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ianboag

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Everything posted by ianboag

  1. ianboag

    UL Power

    One wonders if a UL Power 107 hp 4 would be a good upgrade for a 160. The 107 hp unit is just the 97 hp one with a higher compression ratio. Pretty much a bolt-in replacement for the 2200. I like my 160 except that I miss the horses that made my previous J200 go so well. Anyone out there done anything like this? Yeah I know - Rotax-Rotax-Rotax - but hanging one on a 160 is a bit of a mission. The UL Power bolts on to Jab engine mounts and the prop sticks the right distance out of the cowl. Perhaps less important is that it is injected and FADEC'd and stuff ... Cheers IB
  2. Just not this week ......
  3. I got a NAIPS password (again), logged in and had a look. It's not all that bad. When you get to the actual data listing it looks pretty much unchanged. I will probably revert to what I used to do when I first got into this gibberish/English game ..... You get your briefing from NAIPS - then select and copy the whole screenful (ctrl-A/ctrl-C) - pemet will have a hole you can paste it into (ctrl-V) and a <Translate> button. That's how I did it waaaay back here in Kiwiland when I first got into this. Not as nice as what we had and it will confuse some people .... but it does the job. I shouldn't have to do much to the translation code. Naturally I discarded all the paste-it-in data entry code a long time ago so will have to remember it all again and do it over :-( Of course if a 67-year old retired Kiwi (living in Kiwiland) can do this in his free time sort of for fun, what does that say about Airservices/BOM with their IT departments, jobs-for-life, fat salaries, pensions-to-die-for and all that? [i suppose you might make allowances for me being clever too :-)] When I originally did this for Oz I thought it might shame the 'crats into putting me out of business, but it has been several years and it seems they don't do "shame" .... Just not this week ..... Sigh. IB
  4. It's been a long long time since I did anything on this. It was done as an excuse to learn PHP (the Web scripting language) and I haven't done any of that for a while. I'll put it in my round tuit pile. Ian had a mate who was going to do it properly but I guess that's still coming too. I suppose that's a reason why people should learn gibberish. Then when BOM or AirServices improve (?) the gibberish presentation and my site dies ...... Sigh. IB
  5. I accept that Mr Jr was looked after. I know of no similar examples in NZ. I do know of unhappy people who had Jab engine probs. For whatever reason, the notion that the engine runs to 1000 hours before you get serious does not seem to match reality for many folk.
  6. Can we have a response from anyone who has ever been paid out under a Jab warranty ?
  7. Fair enough Nev. I wasn't agreeing or disagreeing - just quoting numbers I know about. There's a 3300 (not mine) on our field that had a rebore and seems to have survived the exercise. The cylinders had done about 600 hours. A Jab piston + cylinder is about $600. For a Lyc 320/360 the cylinder + head + piston + valves (all comes as one) is about $1500 and you can expect it to last 2000-odd hours. That's just what I know from bills I have paid and engines I have seen/owned.
  8. The walls are about 120 thou thick (1/8 inch) or 3 mm if you prefer. A rebore reduces the thickness by 10 thou - 0.25 mm or a bit under 10%.
  9. Reboring is not officially sanctioned. The cylinder walls are not all that thick. "Normal" Jab pistons are Holden +2 oversize. However it is now possible to buy a +3 oversize. Rebore is feasible but it would be at the reborer's risk. We know because it was done here and we asked ...... This job will likely be new pots and pistons - not humungously cheaper than what one pays for a Lycoming pot/piston which also includes the head and rockers/valves. Jab engines do run nicely but are not famous for longevity relative to that other brand whose-name-we-shall-not mention.
  10. From what I have seen it seems there are two different categories of Jab owners. Some have had a flat away from home, and others have not had one yet :-) This little doofer has been pretty handy ......
  11. The help needed with this one is one person slides it under the end of the leg while the other lifts the wingtip. I'm 67 and no Charles Atlas and can handle the "lift the wingtip" bit on my J160 with no difficulty. Yes it would be lighter in aluminium .... Now that I think about it, you could probably make something that met the "solo operation" constraint by hacking an ordinary car scissor jack - $5 at your local wrecker.
  12. It seems that Jabiru owners face this problem now and again. I know that I do, and the other two Jab owners on the field here are no strangers to the problem. One of them made a dinky little stand that makes wheel removal/refitting very simple. I have one now. It's not copyright. Dimensions are not critical - the vertical bit just needs to be long enough to get the wheel off the ground. The bottom bit needs to be an H or the whole thing will just roll outboard. The top cross-piece is a bit of box with one side cut off and the remaining U opened out enough that the undercarriage leg just drops in it. Easy enough to carry with you - to use it just lift the wingtip and get the help to slide it in. Too easy. Sorry about the pic quality - iPhone in a dim hangar ..... Perhaps Jab could sell this as a factory spare :-) IB
  13. Hmm. Our experience was that it was the bolts were crap (undersize threads) rather than the nuts. The threads pulled like a Christmas tree. Longer nuts was a bit of a band-aid fix. We have gone the way of using 10mm bolts/nuts from ARP who make them for racing engines. Jab only went as far as (12-point) ARP nuts. Go figure. OK here in NZ, but paperwork probably makes it a bit hard in Oz.
  14. Reminds me of when I was learning to handle my J200. Quite simple - you could slow down or you could descend. Doing both at the same time was a bit tricky :-)
  15. Probably about the same as Spruce for someone here in NZ ... :-)
  16. Fair comment. I can't buy 8-32 screws at Bunnings or 8-32 Rivnuts from my local engineering supplier. M4 is about the same size. To buy the imperial stuff I have to go to Spruce in the US - not that it's all that dear from them, just inconvenient. I'm not sure whether the PK's I replaced were metric or imperial :-)
  17. That's not a nutsert if I understand you right - those ones are called "captive nuts" or "receptacles". They are common in certified aircraft. The Rolls-Royce solution. Not supposed to ever let go. Jab use them to do things like hold the cowling on. Always seemed a bit of pain in the butt to me. Not cheap .... see http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/recept.php A nutsert is essentially the same as a rivnut. Kind of like a pop rivet with a threaded bolt in it - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200-PIECE-RIVET-NUT-KIT-M4-ALUMINIUM-RIVNUT-RIV-NUT-NUTSERT-RIVET-METRIC-/170873179141?pt=AU_Fasteners&hash=item27c8d5 YMMV .. the flexibilty of the ultralight world
  18. I worked out that I needed 50-odd of the Jab thingos. That seemed like a non-trivial sum. I looked (with no joy) for the manufacturer or an agent - I very much doubt that Jab make them. All the 25c nutserts I put in were good - none spun. I was able to borrow the setting tool. Subsequent removal and replacement of covers was a breeze. It worked for me. Your mileage may vary ....
  19. Jabiru wanted about $3 each for them when I asked. Rivnuts/Nutserts (at 25c each) work the same. I went round my J200 with M4 Nutserts because I got tired of the self-tapper-hole-enlargement thing. It was a bit of a dog to do, but it was just the once ..
  20. I think 430 kgs might have been ultralight weight limit back then. As I recall, here in NZ it was either 450 or 480 ....
  21. http://www.jabiru.flyer.co.uk/jabeng.html to find why they chose not to install the 912 and built their own engine ... I guess things have moved on a bit since then, but it looks to have been pretty reasonable at the time. Jabiru had built and certified their aircraft around an engine from Italy that disappeared about when they started to need them. The 912 was just too different (heavier, geared, needed bigger prop etc etc) and too hard at the time ........
  22. That would be a great idea if I had more than one fuel tap :-)
  23. Of course. I have tried blowing through the holes too and they all seem to work .... so I just thought I'd cut down on the amount of hole on the faster-draining side and see if that makes any difference. I have at times been in situations where one of the tanks says empty ie the red light is on while tho other one seems to have plenty. Not sure how worried I should be about that ... I has a 15-minute period like that once. The engine kept going round and we landed OK. A dip seemed to show that the "empty" tank was - well - "empty" .... Go figure.
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