,I recently bought a set of Savannah slats and fitted them to the 701 wings I built. The only modification needed was to remove about 400mm from the outer slat and move the end cap. The mounting plates may have to be re-drilled to fit your existing 701 slat mounts. Anyway, just letting you know because Savs are a lot more common than 701's in this country so you may have a better chance of getting a Sav set. What paint scheme are you planning on? Are you doing it yourself? Cheers, Marty It's a good idea to buy used slats> I am sure there are plenty around the place with many Savannah owners fitting JG3's stolspeed VGs. Well Marty, that is one pesky bit you won't have to build yourself. 1
Keen Aviator Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 Thanks Marty Hopefully there are some slats out there! Cheers Ron
Keen Aviator Posted March 4, 2017 Posted March 4, 2017 Hi all Having recently bought a 701 and I am pretty close to fully restoring it, I am looking at installing the 12 VGs that were supplied to the previous owner from Zenit, but never fitted.. I have looked at the pages showing the location for installation.One of the photos shows the VGs neatly stacked with a tag on them stating 12. The clip-seal bag they came in says 16 but only 12 in the bag. Other photos show considerably more than 12 on the curved underside of the stabilator. Anyhow, I could not find anywhere that gave the spacings between them. I have taped them on at 6" intervals prior to riveting them in position and lined them at the point shown in the pictures. I am keen to hear from anyone with a working knowledge of them and what is the optimum number and/or spacing their benefit. Thanks Ron
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