MrH Posted July 1, 2011 Posted July 1, 2011 Hey Gundy, Oscar is the spitting image of you! Same infectious smile Obviously a future pilot Cheers H
Guest Maj Millard Posted July 1, 2011 Posted July 1, 2011 Gundy, Hi there, I believe I've fitted a few sets of those 8.50 X 6 tyres to Cessna Ag planes, and Imay also have a set on a Storch out bush. One thing for sure it'll take a loooong time to wear them out ! They should also offer good protection against puncture in the bush. Hope the Savvy is going well, I certainly enjoyed looking it over at Old Station...................................................Cheers Maj...
Kyle Communications Posted July 8, 2011 Author Posted July 8, 2011 Hi All Been working away slowly on the Sav. Lots of small things to do now and not a lot of parts left finally. Been making the doors wow there is a lot of rivets in them to. Made my new dash panel not quite finished yet still have all the switch holes to drill through yet but wanted to get the throttles done and now its actually screwed to the main rear frame I will do the holes so they will be accurate against the holes in the backframe. The Jabiru static port came the other day so will mount that soon when I get some pvc tube and a joiner so I can remove the fin and then disconnect the joiner I will put there to make it easier. Going up to the farm tonight for the weekend will slash the strips so hopefully will get a flight with Bill before he heads off to Oshkosh so I can do a landing or 3 there other than that will have to wait until he gets back The throttle rods need to be bent so they come out straight to the dash panel and go through the firewall with out touching. Also the throttle bar needed to be packed with 1 washer at the back and 2 washers at the front to make it level without pulling the middle of the bar down Mark
eightyknots Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 That's a very interesting place for a static port, Mark. It's also quite a long run back to the cabin. Where did the ICP folk recommend the static port should go? Why did you choose the Jab st-pt?? (BTW: There were some interesting photos of the fuel tank reserve system you put on the Ultralight crash into lake Jindabyne thread)
Kyle Communications Posted July 11, 2011 Author Posted July 11, 2011 Hi 80K The Jabiru has the static port on the top of the fin I think it looks nice there also. The idea came from Laurie Strickland. He had owned a Jab for quite a few years and never had any issues with his instruments with that port. The Sav ports are fitted either side of the fuselage behind the pilot. Everyone who has a Sav says they basically are useless and most just have a coil of tube wound up behind the dash works just as well as the std Sav install. Laurie has since sold the Jab and built his own VG XL and it was at his suggestion I went this way as he isnt happy with the static on the sav either. So for 22 bucks and a little bit of pvc tube I thought it would be worth the try if it doesnt work well I will coil the tube up under the dash like everyone else does...but I will have a nice looking ornament on the fin Mark
Kyle Communications Posted July 11, 2011 Author Posted July 11, 2011 Another mod I will do is everyone complains about the 2 throttle cables that go to the engine. one is short the other goes through a big S curve to the other carby and is about twice as long. This brings some adjustment and operation issues at times. I will make a new bracket that will either clamp or I will tig to the throtle bar this way both carbys will have the same length control rod and this will make the issue a non event. I will either make a new one from steel and tig it of I will design a aluminium one up and make it on the cnc machine I have here so it can be clamped to the throttle bar for a easy fit. If it works I will make some and offer them for guys who want to do the same mods. You can see the pic of the throttle bar in the prev post on this page the double bar with the rod through it is for the bowden cable to both carbys this bar is way over on the pilot side of the plane and one carb is directly in front of this the other is over the other side of the engine so hence the problem Mark
eightyknots Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 Hi 80KThe Jabiru has the static port on the top of the fin I think it looks nice there also. The idea came from Laurie Strickland. He had owned a Jab for quite a few years and never had any issues with his instruments with that port. The Sav ports are fitted either side of the fuselage behind the pilot. Everyone who has a Sav says they basically are useless and most just have a coil of tube wound up behind the dash works just as well as the std Sav install. Laurie has since sold the Jab and built his own VG XL and it was at his suggestion I went this way as he isnt happy with the static on the sav either. So for 22 bucks and a little bit of pvc tube I thought it would be worth the try if it doesnt work well I will coil the tube up under the dash like everyone else does...but I will have a nice looking ornament on the fin Mark It does look really interesting and sets your Sav apart from the others. :idea2:If you have to go to the "coiled tube under the dash" the static port on the tail could double as a lightning arrestor
Kyle Communications Posted July 13, 2011 Author Posted July 13, 2011 I got the 8mm air tube yesterday for the static port as I need more of course because I am not using the std ones it runs from the top of the fin all the way to the Brauniger in the dash panel. I also got a proper joiner all tube and the joiner I got at SMC but Festo is all the same except they are on the other side of Brisbane to me. The tube fitted really tightly over the Jab static rod and I made a P clip from alu about 10mm wide and molded it to fit and it clamps the tube to the stainless tube. I then made a small bracket about 20mm wide and molded it to fit so that then holds the front of the steel tube down on the top of the fin top plate. The plastic tube comes down the front of the fin area inside and drops nicely into the rear hole on the top of the fuselage. I think I will get a conduit sealing gland and put it trough it then have the joiner inside the fuselage near the old battery door this will make it easy if I have to take the fin off. I will also put another gland in for the elevator trim servo control wire and the DC up to the fin strobe. I know a lot of people just run all the wiring down that hole but the elevator control cables come through there as well and I dont want anything else in there that could foul anything there. Some pics attached of the static and fin top plastic cover fitted Mark
Kyle Communications Posted July 16, 2011 Author Posted July 16, 2011 I have got to the point now where its time to start the main wiring and also do my dash wiring. I made a new dash panel complete with my glovebox hole...I still have to make the glovebox yet. The glovebox I was going to tig it in but then realised if I ever need to take it out it would be impossible due to the down angle it will be on so nothing falls out when on a steep climb. So it will be made so it slides in from the front and screws in from the front not as nice looking but obviously more practical. So most all instruments are temporarily mounted except for the radio I will do that today and start making up the wiring tha connects to all the instruments behind the dash also the Brauniger wiring of which most has to go out the firewall. I will make up that harness to the same type of multipin plug that goes through the firewall for all of the engine connections. I am not using anything of the sav wiring harness that is supplied. Also all my wiring will be done with Tefzel aircraft wire not with the automotive stuff that was supplied. Another thing I also did was to replace the std light bulb for the low fuel warning light with a 10 mm flashing led. I removed the bulb from the supplied fitting and used a 10mm drill to drill the square hulder hole in the middle down so the led would fit under the screw top of the light fitting. You then solder the legs of the led to the spade terminals on the inside I was really happy with the way it turned out. You can buy a bezel for the 10mm led but tring to keep the led inside it and also to make the connections to the wiring made it difficult the way I have done that is much better I think. So pics are attached hopefully it shows how it all goes together. Once all the wiring is done everything needs to be removed from the dash then painted then all fitted back in properly ready to install after the plane is painted. I have a couple of Belite guages to try but one of those holes will end up having a transponder in it and it will be prewired to accept that when I get it so the install will be easy Mark
Gundy Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 Mark I forgot to tell you that the Slip ball indicator that is supplied in the kit is totally useless I would buy a better brand.
Kyle Communications Posted July 17, 2011 Author Posted July 17, 2011 Hi Greg Ok no problems do you have any suggestions for one that is 2 1/4 inch...The one from aircraft spruce? or do you know of another supplyer locally?. The belite once above it I am going to try it out also the turn co-ordinater but one will be removed to fit a transponder there eventually. I have spent half the day today wiring up the panel and the switches. because I am using the Brauniger it makes it reasonably simple I just need to find a similar multi pin connector to go through the firewall. One question about the main battery cable to the solenoid...the original doesnt seem big enough maybe I am wrong you have built 3 of them does the battery cable need to be upgraded of the original is fine? How are those new main wheels going? Mark
JG3 Posted July 17, 2011 Posted July 17, 2011 Hi GregOne question about the main battery cable to the solenoid...the original doesnt seem big enough maybe I am wrong you have built 3 of them does the battery cable need to be upgraded of the original is fine? Mark Too right it's not big enough. Put in a much larger one, with heavy duty soldered lugs. Use the original cable as an added earth direct to the starter motor body, paralleling the earth through the chassis. JG
Gundy Posted July 18, 2011 Posted July 18, 2011 Mark I did the same as John. Bigger positive cable and used the original as earth cable, probably over kill but while flying out west you don't need any starting issues thats for sure. Any other slip ball indicator is better than the original. The wheels are probably too BIG for this aircraft but as I've brought them I'll leave them for now.
Kyle Communications Posted July 18, 2011 Author Posted July 18, 2011 Hi Greg/John Do you know the size you used for the positive?..I am thinking either 6 gauge or 4 gauge by the sizes. 6G is 4.11mm in diameter and 13.3 mm sq CSA and the 4G is 5.189 in diameter and 21.2mm sq CSA this is the actual wire sizes NOT including the insulation Mark
Guest mark gray Posted July 21, 2011 Posted July 21, 2011 Mark Kyle, re our conversation the other day. I rechecked JG's prop trial again on his website and indeed there does seem to be a marked improvement in performance on climb with the larger diameter prop, so I was wrong on that one (second time this year I think!) Although there is some confusion on bolly props marketed as say 68" and measured as 66" ? Unfortunately the static thrust on the 66"/68" isn't available for comparison.. On changing the tires sizes and so on regarding slope of the rear fus, mine on standard tires has a down slope looking fwd of about 1 to 1 1/2 deg. Apparently the ICP slip ball no good? Actually when operated by hand, the ball does seem to stick slightly and then roll so there is obviously some internal friction or unevenness. I could see it could be a real bitch in flight trying to rely on it. Imagine the fun you would have with an out of round ball! If you hear of another let me know, I'll research same. See ya
Kyle Communications Posted July 21, 2011 Author Posted July 21, 2011 Hi Mark http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/winterslipindicator.php Above is the aircraft spruce one about US$90.00 is about the only real one I have found in searching I will order one for you as well if you want one and we can split the freight cost The prop size is right I believe you lose 2 inc so the 72inch bolly ends up being 70 inch and the 68 ends up being 66 so I am told. I was going to ring bolly today and find out about the manual inflight adjustable version and how the mechanism comes though the gearbox on the Rotax. The down slope is easily fixed with a riser block between the nose wheel frame and the strut but the bigger wheels should give better clearance anyway so may not need the block for the ground clearance. Bills wheels are std and he needed the block for ground clearance Mark
rankamateur Posted July 21, 2011 Posted July 21, 2011 Hi Markhttp://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/winterslipindicator.php Above is the aircraft spruce one about US$90.00 is about the only real one I have found in searching I will order one for you as well if you want one and we can split the freight cost The prop size is right I believe you lose 2 inc so the 72inch bolly ends up being 70 inch and the 68 ends up being 66 so I am told. I was going to ring bolly today and find out about the manual inflight adjustable version and how the mechanism comes though the gearbox on the Rotax. The down slope is easily fixed with a riser block between the nose wheel frame and the strut but the bigger wheels should give better clearance anyway so may not need the block for the ground clearance. Bills wheels are std and he needed the block for ground clearance Mark Mark, I could be wrong, that would make the second time this year for me too, but I had thought that you only lose the 2" of diameter when you install Bolly blade in a Warpdrive hub. Steve H...
JG3 Posted July 21, 2011 Posted July 21, 2011 Mark,I could be wrong, that would make the second time this year for me too, but I had thought that you only lose the 2" of diameter when you install Bolly blade in a Warpdrive hub. Steve H... No, the other way round. Only if installed in the Warp Drive hub does the diameter match the label. In the Bolly hub it's 2" less. JG
Kyle Communications Posted July 21, 2011 Author Posted July 21, 2011 Hi Steve I was speaking to Bolly today about it and also Alan the designer of the IFA about the manual and electric versions they are just about to release. The 72 inch prop is that but it depends on what hub you use it on. I believe when using their BOS3 hub its a 70 inch and I think this is the one Bill has on his factory XL now Well I was going to order the slip indicator but dont have a CC now..I logged in to make sure there was plenty of money on it and saw that mongrels from 2 different places around the world have used it so it was up to the bank to get the CC cancelled...then fill out the forms then take them to a JP to witness my signiture then back to the bank to send the papers off...this is crap!!! this is the second time in 2 months this has happened...The other CC actually a debit card is one we use exclusively for farm stuff was hacked as well the pricks got over 3000 out of that before I found out and the bank says should get it back in maybe 3 months or so...That card has NEVER been used online and only ever at reputable businesses like bunnings and the local tractor guy at childers etc. so I have no idea how they got the numbers and I scan my Mac every day with a very good virus/trojan scanner which also scans incoming emails etc and I am reasonably switched on about the scam emails etc...actually I think I am very switched on and some of the scam emails seem pretty authentic so can understand how some ppl get caught. Anyway I just have to live with it but this past 2 issues are the first I have ever had so maybe its Visa or Bank security issues all I know is I need to wait a week for another CC replacement and I am pissed off Mark
Guest mark gray Posted July 21, 2011 Posted July 21, 2011 Hi Mark K, Which SIip Ind are you after, I might get one and yours too if you want. I think I was looking at the winter horizontal. Does our mate at Redcliffe have it?
Kyle Communications Posted July 21, 2011 Author Posted July 21, 2011 He just gets them from there anyway...better to get it direct from aircraft spruce with the exchange rate at the moment and I have found them to be really quick my vertical compass came in 1 week and the freight charge wasnt outrageous either. So 2 of them would be the same freight charge anyway...I want the Winter 2 1/4 inch one to fit in the hole I already have there. I am stuffed for a week until my new CC arrives. I will get that airbox paperwork over to you maybe tomorrow or on saturday morning Mark
Guest mark gray Posted July 22, 2011 Posted July 22, 2011 Mark K, OK, two on order via fed ex, no eta yet.
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