Kyle Communications Posted November 24, 2016 Author Posted November 24, 2016 Not a weakness...just crappy explanations. The inside wall of one of my tanks had a bigger round corner and the measurements they give in the manual which by the way worked reasonable for the other 3 tanks although I did modify them a little after finding this first tank issue. But because my tank was a little larger the fitting wouldnt pull up flush. So had big dramas. Elongated the hole...big mistake but Danny managed to grinding back the inside a little now so the hole has been opened up a little to make it rounder and I have made a fitting up that is now 14mm thread diameter and now I have a Oring either side which will seal off on the inner and outer surface. Oring groove machined into the machined fitting and the nut. Easy to do if you have a lathe. I love haing machinery...and the CNC was used to flycut the sides of the nut
rankamateur Posted November 24, 2016 Posted November 24, 2016 Looks like you are the "Flap bracket mule" Hank You could sprinkle a bit of crystal meth on them for a bit of fun as he goes back through customs. 2
Kyle Communications Posted November 25, 2016 Author Posted November 25, 2016 I fitted the new flap brackets this morning. It works a treat and took around 30 mins. I had to drill the holes in the base plate but all I did was get the oringal bracket placed them opposite to each other and marked the holes through with a felt tip marker then checked allignment looking from the outside. Drilled the 2 end holes and used clecos to hold the one bracket in then drill the rest and clecoed them. The the other side I did the same to check alignment and again the same process. Everything lined up perfect. The brackets are now out as I have to relieve a small bit out of one side for the twin stick arrangement and paint them the rivet it in. Made a short video to show how it works 5 1
Kyle Communications Posted November 25, 2016 Author Posted November 25, 2016 Just a reminder that this bracket changes where no flap and full flap positions are. Your full flap will be further out from Jim and the Twins now...much more comfortable. No flap of course is lower towards the floor
Kyle Communications Posted December 20, 2016 Author Posted December 20, 2016 Throttle blocks have been started. This is the first pass then they get drilled 2
Kyle Communications Posted December 22, 2016 Author Posted December 22, 2016 Got the top of the block machined and now also drilled both. I just need to trial fit to make sure it all fits correctly
IBob Posted December 22, 2016 Posted December 22, 2016 Got the top of the block machined and now also drilled both. I just need to trial fit to make sure it all fits correctly[ATTACH=full]47380[/ATTACH] We may have to set up an account with you over there if this goes on.............)
Kyle Communications Posted January 8, 2017 Author Posted January 8, 2017 I finally got my fuel tanks back in today and I also fitted the new flap bracket. Too windy by the time I finished so hopefully will test fly during the week after work Mark
rankamateur Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Hi Mark, you fitted Condor 6.00 X 6 wheels. Did you drill the offset valve hole in the wheel hub, as per the manual?Thanks. DON'T DRILL !! Just get the tubes with the right angle brass stem that they should be supplied with anyway and mount the stem out through the two half holes in the rim casting.
IBob Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 DON'T DRILL !!Just get the tubes with the right angle brass stem that they should be supplied with anyway and mount the stem out through the two half holes in the rim casting. Sorry Mark/Steve...I deleted my question having found Steve's earlier posts on the matter of Condor 6 X 6 and standard rims. Unfortunately, I already drilled because although I have the tubes with the rt angle stems, the stems are still offset in the inner tube. Well, that's my excuse........ I have now discovered...as Steve and others already said....that the Condor bead is too big to fit that way. So now my question is how to bung up the holes I just so carefully and neatly made....?
rankamateur Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Reg welds them up, I would probably go to a tyre shop and get black plastic plugs designed for the job and put them in the offending hole, pump the tyre up then promptly forget they are there. 1
IBob Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Reg welds them up, I would probably go to a tyre shop and get black plastic plugs designed for the job and put them in the offending hole, pump the tyre up then promptly forget they are there. Thanks Steve. Yes, I'm inclined to do something like that: I can see welding maybe introducing other problems with these light castings, unless the man on the torch really knows his stuff. (And if the wheel is okay with a drilled hole and plastic bung in the centre, why would it not be okay with a drilled hole (bunged) and the valve back in the centre?) So we use the original hole, and it doesn't matter that the valve is offset towards one side of the inner tube by about 25mm?
Kyle Communications Posted January 31, 2017 Author Posted January 31, 2017 well its cast alu so a nice metal epoxy like Nu metal or something would be the easiest just make sure you put tape on the tube side so its nice and smooth surface on the epoxy
IBob Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Thanks Steve and Mark. You've given me plenty of options. I think I'll see what, if anything, the tyre shop has. Or trim one side of the supplied plugs, so as to retain the lip on the inside. Then glue in place to prevent ingress of dirt etc, also to avoid losing plug at some future tyre event....?
eightyknots Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Thanks Steve. Yes, I'm inclined to do something like that: I can see welding maybe introducing other problems with these light castings, unless the man on the torch really knows his stuff. (And if the wheel is okay with a drilled hole and plastic bung in the centre, why would it not be okay with a drilled hole (bunged) and the valve back in the centre?)So we use the original hole, and it doesn't matter that the valve is offset towards one side of the inner tube by about 25mm? Think of it as lightening holes. A few more and your plane's total mass may end up 299 kg
IBob Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Think of it as lightening holes. A few more and your plane's total mass may end up 299 kg I wish! With long range tanks, bigger wheels and adjustable seats, most builds now seem to be coming in well over the magic 300 number...
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2017 Author Posted February 1, 2017 Well the day has finally arrived. My parachute is here :) now got to fit it which will be interesting especially for my weight and balance. Its a bit of a mission getting "dangerous goods" from Europe to here but its now done and dusted and if I want another one I am much wiser and it will be a lot easier. 3
Marty_d Posted February 1, 2017 Posted February 1, 2017 Hey Mark, that's excellent! I plan to get a BRS for my 701 a little further in the build, so any hints or tips you have on getting one here, would be much appreciated.
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2017 Author Posted February 1, 2017 Its a mission but I got lucky too..I also know so much more now on how to do it and WHO can do it. There are special licences required and delivery sites and transport but it is do able if you know the right people now. I will probably leave this one in "the girlfriend" and get another for Mabel when the time comes. Getting 2 in at once and sharing the special freight requirements will save bucks as they can only be airfreighted. AND they can not be sent on any passenger aircraft they must come on air cargo only aircraft. Mine came on a Emirates cargo flight 1
Xavier Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Just an update on the new flap brackets, I had them installed last week and starting to play with the different configurations. First of all I'd like to thank you Mark for this bracket, it does add options in the landing configurations and it is working very nicely. So far I think I will be using it like so but it might change with more experience : ( No flap : Slot [1] --> Full flap : Slot [4] ) Take Off - Normal Wind - Low to moderate : Slot [2] Wind - Strong - Gusty : Slot [1] Take Off - Short Wind - Low to moderate : Slot [3] Wind - Strong - Gusty : Slot [2] or Slot [1] Landing - Normal Wind - Low to moderate : Slot [2] Wind - Strong - Gusty : Slot [1] Landing - Short Wind - Low to moderate : Slot [3] Wind - Strong - Gusty: Slot [2] or Slot [1] Landing - Very Short Wind - Low to moderate : Slot [4] Wind - Strong - Gusty : Slot [3] or Slot [2] Xavier 1
Kyle Communications Posted February 3, 2017 Author Posted February 3, 2017 Thats great xavier. You are using it exactly how I envisioned it when I added the extra flap slot. I will finally get to fly mine tomorrow morning or sunday morning. Its been too hot and windy here this past couple of weeks when I have had the time available to fly.
Kyle Communications Posted February 3, 2017 Author Posted February 3, 2017 Xavier how do you find the new geometry of the flap handle.? This was the main reason I changed mine when I did it nearly 5 years ago now. The extra stage slot was after just flying it and I felt it needed that extra stage
Xavier Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Mark, yes it is easier to move the flaps to all position with the new geometry. But what I enjoy the most is the extra position, more configuration, more option, more safety ! Happy days ! Xavier
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