rankamateur Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 Here's one I prepared earlier Photo used with(out) permission, No view of the front mounting during preflight, give it a waggle, if the bolts have fallen out you can probrably tell.
eightyknots Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Here's one I prepared earlier[ATTACH=full]31026[/ATTACH] Photo used with(out) permission, No view of the front mounting during preflight, give it a waggle, if the bolts have fallen out you can probrably tell. Thanks, Steve, that is a good photo that shows this up well. This must make the plane just a bit more aerodynamic.
rankamateur Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Here's one I prepared earlier Actually not! It was the first factory built S brought out here.
rankamateur Posted July 10, 2014 Posted July 10, 2014 Well the hangar is finished tonight, builder packed up and paid. Just one thing left to do, there was absolutely no locking mechanism supplied for the front sliding doors. next time you go to the farm could you post a couple of photos of what they did with yours Mark? Mine are free to blow open in the breeze at the moment. 1
Kyle Communications Posted July 10, 2014 Author Posted July 10, 2014 I will take some pics when I go up there to sign off although my mate is going up Monday I think for a day or 2 so I will get him to take some pics of it. From what I have seen it is a rotary lever and it goes up to a spring loaded pin by a wire that just pulls the pin out of a bracket with a hole in it. There is also a keylock on the outside handle these mechs are only on the 2 cenre door the 2 outer doors just have bolt style mechs that go into holes drilled into the floor
rotax618 Posted July 10, 2014 Posted July 10, 2014 I built a small PA door into one of the centre sliding doors and a simple gate bolt into the floor.
rankamateur Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 My doors can't have anything protruding from the rear face because it fouls on the other door or the purlin when the doors open back flush with the wall. I am going to need to pin them through a flush hole in the frame with a bolt mounted on the purlin then come up with a flush way to secure the two middle doors together in the centre. It is a bit basic but even a nut and bolt drilled through the edge of the 50mm RHT frame would do it in an agricultural way.
Kyle Communications Posted July 11, 2014 Author Posted July 11, 2014 this is the only pic I have until Eric goes there on Monday
rotax618 Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 G'day Mark, you will probably regret hanging the doors from the top, every hangar around here has had to convert to bottom tracks. The conversion is easy just instal a couple of alloy sliding gate tracks and wheels. Apart from making the doors easy to open and close particularly when its windy, if you put the tracks down on silastic then they provide a barrier to stop water being blown under the door.
Kyle Communications Posted July 11, 2014 Author Posted July 11, 2014 Hi Tom I will see how they go the job isn't finished yet..there has been a issue with the contractor who installed the doors. The owner of the company was there this week fixing it up but they are waiting on a few parts to come to finish it properly. Where did you get the bottom roller stuff from?...is it gate gear ?
rankamateur Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 Seems anyone can build a shed, it takes an installer to fit the doors and turn it into a hangar. 1
Kyle Communications Posted July 12, 2014 Author Posted July 12, 2014 I think your right Steve. The shed has been put together very well but the guy who did that certainly couldn't fathom the doors properly. They are out of alignment by the pics I have and the shed company owner when he saw the pics I sent went out to see why.. Turns out there is a issue with the bottom guides. Its amazing the action you get when you hold back 11 grand on them :)
rankamateur Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 The shed has been put together very well but the guy who did that certainly couldn't fathom the doors properly. Same with mine, I paid him to get him off the place so I can get on and fix the problems. He kept blaming the design but I told him four days before he had trouble that the height of the top guides was critical to getting them to work and at that point I could see it dipped in the middle by my untrained eye. He pushed on and had a heap of trouble because he couldn't be told and in the end he got pissed off and it all got too much for him. Theyneed a manual like a Savannah Manual, the sheds come with about 12 A4 pages of detail drawings and it just isn't enough. Eltrack probrably sent a manual for the door system but I have never seen it. 1
rotax618 Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 I got the alloy sliding gate tracks and ball bearing wheels from a place near Danny Leach's, but you can buy them from most retail alloy suppliers, the tracks come 6 metre lengths in 2 sizes, I used the larger size extrusion and wheels. I put silastic under the tracks and screwed them down to the concrete floor using countersunk blue coloured concrete screws you can get at Bunnings. The wheels are fitted into a box which has a flange at the base to screw into the bottom of the door frame.
rotax618 Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 By the way - thanks for the loan of the prop balancer.
Kyle Communications Posted July 12, 2014 Author Posted July 12, 2014 what figures did you end up with?
rankamateur Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 This is the thread drift champion of the whole site!
rotax618 Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 We got 0.09 - 0.1, certainly smoothed things. Thanks
rotax618 Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 One of the 'S' Savannahs down here has cracks forming at the ends of the angle across the top of the firewall. Have you seen any problem up your way
Kyle Communications Posted July 13, 2014 Author Posted July 13, 2014 Actually I think someone has mentioned to me about this. Mine has not don't that yet. Maybe due to the throttle bar as it puts a lot of stress on that bar as well when pulling the throttles back to idle. When you tug on it the bar does flex a little so that maybe the cause. From a balance of 1.00 to 0.9 you will notice a big difference in smoothness now
Kyle Communications Posted July 13, 2014 Author Posted July 13, 2014 This is the thread drift champion of the whole site! I started this thread and I like to chat about all things to do with a savannah...whether it be prop balance or hangarage as well...its all to do with the same subject (savannah) so is it really thread drift :) 1
eightyknots Posted July 26, 2014 Posted July 26, 2014 I got the alloy sliding gate tracks and ball bearing wheels from a place near Danny Leach's, but you can buy them from most retail alloy suppliers, the tracks come 6 metre lengths in 2 sizes, I used the larger size extrusion and wheels. I put silastic under the tracks and screwed them down to the concrete floor using countersunk blue coloured concrete screws you can get at Bunnings. The wheels are fitted into a box which has a flange at the base to screw into the bottom of the door frame. That sounds like a good solution R618!
eightyknots Posted July 26, 2014 Posted July 26, 2014 I started this thread and I like to chat about all things to do with a savannah...whether it be prop balance or hangarage as well...its all to do with the same subject (savannah) so is it really thread drift :) The only thread where thread drifting is never an issue: http://www.recreationalflying.com/threads/original-drifter.9648/
Bennyboy320 Posted July 29, 2014 Posted July 29, 2014 Does anyone know the fly away price for a new factory built XL? Not stated on the Savannah web page, thanks............................
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