ICP Primer application & result

[glongrid]

I have just started assembling XL & my initial experience with ICP supplied primer is, to put it simply, not good. As per the instructions, I am only priming metal to metal surfaces with a paint brush. The result is streaky & in some cases lumpy adhesion. Also the lower edges of components are collecting excess primer which I feel I should remove mechanically along with clearing all holes of primer. Cleco's may eventually jam if dried primer is lodged in them over time.

 

Can anyone tell me if I am being over critical or do I have genuine reason for concern.

 

Gordon.

 

PS. I have posted this request elsewhere but feel it may be missed due to age of original thread. I hope the dual postings do not run contrary to forum protocol.

 

 

[Guest Maj Millard]

Go with Wattyl super etch in the spray cans. Lot easier, just as effective and sticks as well. Goes a long way also. Always use a good thinners, or wax and grease remover with a clean rag, to clean job before spraying......................................................................

 

 

[Guest Walter Buschor]

Hi Gordon,

 

I agree with Mj. Millard on this one. I etch-primed all parts of my Savannah before assembly. Some people say that this will add weight and is not required. You will have to be the judge on this one.

 

The "black stuff" ICP supplies is good for nothing - exept under car wheel-arches etc.

 

any good etch-primer will do the job. If you use it only on mating surfaces cans will be the go. If however you wish to etchprime everything a large can that you thin down will be a lot cheaper.

 

happy building

 

Walter

 

 

[alexsch]

Hi folks !

 

I will put my order for a savannah xl at short future time and i would ask you about the primer . I found in stores here in greece that product Primers

 

Is it suitable for our bird ?

 

Thank you

 

Safe Flying !

 

 

[Thruster87]

If you are building an aircraft use aviation methods which are proven.1 .Alumiprep wash,Alodine coating and then two part expoy primer [NOT etch primer with alodine coating] or nitrocellulose lacquer aircraft paint or Zinc chromate or Zinc chromate free primer.2. Prekote then epoxy primer.3 Alumiprep then an etch primer. 4.Top coat if required Cheers [ there are a few other products instead of Prekote]

 

 

[Vorticity]

I came to the same conclusion and am using the self etch primer (protec). ICP and Sonex both say that you dont need to apply blanket surface protection. I contacted sonex because I was concerned about the 6061 holding up in tropical areas. The CEO got back to me saying that if I was really concerned I should coat the matting surfaces and the spar.

 

As part of the process I did a few trials with the 6061 with no protection and with different self etch primers. The bare metal held up very well (I have a friend who has some in his shed that has been there for many years, looks new) but there was some differences with the primer quality. The main difference was in how I prepped the surface. With nothing, adhesion was poor and the finish was 'gluggy', I was most happy with the bits I scrubed down with scotchbrite before drying and painting. Anything that I will never see again will be coated but easy access areas for inspection such as wing skins and fuselage skins will be bare and treated with ACR50/corrosion X every 2 years after a good inspection.

 

Also consider the amount of time, weight, money and toxic chemicals involved with some other methods out there. I got a price to coat my sonex with zinc oxide and it was scary. I also spoke to builders who had used it in the US and they where not fans, reckoned that if they build again they will use a self etch primer.

 

The only savannahs that I could find with corrosion was where drainage/air holes had been sealed up and moisture could not escape. If anyone has found different I would love to know.

 

 

[alexsch]

If you are building an aircraft use aviation methods which are proven.1 .Alumiprep wash,Alodine coating and then two part expoy primer [NOT etch primer with alodine coating] or nitrocellulose lacquer aircraft paint or Zinc chromate or Zinc chromate free primer.2. Prekote then epoxy primer.3 Alumiprep then an etch primer. 4.Top coat if required Cheers [ there are a few other products instead of Prekote]

Thank you both for your replies :thumb_up:. I will follow Thruster87's first method a) can you inform me about witch firm can I use for epoxy primer? b) After priming can I use automotive paint or something else

 

Sorry if the questions are silly but it’s my first time to all this

 

Safe flying

 

 

[Admin]

Sorry if the questions are silly but it’s my first time to all this

Safe flying

There is NEVER a silly question on this site Mate...ask away on anything!

 

 

[Flyingphot]

Better to ask a question and appear silly, than to not ask the question and prove you are.

 

Cheers

 

Bill

 

 

[Thruster87]

Thank you both for your replies :thumb_up:. I will follow Thruster87's first method a) can you inform me about witch firm can I use for epoxy primer? b) After priming can I use automotive paint or something else Sorry if the questions are silly but it’s my first time to all this

 

Safe flying

Automotive paints are fine, [i used Valspar 860 K2 ] .The important part is the primer [i used Valspar VP50 epoxy primer 2 pack] used,make sure it is suitable for the underlaying /metal treatments.The main point in choosing the paint system is you DON'T want to sand between coats,you want to be able to put on the top coat on while the primer is still wet-ish [15min-1/2hrs between coats on mine].Also do a test piece first. CheersT87

 

 

[alexsch]

Thank you very much of all your answers i will try to find the Valspar here in Greece

 

I am stunned by the warm welcome in your forum :thumb_up:

 

I will keep in touch for my savannah progress