My CH 601 HD Rebuild Thread

[Adrian Lewer]

Hi Guy's I am going to get a thread going on my CH 601 HD rebuild so I can have some sort of Log of what I have done and also so others can see what can be done and also give me advice along the way.

 

This is me in my new baby

 

 

 

 

The cause of the nose gear collapse

 

 

 

and the result

 

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

11/04/2010

 

I wanted to remove the complete wiring system, Engine, Instruments Etc for a straight forward Repair.

 

Engine Out

 

I removed the wiring by literally chopping it off at the firewall. I was not happy at the install of any of the wiring and also wanted the chance to tidy it up and with wiring, I just wanted to start fresh.

 

 

Removing The Seats And Centre Console For Wiring Access

 

Removed the seats for easier access to the flooring.

 

 

Also had to remove the centre console to access the wiring up to the headset jacks...(not looking forward to re wiring this thing back up)

 

 

This Is What I Would Like To Fix

 

I don't like the way the aluminum can chafe the fuel lines and electrical connections.

 

 

Turtle Deck And Old Fuel Tank Removed

 

Now removing the instrument panel

 

The top turtle deck front will be replaced with new T6 sheet as the old one had a couple of creases in it.

 

 

Engine Mount Removal

 

Engine mount was bent. also had a repair from previous damage so it has to go. only 4 bolts.

 

 

Horizontal Stab Removal

 

Only 4 Bolts hold the Horizontal Stab on. I removed the control cables from the top and bottom... was surprised that the control cables have split pins but the 4 bolts holding the tail on don't ?

 

 

This Is The Damage From The Inside

 

I have not fully looked at this area as yet. to busy with stripping the Fuzz.

 

 

My 3 Yo son Julien loves flying and had his first flight in a J230 a couple of weeks ago.

 

 

Everyone Needs An Inspector Taking The Photos

 

 

 

[Ultralights]

wow, fuel lines, electrical wires and bare aluminium edge. potential for disaster right there!

 

i would fix it with a loom stand off to hold the lines and wires firmly and away from any chance of chaffing.

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

I also did not like this..... here is the wiring wrapped around the fuel tap bar ?

 

This is my reason for a complete strip and re build to my standards. I will most likely be popping every rivet on this A/C just to check all is ok. This will also make the paint strip and re spray alot easier.

 

 

 

[Tomo]

Thanks for the photo's Adrian, some very disturbing ones at that! Good to see you fixing it all up.

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Thanks Tomo. I am looking forward to the rebuild.

 

The A/C was built by a TAFE as a project under 2 instructors (not sure what type )

 

the A/C was then rego'd under GA. The plane was sold to someone who then sold it to the person who had the accedent. I then purchased it from the insurance company.

 

The A/C was involved in an accedent some time ago which was not reported to RAA or CASA as I have been told by numerouse people who know the A/C history.

 

I will post the pictures tonight of the damage which occoured on the first non reported accedent.

 

Hope I am not stepping on anyones toes by reporting and doccumenting this here but hey, it's now my A/C I have limited Experience and need the advice and feedback to make this A/C safe for me, my family and those on the ground.

 

 

[Ultralights]

dont worry about the repercussions of its history being on display here, as you said, its Your aircraft now, and Safety first always! even if that means opening a can of worms from the past.

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Thanks Ultralights they where my thoughts.

 

Engine was ok'ed today by a rotax authorized repairer. come back with nothing wrong and apparently leak down was above average for a engine that had been sitting, this makes me more happier and wealthier ? or does it ? Engine log book will be filled out when I catch up with him to pick it up :0

 

Received A complete set of plans in the mail today. thanks to the Zenair distributer in bendigo (allan) as the set that come with the A/C where only partial ? Now I can start and make a list of T6 sheet needed to complete my Airframe Repair.

 

This Is The Turtle Deck With Ripples

 

As you can see even the canopy is botched up. I can fit my hand in the gap ?

 

 

This Is The Port Stub Wing

 

It is not even riveted to the ribbs ?

 

 

Port Lower Longeron With A Kink ?

 

 

 

[Deskpilot]

Adrian, gotta ask....why, in heavens name, did you buy that plane? Was it dirt cheap or what. I wouldn't trust any part of it.

 

 

[icebob]

Hi Adrian,

 

Looks like you have yourself a good restore job, hum just like doing up an old car.

 

Bob.

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Fuselage is now home in the shed, busted another drill bit last night, Damn I hate that, thats 4 now. Have to buy a million clecos now.

 

Adrian, gotta ask....why, in heavens name, did you buy that plane? Was it dirt cheap or what. I wouldn't trust any part of it.

Well yes it was, not sure if I should mention how much but not a lot at all. now the engine is back with a clean bill of health I have had an offer for the engine alone which would double my money back, and another offer of what I payed for the A/C, for the engine alone and the supply of a 1250 hour old cert rotax 912 80HP in return which would mean I have a plane for free ? but I want to keep this motor.

 

This is also why I intend to strip it and inspect it all, and I will still have a cheap A/C

 

 

[facthunter]

Engine Strip.

 

You have had a prop strike. The rotax procedure allows inspection of the reduction gear section only, but since the crankshaft is built-up (pressfitted), I personally would check the crankshaft runout. This requires an engine strip. The aircraft which crashed at Goulbourn had an engine failure caused by failure of the crankshaft. Nev..

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Absolutely Agree, Crankshaft runout was checked, Engine leak down was performed as well as the gear box, clutch assy, and the rear stator (not sure why but bob who done it says it was necessary to check)

 

Apparently (have not got the engine log book back as yet) all figures are perfect and the leak-down was above average.

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

17/04/2010

 

Aircraft fuselage arrives home for the strip down and assessment. As you can see not alot of room hence why I will be doing the rebuild in installments.

 

And you can see my other hobby R/C helis and jets.

 

 

 

And The Engine

 

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

20/04/2010

 

Firewall Removal

 

Today I removed the Firewall from the fuselage (FUZZ ) Removed all mantles and then drilled out rivets, as you can see when you get into it, it really does not look to bad. Just waiting on the E-Mail from performance metals for the Quote on metals.

 

 

 

 

[country kid]

hey adrian look like things are coming along well. you certainly want to take your time and get the job wright the first time

 

top job:score 010:

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Thanks Encouragement goes along way....

 

 

[icebob]

Well done Adrian,

 

Just take your time and enjoy the whole thing, and remember only 30,000 rivets to put back, ha,ha.

 

Have you had a chance to look internally in both wings yet?

 

Bob.

 

 

[geoffreywh]

The picture of the welding on the front leg support is shocking. Bloody amateurish work. You cannot trust ANY weld on the whole aircraft, all will need grinding off and re-welding. Lots of luck......By the way ....is this aircraft of the type that has been grounded in the U.S. ???

 

 

[Guest ozzie]

right about that nose gear weld. is that a factory job? i'd bore out the fork and drop the tube into it then weld it, much stronger than a straight butt weld.

 

ozzie

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Your right about the welds, I have not welded since I was 17 and actual tacked the nose back on for transport, done a better job than whoever did it. Wait untill you see the engine mount you will laugh somthing chronic.

 

The zenith CH 601 XL was the model grounded in the U.S as they had suspected weak points in the wing. Mine is the CH 601 HD and as far as I know there have not been any failures of any kind that where design faults EXCEPT the nose gear does have a habbit of breaking off so I will be modifing it with the XL nose gear which rectified this problem.

 

 

[Relfy]

Good work Adrian, keep the pics coming. It sounds like there are a lot of people interested in following your project with some great advice to offer.

 

Some of the advice may be blunt, but it's all about keeping you safe big fella. :thumb_up:

 

 

[Thruster87]

right about that nose gear weld. is that a factory job? i'd bore out the fork and drop the tube into it then weld it, much stronger than a straight butt weld. ozzie

The current 601xl nose wheel butt weld from the factory is so strong that the tube will bend before the weld gives way.Know this due to testing one.The fork [2 x 3/16" 6061 T6]could be a bit stronger [say a solid 1/2"]so it would take side loadings better Cheers T87

 

 

[Adrian Lewer]

Yep definitely going to look into the XL nose leg. Just having a beer in the shed and was having a close look at the bottom of the plane, the entire wing centre section needs re sheeting as the bottom has been crumbled, I could save it but as I have said I am building this as if I was keeping it for myself so it must be perfect (although I know I will sell it for a J430 Kit eventually)

 

Alot of work ahead, The metal bill is around the $2500 thus far, which includes all new skins, rear longerons, firewall ETC. 1/2 my $5000 budget. Lets see how we go, Paint will be another killer, pop rivets, tools ETC plus me wanting another canopy (as the one on it is poorly attached)

 

On the subject of rivets, my plans call for arguments sake ( A4 Pitch 20 OR 3 X A4 OR A4 Pitch 40) rivets ? What does this mean ? and can I use bunnings rivets (as I have been told) or do I get aviation ones ?they are "Blind Rivets"

 

Forgot to take the picture of the engine mount, ah well sitting in bed on the laptop... you can wait.

 

Cheers All.....

 

 

[icebob]

Hi,

 

some information for you, hope it helps.

 

Bob.

 

Guide for selecting the correct Cherry Rivet for any job.

 

A simple step by step method.

 

Example:

 

The job to be riveted has two pieces of material with a total thickness of 5/16" (8mm).

 

Method:

 

Step 1. Decide which head style and rivet type is best, For example, Truss Head Plugged Type. Chart 1.

 

Step 2. Select the most suitable rivet for the job. (Assume aluminium). Chart 2.

 

Step 3. Select the type of material for the rivet stem. (Presume for this job steel Would be best). Chart 3.

 

Step 4. Choose the most suitable rivet size for the job considering the strength Required. For example 3/16" (4.8mm). Chart 4

 

Step 5. Measure the total thickness of the material to be riveted. In this example it is 5/16" (7.9mm). Chart 5.

 

Using these steps we found that:

 

1 - Type: Truss Head Plugged Rivet Code = 73

 

2 - Rivet Material. Aluminium Code = A3

 

3 - Stem Material. Steel Code = S

 

4 - Rivet Diameter: 3/16" (4.8mm) Code = 6

 

5 - Material Thickness: 5/16" (8mm) Code = 5

 

The correct Cherry Rivet for this job would be 73-A-S-6-5

 

Important:

 

Drills selected must be sharpened correctly and for optimum performance care must be taken in drilling the hole within the limits set out on the specification sheet. An oversize hole can cause problems in setting the rivet, especially in soft materials. Refer chart 4 for correct drill size