j230d 10 ply 6 inch tyres

[Dayble]

So we've decided to get 10 ply tyres 6" for our j230.

 

Looking at past threads i can see a few sources.

 

Can anyone suggest what a ballpark price is for the tyres and fitting ?

 

 

[Guest Andys@coffs]

So I used the source that everyone has previously identified in Victoria and 3 tyres, 3 tubes plus postage to Adelaide was $220 from memory in Jan of this year.

 

As for fitment, that joy is something you get to do. I suggest that you should practise this yourself so that when you fly into "black stump" and you are the sole human for 10+kms in all directions you can fix the inevitable flat yourself. When I changed all 3 it took around 3hrs, but could have been done a bit faster if motivated

 

 

[Jabiru Phil]

10 ply tyres

 

Hi Andy,

 

Did you have to do any mods to the spats?

 

My 230 D has no gap on one side, infact the tyre has worn a slight groove in the spat. Probably caused when landing. I run 40 psi so not much bulge.

 

I think I would have to do some serious work with fibre glass to allow for the larger tyre.

 

Cheers.

 

Phil.

 

 

[Guest Andys@coffs]

Yep, my front wheel spat is being reshapped by the writing on the LH side of the tyre.... In this case the tyre is not the sacrificial element and there is a strange lower edge being formed. I'll watch it, but cant and couldnt see any way to prevent what is occuring short of completely removing the spat, something I didnt want to do. Its odd that its only on one side, perhaps the guidance holes drilled in the spat oriiginally arent in exactly the correct place.

 

Andy

 

 

[Jabiru Phil]

Thanks I will have a look at the week-end. I may just purchase two and leave the front alone.

 

Cheers,

 

Phil.

 

 

[Guest brentc]

These are the details given to me by a forum member quite some time ago.

 

Hi Brent, Sorry its taken me a while to get back to you about the 10 ply tyres we recently put on our Jabiru. They are described on the invoice as 510 ALP Trelleborg 10 Ply. They cost $86.00 each including GST. The frt charge was $15.00 which surprised me considering the weight (they are meaty little buggers). They came from; M&C tyres P/L 259 High Street Kangaroo Flat VIC 3555 Ph 03 5447 1377 Mob 0412 194 083 They went straight on to the split rim despite suggestion that a ledge on the rim may need to be turned down. We had no problems at all! They are bloody solid and I would think will enable you to get off the ground and land even if they were flat. We filled ours with nitrogen.

 

 

[Guest Andys@coffs]

Hmm good thing Brent posted, as I looked at the price he said and thought.....difference.

 

When I checked the Credit card statement what I said was $220 was in fact $320....sorry

 

Andy

 

P.S I found that the bead seating was tighter on the 10ply than the worn out 6ply's, so much so that I though I may have an issue in that I couldnt get them to seat until they had about 15psi of pressure in the tyres.....makes me wonder how easy it will be to break the bead if and when I need to get them off.

 

 

[BigPete]

You and me both, Andy. I'm tippin' a hacksaw may come in handy when they're due to be replaced. i_dunno

 

regards

 

:big_grin::big_grin:

 

 

[Modest Pilot]

You might consider a hydralic press. Direct Deals have 6 tonne models for $120.

 

I have a 12 tonne model that I found has lots of uses and has paid for itself many times over. To remove the tyres I cut a hole in a hunk of 10x3 wood with a jigsaw just bigger than the wheel diameter. Lay the wheel on the wood in the press. I use another block of wood just smaller than the rim; you could probably press direct on the hub but you might distort the wheel; and slowly pop the tyre off.

 

 

[bushpilot]

Does anyone have any update stories on how the 10 plys have gone onto a J230 or J160? We have both a/c and are thinking of changing the mains only - but we would prefer to retain spats on mains...

 

 

[Jabiru Phil]

Hi Chris,

 

I had pm from a chap at Broken Hill that fitted to the mains.

 

I have since cleaned out my pm box but he told me he had to put a couple of spacers between the outside and the axle bolt.

 

He may come back to you as he would get this post I reckon.

 

Cheers.

 

 

[Guest Andys@coffs]

Simple answer:-

 

I havent touched the tyres or had to do any unexpected replacement of air since I changed them. Spats are fine, except for a slight rub on the nosewheel sidewall, but not enough to get excited about.

 

Prior to change unexcpected air replacement with associated pain and grief was a regular occurence

 

Andy

 

 

[Outback]

Hi Chris, after only 25 hours with my J430, I have already had 2 punctures (from catheads/bindi's on farm strips) so I ordered 3 x 10 ply tyres yesterday. I used the source from Brent on this thread...they were $88.00 ea.

 

The first flat tyre was at a remote strip, and it wasn't much fun improvising a jack, getting the wheel and tyre off and then finding someone with a patch. It took almost a full day. I couldn't beleive how thin the 6 ply tyres are.

 

I know this doesn't answer your question, but to let you know (from my experiece so far) that theres a fair chance of a puncture when operating from farm/grass strips and the inconvenience spoils your day. I will let you know how the new tyres work out.

 

Garry

 

Coolah NSW

 

 

[Vev]

Hi Chris

 

 

Both my mate and I have fitted 10ply Trelleborgs to our 430 and 160 and are very happy with them. In terms of my 160, I needed to add a small spacer (3mm) on the outside axle mounting point to hold out the spat a little to ensure clearance.

 

I bought them from M&C Tyres (talk to Adam) http://mctyresbendigo.com.au/specials.cgi for $88.00 each + tubes. Make sure you get 90 deg metal valve necks (not straight rubber as they won’t fit) tubes. I didn’t fit the 10ply to the nose wheel and left the 6ply in place as the clearance looked marginal.

 

 

Fitting is fun (not) but suggest you get access to a tyre press … For what it’s worth, I did the following procedure:

 

• Break the rim seal on the side opposite the value … however you will only need to move this by about 5-10 mm as you run the risk of a tube pinch if you go too far.
   
   
  
• Unbolt the wheel hub (including brake disc) and then by hand spread the rims halves apart and fit a small bock of wood (10 or 12 mm is enough) between the two halves. (NB. The wheel has almost no taper or rim well to relief the pressure off the tyre bead so you need to create a gap by holding the rim apart with a small piece of wood).
   
   
  
• Then continue to press the tyre off the rim towards gap between the halves, but do this from the opposite side to the valve.
   
   
  
• Once you have the rim half out of the tyre, remove the tube.
   
   
  
• Turn the wheel over and place your block of wood to support the inside of the rim and then press the tyre off the rim.
   
   
  

 

Fitting:

 

• Soap up the tyre bead and hand push in the valve side of the rim.
   
   
  
• Powder up the tube with talcum and slightly inflate and fit value neck and push tube into the tyre. (You only need a small amount of air in the tube to stop in getting between the two halves when you bolt up … too much air will make it impossible to push the halves together to get your bolts back in).
   
   
  
• Soap up the other half of the rim and push in and bolt up. (make sure you match the halves as per the disassembly and keep every thing is clean)
   
   
  
• Fully inflate and make sure you have an even bead line around the rim and it fully in place.
   
   
  
• Balance and refit to your aircraft.
   
   
  

 

 

The only other issue to be aware of is the speed rating on the 10ply is lower than the 6 ply, whilst this isn’t stated on the tyre it is in the tech specs. However after talking this aspect over with a Trelleborg tyre expert he said that this would only really be a concern if one was running the tyre under load over a considerable distance and allowed to get hot.

 

 

All in all I think the extra weight/benefit trade off is worth the confidence of reducing punchers in the field. What’s more, I think the side walls are so thick you would get away with a flat tyre landing without incident.

 

 

Hope this helps?

 

 

Cheers

 

Jack

 

 

[bushpilot]

Hey Jack - thanks very much for the detailed reply! We are very likely to try these on our J160 first - then the J230 later..

 

Anyone know if the change to non-standard tyres would impact the 'factory built' requirement for training a/c??

 

 

[Outback]

Fitted the 3 new 10 ply tyres to-day. No issues, no mods needed on the spats. The 10 ply tyres are 1.6kg heavier (each) than the 6 plys, so the extra weight is about 5kg.

 

Just a question to Jack & Andy. Using the recommended tyre pressures for the 6 plys results in a much rougher ride from a farm strip than the 6 plys. There is no "bottom bulge" in the tyre at all. Are you running the 10 plys with lower pressure?

 

Many thanks,

 

Garry

 

Coolah NSW

 

 

[Vev]

Hi Garry,

 

I started out with 33psi (as per my op manual) in the mains but running now at 28psi ... only have the 6ply on the nose and running at 28psi as well.

 

Cheers

 

Jack

 

 

[jetjr]

• Balance and refit to your aircraft.
   
   
  

 

How do you balance them? -

 

Was asked previously, best we got to was doing it on the hub, adding weight until it wouldnt rotate on its own anymore

 

I did it this way but ended up with ~30g on each wheel to get it right. Certainly helped with high speed shakes.

 

Has to be a better way

 

JR

[Guest Andys@coffs]

Fitted the 3 new 10 ply tyres to-day. No issues, no mods needed on the spats. The 10 ply tyres are 1.6kg heavier (each) than the 6 plys, so the extra weight is about 5kg.Just a question to Jack & Andy. Using the recommended tyre pressures for the 6 plys results in a much rougher ride from a farm strip than the 6 plys. There is no "bottom bulge" in the tyre at all. Are you running the 10 plys with lower pressure?

Many thanks,

 

Garry

 

Coolah NSW

At present I operate from Gawler and havent operated into anything agricultural (although sometimes when looking at prop nicks I dont think that!!) as such just as per POH.

 

Andy

 

 

[Vev]

Hi JR,

 

I just used a motorcycle static wheel balancer. I fitted a bar (smae size as the axle)through the wheel axle slot.. the bar is then rested between two sets of over lapping bearing at each end (which don't have seals and therefore lower friction) and added stick-on weights on the high point. The wheel bearings in the wheels has too much friction owing to the seals to do directly off the axles with any reliability.

 

Too be honest it's not prefect as the wheel dia is so small it make it hard to do a perfect job but it does the trick in terms of a 90% outcome very quickly.

 

Cheers

 

Jack

 

 

[Outback]

Firstly, thanks to Jack & Andy for your advice...I'm now running all 3 tyres at 26PSI and getting much less vibration on the ground, and the tyres still have the appearance of 35PSI.

 

Re JR's posting, I've noticed a vibration just after take-off. This is obviously the wheels spinning out. Putting the brakes on stops the vibration immediatly, so the wheels do need balancing.

 

I've contacted the local tyre service who claim they can balance these small wheels. Will let you know.

 

Cheers,

 

Garry

 

Coolah NSW

 

 

[jabpilot]

If anyone is interested M & C (see earlier in thread) have a new batch of 10 ply tyres just arrived.

 

 

[Outback]

Just a quick update. I've had the 3 new 10ply tyres on for almost 4 months now, with over 20 take off/landings from a farm strip.

 

No puntures at all. The tyre wear is minimal - most of the small external "tits" from the moulding are still there. In fact the tyres still look brand new, apart from 100's of catheads projecting!

 

Thanks to everyone for their advice, the 10 plys ended up a great investment.

 

Garry

 

 

[jetjr]

Good to hear, how did you go with balancing?

 

 

[Outback]

The local tyre service balanced the 3 wheels with his normal wheel balancing equipment but there is still a small vibration just after getting airborne. I just pull the brakes on for a second and the vibration disappears immediately - I guess that means the nosewheel is balanced OK.

 

Garry