dan tonner Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 To clarify...with the standard small nosewheel it probably will be fine but with the 600/6 tyres on the noseleg it is bad...almost uncontrollable so I will put mine back to the way it should be. Danny leach just sent me some photos of his throttle modification for the savannah it looks easy and simple and with the thicker Bowden cable if you break a throttle spring at least you should be able to get some throttle control..it may end up running a bit rough but at least your not stuck on full throttle. Just need to bend the 2 firewall brackets and machine up 2 brass fittings to go on the throttle bar levers..these fittings need to rotate Hello from Nova Scotia, Kyle. I am interested in those throttle mods - I made some imaginative sweeps and loops with the cables from my throttle rod cable connection to the carbs - requiring a re-shaped firewall bracket - but it all seemed too complicated for something so critical. I've attached some pics - comments are welcome. Having the throttle cables connected directly to the levers that connect to the cabin-side control rods seems like a sensible alternative. Somewhere in these blogs I also saw adjustable solid rod connections from the carb levers to the throttle rod levers and from there to the cabin-side control rods - equally impressive. I'd like to see more details of these set-ups. I watch the blogs religiously and am truly envious of the comraderie and numbers of Sav owners/builders you enjoy Downunder. I guess I'll just have to promote these Savs like crazy and get an east-coast Canadian group together. There are only 23 of these planes registered in Canada - most on the west coast. Regards all; fly safely. Dan
dan tonner Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 As you can tell from the stumbling reply below....I am still struggling with how to submit a reply on the Recreationalflying.com site... To continue from my chopped-off sentence below, .....exited that strategy after getting a snapshot preview of the labyrinth of procedures, regulations and forms (not to mention costs) of the "Amateur Build": process. The Advanced UltraLight Aeroplane (AULA) registration will provide me with everything I need for my recreational goals. I am over 65, just learned to fly and am pretending to be a realist. Buying and importing is a piece of cake: just make sure the kit you buy is on Transport Canada's "Listing of Models Eligible to be Registered as Advanced Ultralight Aeroplanes". There is no duty on any aircraft or aircraft kit but you will pay Provincial /Federal Sales Tax (HST in N.S.) on any kit, parts or finished airplane you purchase. There is also a similar listing of kits that can be built for "Amateur Built" registration - and this introduces the first interference from Transport Canada - the 51% rule - good luck with that and the myriad of obstacles and inspections and conditions that follow. I live in Nova Scotia, will be back there about mid-April and could talk your ear off if you are interested. (902) 826-9103 Where are you located? The new North American Savannah Agent is Valter della Nebbia in Texas: (I.C.P. Aviation North America L.L.B.). He has been an asset; very supportive with a genuine interest in my project - even though I purchased my kit from his company's predecessor, SkyKits, the previous North American ICP distributor, located in Tennessee. Eric Giles (of SkyKits) has moved on to other aircraft with a new company (World Aircraft Corporation) and was also very supportive and helpful as I've assembled my project over the last 2.5 years. I would go this route again given what I know now. Keep in touch; maybe someday there will be a Savannah fly-in somewhere I can reach in Canada. Best regards, Dan Dan,I am interested in your building a Savannah as I had planned on doing the same until the Savannah North America dealership moved and then virtually disappeared. I was wondering what your experience has been buying and importing to Canada. Are you building as 'amateur built'? Hello Bigbuck 13; (I don't think I've ever corresponded with someone by that name before....I trust I'm not heading down an alley I don't want to visit...) I started out with the intention of doing an "Amateur Build" for Canadian registration but very quickly exited that strategy after getting a snapshot preview of the r build on both this site and the Savannahaircraft site since I started building my own Savannah VGW (same plane - North American designation) here in Nova Scotia, Canada, in July of 2011. I have over 1000 hours of logged build time on my project and expect to be airborne in the spring. The attached picture was taken in early December just before I stored her for the winter. I spent most of the summer of 2012 redesigning the wiring plan and getting input on the mods before doing the electrics installation in the fall of that year. The final revision of my schematic is posted on Savannahaircraft. You make reference to "the incident" in this post which, I surmise, occurred sometime between May and December of 2013 - but give no details. Is there anything I should be aware of before I begin trials with my plane? Your repairs look as good as (better than?) the original; especially the lightweight cowling fitted outside the fuselage skin (where ICP should have put it in the first place). Did you layup the fibreglass yourself or is the cowl available through the ICP network? All the best for 2014; I've thoroughly enjoyed your posts; Fly safely, Dan Tonner Dan,I am interested in your building a Savannah as I had planned on doing the same until the Savannah North America dealership moved and then virtually disappeared. I was wondering what your experience has been buying and importing to Canada. Are you building as 'amateur built'? I have been following your build on both this site and the Savannahaircraft site since I started building my own Savannah VGW (same plane - North American designation) here in Nova Scotia, Canada, in July of 2011. I have over 1000 hours of logged build time on my project and expect to be airborne in the spring. The attached picture was taken in early December just before I stored her for the winter. I spent most of the summer of 2012 redesigning the wiring plan and getting input on the mods before doing the electrics installation in the fall of that year. The final revision of my schematic is posted on Savannahaircraft. You make reference to "the incident" in this post which, I surmise, occurred sometime between May and December of 2013 - but give no details. Is there anything I should be aware of before I begin trials with my plane? Your repairs look as good as (better than?) the original; especially the lightweight cowling fitted outside the fuselage skin (where ICP should have put it in the first place). Did you layup the fibreglass yourself or is the cowl available through the ICP network? All the best for 2014; I've thoroughly enjoyed your posts; Fly safely, Dan Tonner Dan,I am interested in your building a Savannah as I had planned on doing the same until the Savannah North America dealership moved and then virtually disappeared. I was wondering what your experience has been buying and importing to Canada. Are you building as 'amateur built'? I have been following your build on both this site and the Savannahaircraft site since I started building my own Savannah VGW (same plane - North American designation) here in Nova Scotia, Canada, in July of 2011. I have over 1000 hours of logged build time on my project and expect to be airborne in the spring. The attached picture was taken in early December just before I stored her for the winter. I spent most of the summer of 2012 redesigning the wiring plan and getting input on the mods before doing the electrics installation in the fall of that year. The final revision of my schematic is posted on Savannahaircraft. You make reference to "the incident" in this post which, I surmise, occurred sometime between May and December of 2013 - but give no details. Is there anything I should be aware of before I begin trials with my plane? Your repairs look as good as (better than?) the original; especially the lightweight cowling fitted outside the fuselage skin (where ICP should have put it in the first place). Did you layup the fibreglass yourself or is the cowl available through the ICP network? All the best for 2014; I've thoroughly enjoyed your posts; Fly safely, Dan Tonner Dan,I am interested in your building a Savannah as I had planned on doing the same until the Savannah North America dealership moved and then virtually disappeared. I was wondering what your experience has been buying and importing to Canada. Are you building as 'amateur built'? I have been following your build on both this site and the Savannahaircraft site since I started building my own Savannah VGW (same plane - North American designation) here in Nova Scotia, Canada, in July of 2011. I have over 1000 hours of logged build time on my project and expect to be airborne in the spring. The attached picture was taken in early December just before I stored her for the winter. I spent most of the summer of 2012 redesigning the wiring plan and getting input on the mods before doing the electrics installation in the fall of that year. The final revision of my schematic is posted on Savannahaircraft. You make reference to "the incident" in this post which, I surmise, occurred sometime between May and December of 2013 - but give no details. Is there anything I should be aware of before I begin trials with my plane? Your repairs look as good as (better than?) the original; especially the lightweight cowling fitted outside the fuselage skin (where ICP should have put it in the first place). Did you layup the fibreglass yourself or is the cowl available through the ICP network? All the best for 2014; I've thoroughly enjoyed your posts; Fly safely, Dan Tonner
Kyle Communications Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Hello from Nova Scotia, Kyle.I am interested in those throttle mods - I made some imaginative sweeps and loops with the cables from my throttle rod cable connection to the carbs - requiring a re-shaped firewall bracket - but it all seemed too complicated for something so critical. I've attached some pics - comments are welcome. Having the throttle cables connected directly to the levers that connect to the cabin-side control rods seems like a sensible alternative. Somewhere in these blogs I also saw adjustable solid rod connections from the carb levers to the throttle rod levers and from there to the cabin-side control rods - equally impressive. I'd like to see more details of these set-ups. I watch the blogs religiously and am truly envious of the comraderie and numbers of Sav owners/builders you enjoy Downunder. I guess I'll just have to promote these Savs like crazy and get an east-coast Canadian group together. There are only 23 of these planes registered in Canada - most on the west coast. [ATTACH]27442[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27443[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27444[/ATTACH] Regards all; fly safely. Dan Hi Dan The consensus is that the solid rods will not work that well due to engine movement in the mounts slightly moving the throttle levers. The cable idea I think is the best and I was going to cnc mill some new operating arms to go onto the throttle bar but I think it is much easier just to drill a hole in the current arm and use a pivoting grip as in Danny Leach's photos. Usually going for the simplest way proves to be the best way. I know some ham radio guys over that way in Nova Scotia seems the weather can be pretty nasty too at times..maybe that's why there is more flying on the west coast. I have been to a lot of places in Canada for work...I loved the place...but the coldest I experienced was in Thunder Bay....that was out of the ball park for me...we get to about 2 degC at the worst here average coldest is around 7 degC in the middle of our winter...but over there it was -31degC !!!!!! that is out of control I thought I was going to freeze to death Mark Mark
Marty_d Posted March 8, 2014 Posted March 8, 2014 Hi Mark, Thanks for directing me to this thread for the tank install photos, they really helped. I have the right wing tank placed, brackets clecoed and perforated support bracket riveted in. Being a 701 and not a Sav, the lower skins get riveted before the tanks go in, so I had to drill about 6 of them out to slide the tank support bracket in. All worked well though and she's snugly in place. Amazing how similar these designs are, the pre-drilled holes at the end of the bracket mated up exactly with the rib rivet holes! Next question is about fuel gauges. Do Savs usually have them? The chapter that Rick sent me only mentions the tubular sight gauge that goes on the left tank and displays on the root rib. This is not an option for the 701 as the root rib is much smaller than the others. I already have a pair of VDO sender units that are used with the 701 tanks, the 701 plans call for these to be modified (float holding rod bent) so that the unit can be placed on the side of the tank instead of the top. However I kind of like the idea of putting it on the top (where the unit is designed to go) as I see that as one less possible leak point, especially a 59mm hole. I notice that the Sav tanks have a circular flat spot at the top opposite the filler hole - is this designed to be the spot to install the sender unit? The only possible snag to this is that the lug for the sender wire would protrude past the top skin. Solution may be to put a small teardrop fairing over this, I guess. Any pointers you or other Savannah builders could give about this would be much appreciated! Thanks, Marty
Kyle Communications Posted March 9, 2014 Author Posted March 9, 2014 I don't know of any Sav owners who have used the fuel senders I have 4 sight gauges for all 4 of my tanks inside the cabin but you will see in this blog I did it a little differently. BUT just last weekend Hans from Kilcoy was over at Ycab with Roger another sav owner and they were calibrating fuel senders for his 701 that is heavily modified with a fill in section at the cabin area for the wing it also has a savannah tailplane and no slats its the one used on www.stolpeed.com in the videos about vortex generators. Hans would be the one to speak to about the fuel senders his email is [email protected] he is a nice guy and is very helpful 1
rick morawski Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 Hi Mark,Thanks for directing me to this thread for the tank install photos, they really helped. I have the right wing tank placed, brackets clecoed and perforated support bracket riveted in. Being a 701 and not a Sav, the lower skins get riveted before the tanks go in, so I had to drill about 6 of them out to slide the tank support bracket in. All worked well though and she's snugly in place. Amazing how similar these designs are, the pre-drilled holes at the end of the bracket mated up exactly with the rib rivet holes! Next question is about fuel gauges. Do Savs usually have them? The chapter that Rick sent me only mentions the tubular sight gauge that goes on the left tank and displays on the root rib. This is not an option for the 701 as the root rib is much smaller than the others. I already have a pair of VDO sender units that are used with the 701 tanks, the 701 plans call for these to be modified (float holding rod bent) so that the unit can be placed on the side of the tank instead of the top. However I kind of like the idea of putting it on the top (where the unit is designed to go) as I see that as one less possible leak point, especially a 59mm hole. I notice that the Sav tanks have a circular flat spot at the top opposite the filler hole - is this designed to be the spot to install the sender unit? The only possible snag to this is that the lug for the sender wire would protrude past the top skin. Solution may be to put a small teardrop fairing over this, I guess. Any pointers you or other Savannah builders could give about this would be much appreciated! Thanks, Marty Hi Marty I have put fuel level senders (4 of) in a 701 I built and a then in a Savannah after that. The 701 I put them in the top and the savannah I put them in the side because of the tank being right up to the top skin. No problems with them leaking. I used some gasket goo as well as the rubber gasket then filled them up to test them for a day or two. The flat area on the top of the sav tank is for the left or right filler neck in the tank mould. IMO the fuel level senders are not worth the trouble and have not used them again since then. You still should dip your tanks and calculate your fuel usage for any given trip, and a fuel flow meter with totaliser gives a good backup to your calcs and is a lot easier to install. Just my 2 bobs worth. Cheers Rick 1 1
Marty_d Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 Thanks Mark and Rick. I'm inclined to agree with you Rick - the thought of calibrating and installing these things and then worrying about possible fuel leaks (especially as, being a 701, the skin under the tank is not removable) is off-putting. The fuel flow meter and totaliser is a good idea, and naturally the dip stick before each flight is essential. Cheers guys - think I'll leave them out! Marty
Marty_d Posted March 12, 2014 Posted March 12, 2014 I don't know of any Sav owners who have used the fuel senders I have 4 sight gauges for all 4 of my tanks inside the cabin but you will see in this blog I did it a little differently. BUT just last weekend Hans from Kilcoy was over at Ycab with Roger another sav owner and they were calibrating fuel senders for his 701 that is heavily modified with a fill in section at the cabin area for the wing it also has a savannah tailplane and no slats its the one used on www.stolpeed.com in the videos about vortex generators. Hans would be the one to speak to about the fuel senders his email is [email protected] he is a nice guy and is very helpful Hi Mark, another question if I may... (promise I'll stop hassling you after I install this tank!!) On the pictures of your tank install you have a blackish goop showing around the fuel fitting. What is that? I was in at Webster's today and asked them about fuel-proof Loctite, the only thing they could recommend was loctite 567 at $86 a pop, which I thought was a tad much. Thanks, Marty
Kyle Communications Posted March 12, 2014 Author Posted March 12, 2014 I initially used Stag but it leaked the plastic tanks are bad to try to get something to adhere to them...after all the leaks I used a oil resistant motor engine black silicone that seems to have worked...about 10 bucks for a tube 1
Marty_d Posted March 12, 2014 Posted March 12, 2014 I initially used Stag but it leaked the plastic tanks are bad to try to get something to adhere to them...after all the leaks I used a oil resistant motor engine black silicone that seems to have worked...about 10 bucks for a tube Thanks!
Kyle Communications Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 Ok back to this thread now. I did the proper weight and balance last night with the help of another pilot (hey Cuz :) ) and we used very accurate electronic scales that are used for race cars there are 4 weighing stations so had one spare to weigh pilots and pax and also adding to make sure what was what. Attached in XL files are the actual weights on each wheel also stating the configuration of pilot,pax amount of fuel also tiedown kit and wheel jacks. The other XL file is a calc version that I got from another Sav builder on another thread here it has all the correct arms you just need to fill in the values. I have done a couple of pdf files so people who don't have excel can see the results. The interesting one is the one with the toolkit in the back next to my battery which you may remember I shifted to the rear position to reset the CG on the aircraft. it turns out that if you put 4 kg in the back it takes off around twice that from the nose wheel weight at the front and with me (big fat bastard) and all 4 tanks full and my tiedown kit and the really cool super light wheel jack that Roger Weston and Mark Gray designed for the Savs I am still well within the limits. The girlfriend is almost ready to fly again. Everything mechanically is done and all the nice mods I have done the only thing left to get her flying is to now run the engine to make sure all the new water piping I have done and thermostat etc don't leak the gascolator system works that is now on the firewall. I have not modified the throttle cables yet I got some graphite powder today and blew it through the bowden cables on the throttles and this has freed them up certainly ok until I do the new throttle cable system. All I need to do now is balance the prop and get her signed off and its back into the air. The new dash is not finished yet but will happen as I want to keep her as std as possible while I sort any bugs out. The big plus I can't wait to try is the rudder pedals. With the 60mm extensions they feel just sooooo good also they are smooth as anything due to the extra mechanical advantage..this will really make a big difference to the way you fly her and also most important is comfort on a long flight. So tomorrow morning its off to start the engine so will see how it goes Mark Kyle Savannah weight & balance pilot and 100kg fuel_4 tanks full KgMetres.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance pilot and 100kg fuel_4 tanks full PoundFeet.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance at 600kg KgMetres.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance at 600kg PoundFeet.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance-2.xls Kyle Savannah actual weights.xls Kyle Savannah weight & balance pilot and 100kg fuel_4 tanks full KgMetres.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance pilot and 100kg fuel_4 tanks full PoundFeet.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance at 600kg KgMetres.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance at 600kg PoundFeet.pdf Kyle Savannah weight & balance-2.xls Kyle Savannah actual weights.xls Kyle Savannah weight & balance pilot and 100kg fuel_4 tanks full KgMetres.pdfKyle Savannah weight & balance pilot and 100kg fuel_4 tanks full PoundFeet.pdfKyle Savannah weight & balance at 600kg KgMetres.pdfKyle Savannah weight & balance at 600kg PoundFeet.pdfKyle Savannah weight & balance-2.xlsKyle Savannah actual weights.xls 3
eightyknots Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 Ok back to this thread now.I did the proper weight and balance last night with the help of another pilot (hey Cuz :) ) and we used very accurate electronic scales that are used for race cars there are 4 weighing stations so had one spare to weigh pilots and pax and also adding to make sure what was what. Attached in XL files are the actual weights on each wheel also stating the configuration of pilot,pax amount of fuel also tiedown kit and wheel jacks. The other XL file is a calc version that I got from another Sav builder on another thread here it has all the correct arms you just need to fill in the values. I have done a couple of pdf files so people who don't have excel can see the results. The interesting one is the one with the toolkit in the back next to my battery which you may remember I shifted to the rear position to reset the CG on the aircraft. it turns out that if you put 4 kg in the back it takes off around twice that from the nose wheel weight at the front and with me (big fat bastard) and all 4 tanks full and my tiedown kit and the really cool super light wheel jack that Roger Weston and Mark Gray designed for the Savs I am still well within the limits. The girlfriend is almost ready to fly again. Everything mechanically is done and all the nice mods I have done the only thing left to get her flying is to now run the engine to make sure all the new water piping I have done and thermostat etc don't leak the gascolator system works that is now on the firewall. I have not modified the throttle cables yet I got some graphite powder today and blew it through the bowden cables on the throttles and this has freed them up certainly ok until I do the new throttle cable system. All I need to do now is balance the prop and get her signed off and its back into the air. The new dash is not finished yet but will happen as I want to keep her as std as possible while I sort any bugs out. The big plus I can't wait to try is the rudder pedals. With the 60mm extensions they feel just sooooo good also they are smooth as anything due to the extra mechanical advantage..this will really make a big difference to the way you fly her and also most important is comfort on a long flight. So tomorrow morning its off to start the engine so will see how it goes Mark Great News, Mark! 1
Kyle Communications Posted April 12, 2014 Author Posted April 12, 2014 I don't know how those pounds and feet sheets came about
Kyle Communications Posted April 12, 2014 Author Posted April 12, 2014 Started the engine this morning..bang she started within 1 second of cranking and ran well. Had Danny looking for any leaks of fluids and all was ok..after she warmed up give her a few blasts at 50000 rpm so it all looks fine. Just need to make a mounting bracket now for the Dynavibe prop balancer head to fit and balance the prop and she is ready to go Mark 1
Kyle Communications Posted May 1, 2014 Author Posted May 1, 2014 Last Tuesday my "girlfriend" took to the air again after a 7 month hiatus. I did a few mods which I was testing on tuesday and wednesday to get ready for the shakedown flight out to the Inglewood weekend last weekend. All went extremely well and she flys just as good as before with not one change in any trim direction. The best I could get the prop balance down to was .13 inch per sec and that is due to my carb balance being out it started at 1.61 inch per second which is quite high. The next step is to modify the throttle cables and then do the carb balance then I will rebalance the prop again. But all in all still quite smooth even now so I expect it to be even better. I am so glad to have her back in the air. I modified the pitot tube to a new position one of the other sav guys did it and found it to be super accurate but mice seems to be way out so need to fix that pretty quick probably this weekend I will go back to the original pitot and do some more speed testing and then I will experiment a little more with it.Replacing all the fuel hosing in the cabin and from the engine bay is soooo good no fuel smell anymore when you open it up to go for a fly also the new fuel feedback from the engine is great as I don't have to worry about overfilling the right inboard tank now if I have it turned off. The extended rudder pedals work so well I can't believe how much better it is to fly her. I wish I had done this when I built her... I was considering doing it at the time but thought I would keep her standard but if you are building a sav and you have big feet like me and Mike then extend the pilot pedals by 50 or 60 mm you won't believe how much better it is to fly especially on a longish trip. Lots of things happening as well at the moment. Up at the farm We finally are getting a hangar/machinery shed put in it is 15 metres wide by 18 metres long and 4.5 metres to the eaves and 6 metres high in the middle. The front has 4 sliding doors and the rear has a 3 metre roller door. I have a mate up there at the moment he is making a camp about 200 metres from my shed on my place to use as a base for his travels so he is keeping an eye on the progress of the shed going up. He used my tractor to do the initial earthworks to make the pad. This week the concretes turned up to do the final finishing of the pad and they are boxing it up today and will pour the concrete early next week. The shed has been delivered so in a few weeks it should all be up. I can't wait as this will make it so great up there we could move in when we like. Some pics of the shed pad happening attached Mark 3 1
magishme Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 So great to see you back in the air Mark, well done. Your bird is looking as good as ever. 1
ave8rr Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 Hi Mark, good report on the Sav and glad you are happy with the mods you did while out of the air. I am sure you will sort the pitot problems in due course. The hangar earth works look good. I will have to take a flight out there to check progress. Talk soon. Cheers
rankamateur Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 That is not a very big pile of iron for the money, Mark. Hangars must be nearly all air. My agent is doing a site inspection with the builder Tuesday morning. My pile will be even smaller when it arrives.
bobcharl Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 Well done Mark. Hope you have better luck second time around (with the first "öther woman" of course) Will be interested to hear more about the pitot, I put mine in the specified location and was not aware that there was any issue with that. Bob
dan tonner Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 Congratulations from Nova Scotia Mark. I am still putting the final bits and pieces together on my XL and hope to be airborne before summer. What is the product name for the "non-osmotic" fuel hose you used to get rid of the fuel smell? I'd also like a little more information on the toe brake extensions .... did you simply lengthen the upper part of the brake pedal? Am I correct to say that this was to increase the leverage on the master cylinder plunger? As I've followed your rebuild, I've been most interested in the new fibreglass cowling shells - lighter weight up front would have reduced the need to add weight at the tail - I understood many Sav builders had to do this to get the W&B figures centered. Your pictures remind me how wonderful it would be to build an airstrip and hangar on a golf course. Beautiful; just beautiful! Fly safely. Dan
rotax618 Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 G'day, this is my pitot setup, I changed the original setup after nearly poking my eye out and after reading an article by Bill Whitney concerning the positioning of the pitot relative to the leading edge, Roger Weston showed me the article. The new setup is a bit "agricultural" but is much more accurate at all angles of attack and makes it impossible for the pitot to cause eye injury - I used two of the screws holding the inspection cover to attach the bracket. 2 1
Kyle Communications Posted May 1, 2014 Author Posted May 1, 2014 Steve Yes it does not look like enough material to me either...not my problem though so long as it is all completed properly I don't have a issue. Maybe there is another delivery to come. Bob and Rotax 618 I changed the pitot just like Roger Westons one he is 2 hangars down from me. I was doing some research last night and possibly I may have a hole or blocked static tube my static goes from the instruments right up to the top of the fin where I have a Jabiru static port so I will check all that out today. The original eye poker pitot worked fine and by all accounts the new pitot setup should be better and works great on Rogers and also Danny Leach's savannah. Dan The rudder pedal mods I did you need some 19mm chrome moly tube to extend the pedal height also you need some sheet to make new mounts for the brake cylinders. Danny Leach is a smart bugger was chatting to him last night he is going to make up something that can be attached to the existing pedals in a week or so which will extend them by around 30mm and won't require any welding. Some pics attached of when I modified my pedals I will take some more pics today while down at the plane Mark 1
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