BC0979
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Everything posted by BC0979
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I had initially thought that I would mount it on the firewall and use a control knob on the panel but like your idea better.
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I am using the Matco dual park brake https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php?clickkey=37808
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IBob to the rescue again!!!! From your pic, you just tie wrapped the nylon tubes to the side rail. Then up to your park brake mounted to the triangle corner brace of the instrument panel. Nicely done and straight forward. Thank you.
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Hello from sunny Florida. You all have been very helpful in the past few months supplying valuable info that "the manual" has not. Working on the brake lines. Adding a Matco dual line park brake. Need your input on how the brake lines should be run from the toe brake cylinders knowing that the rudder pedals will also move the brake lines. I am worried about this back and forth movement on the nylon tubes. ICP supplied right angle connectors for each cylinder.
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IBOB, Your translation of the italian-english manual was most helpful. "Upper part of the rear fuselage" that could mean a lot of things including the top surface of the rear fuselage LOL With 3 washers I am currently at 2.8 degrees down What I need now is to figure a way to measure my right thrust. I have been looking for a digital horizontal protractor to reference from the firewall to the engine gearbox face which is perpendicular to the prop shaft
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Rotation is the same, thanks for replying
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Gentleman, Thank you again for all the helpful input. I am mounting a Viking 130 on my Savannah. I currently have standard tires on her. I just needed to know what settings I should be aiming at. Surly, test flying would be in store. Flying it without cowling.
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I mounted my engine today and it seems to be pointed down too much. "The manual" states 0-2 degrees down and 2 +/-1 right. What is the reference line or plane to measure this from? Sure would have been nice for ICP to reference it back to something like the firewall For those of you that have been flying the S, to what thrust angles did you set yours up BTW, I am not using a rotax but the thrust angles are important regardless of the engine brand. Any insight would be helpful Thank you Bryan
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IBob, Thanks again for your input. Greatly appreciated. Yeah, this little detail bothered me, so I took another AN5 washer, measured the thickness of 0.062 and ground the long sleeve down by that amount. This should not affect anything else but let me sleep better.
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You all have been very very helpful with all of my previous build question so I have another one. Manual Chapter 15, page 9/24 (see pic of page) The bell crank lever has an elastomer(black) center that is assembled per the diagram with the AN5 bolt, a short metal sleeve, AN5 washer, the lever arm(with black elastomer center), long metal sleeve, then two AN5 washers before the castle nut. Here's my assembly per the manual. Sorry the photo is backwards from the diagram but in either case here's my concern: *** the lever arm (black elastomer) has ONE WASHER only on one side, the short sleeve side. Why is there not another washer on the long sleeve side? I am afraid that the metal sleeve will dig/wear into the black elastomer over time. This is the bell crank and it is in constant use. I am asking this forum if anyone has seen excessive wear in this area???? An easy work around would be to add a washer on the long sleeve side and reduce the long metal sleeve by the thickness of this added washer. Not difficult at all but just wanted to know if there were any bell crank issues. Better to be safe right! Thanks in advance! Bryan
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Any similarities to Buffalo meat? Buffalo is very lean and has a mild taste, not gamey.
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Anyone have roo seats? Is the hide similar to cattle? Roo steak? Serious question
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You just confirmed the "sticky" feel of the ICP stock grip which is what prompted me to ask this group about grips. Not having kangaroo hide here in Florida I will more than likely use something else.
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Bodie, Thanks for the pics and explaining how you mounted the g205. Seems straight forward.
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Very nice. "Man must know his limitations" LOL I don't have the skills to make my own grip without spending more $$$ than buying one ready to go. And I am keeping the Y stick that came with the kit.
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The Ray Allen G205 would be exactly what I am looking for, but when I contacted Ray Allen they told me that it would not fit our 1-1/8 stick without splitting.
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I reassembled the elevator a different way. Left side first, center hinge next, then the right side hinge. This seemed to work with a very small preload of the hinge, a lot less than the center. The elevator seems to rotate freely.
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This is personal preference but I do not like the supplied rubber grip that came with Kit #1. I like a simple textured motorcycle style grip that you find on the motorcycle throttle. The issue I am having is our Y control Stick tube diameter measures 1.140 which I am assuming is a 1-1/8 inch grip. My research shows that the majority of grips are for 1 inch or smaller. Has anyone found a supplier for a simple grip like the Ray Allen G205? According to Ray Allen, this will not fit. They suggested the G300 series which is more of a fighter pilot/gaming stick. What are you using????
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Update I used the bushing and a dab of fingernail polish on the end, inserted it on the elevator flange side, this produced a perfect ring mark You can see that the true center is right on the edge of the existing holes. I will end up with an oval hole. This is not good
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I totally agree that they should not have any pilot hole. Would have been much easier to mark and drill a nice hole
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Assembled the elevator on the end hinges. The center mounting flange hole definitely has issues #1 the hole in the Stab flange is 3/16 and the hole in the elevator flange is 0.235 for the bushing. #2 the holes do not line up, about 1/3 of a hole(the 0.235 hole)off. Construction manual shows the bushing going through both flanges *** Did you guys need to drill out the Stab flange like I need to?
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Update: Got a Irwin brand 10-32 die and hand traced the threads. Castle nuts now go on as they should. Remeasured the hinge pins on both sides, 0.190 - 0.191 Outer diameter of the bushing 0.235 AN3 bolt grip measured 0.185 Used #12 drill bit then #11 then #10 to ream out the bushings. Thank goodness it was brass. LoL Fits like it should now except now I noticed that the center mount holes are off quit a lot. Will need to study this more before I am tempted to drill
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IBOB Thanks for the reply. I really needed to confirm that it is A3. I will get a 10-32 die tomorrow morning and clean up the threads. Both sides are an issue. As far as the bushing, the grip/body of the hinge stud is about 0.005 larger than the AN3 bolts which is why the bushing will not slide over it. Thanks again for the help
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I am working on fitting all the ABS wing tips so I can paint them. During the trial fit of the Stab and Elevator, I discovered that the elevator hinge pin will not accept both the brass bushing and the castle nut. Chapter 23 page 4/10 I cannot slide the brass bushing SC210 completely over the hinge pin so to expose the hole for the cotter pin. In addition, the AN3 castle nut will not thread onto this hinge pin. I cleaned the threads, tried several different AN3 nuts without success, cuz the last thing I want to do is cross thread it. *** Am I supposed to use the AN3 nut????? Or is there a metric nut instead??? I searched through ALL the remaining hardware bags for an alternative to the bushing and the castle nut, nothing. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Bryan
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With your comments in mind, I ground down the trailing edge bracket which allowed me to match the alignment holes. Moved on to the tip which went well. A marvelous engineering job ICP did on this section.
