Balázs Dianovics

Thanks to everyone for the replies so far. You gave me great ideas and I am optimistic! I'm done with a small modification, but I've been sick, so unfortunately I haven't been able to reassemble and test it, but maybe soon. I still have a lot of faith in increasing the speed, and I try to block the air leaks before the first test. My question is, what kind of material should I use there, which can be shaped well and withstands the necessary heat? A rubber sheet would be good, for example, or epoxy resin painted and glued on fiberglass, or what would anyone recommend for sealing? In the attached image, I have marked in magenta what I want to block from the outflow path. I also found two rather large holes on the inner side of both flow pipes (also colored in the picture) that I would block. Maybe it would be used to connect the ignition cable, but I think I won't have a problem with it if I don't have a cable there and seal it.

There is no heatwave in the forecast (by the way, most of the flights are near Budapest and Dunaújváros, and Hungary is a very small area), but when there is a 3-5 day heatwave, the air temperature can exceed 40 degrees. One of the pop-up records can be seen in the picture. But of course this is an extreme time and the average is well below that. Thank you for the run-in parameters, but if I understood correctly, this can no longer be run-in, because they already do this with the engine at the factory before release.? Thanks for the ideas and suggestions, I'll try the small modifications and climbing at a higher speed (120 Km/h or more) in the next few days and I'll try to see if I can get away with modifying the cover and replacing the coller with a bigger one. Here, of course, I still have a question: if I can only do this at max speed, do I still not produce more heat than what the excess speed means in cooling? Of course, I would like to stay with the factory solutions, but I don't want this to come at the expense of usability. I hate fixing it and dealing with oily stuff, but I don't want to burn the engine either. Also, even then, before rebuilding, would it be great information that my own smaller refrigerator is really the common factory solution? Because if I understood correctly in my previous pictures, (the majority here said about my friends' larger refrigerator) that they use it, and it is almost 2.5 * thick than mine, but my friends replaced 100% the factory one, which was even smaller for them than mine... Although knowing this can bring peace of mind only for me, but sometimes it is also something 🙂

I was outside at the machine and started changing the oil. At first it struck me that the engineers had figured it out well, if I want to drain the oil, I have to remove the coller as well... I became "happy", but since the coller is about 3-4 mm from the wall of the oil pan, I will try to adjust it with a small modification, to see if it helps with the development of air flow. Also, I lighten the aluminum body of the side coller so that if I gain a few millimeters for the outflow there, it might also mean 2-3 degrees Celsius. It has also been closed from the side on the oil tank. Also, I hope to be able to change the oil later without removing the cooler this way. I have now put the material from my own machine (which has a newer engine and heats up) and the pictures of my friends' older engine machine, in which the cooler has been replaced and is running at a good temperature, on two links. Also, it seems that they significantly raised the collar from the engine so that the air can pass through and at a more perpendicular angle. However, their engine cover (as can also be seen) required modification and its air resistance may have increased a little. Well, at least they don't cook the machine... I don't know how I'm going to ventilate the coller when rebuilding, and I welcome any good ideas and advice. The weather in our country stays around 37-40 degrees Celsius even in summer, so I think it should still be able to handle that. What did you think of this? Also, I'm trying to get information about the walk-in engine, because in principle it had 3-4 hours in it when I took it over, and the seller will start the heating for that, so that I can use it, it will just run in and then the temperature will be good, but I'm afraid of that. I didn't find anything on the manufacturer's instructions for running in, and I don't know how long it can take and how to do it, if it really matters. There has been nothing similar for a smooth car for a long time, don't tow a load with it for the first 1000 Km. I was suddenly able to write so much, but in the seventh year I will try to answer the suggestions more precisely. PS: I measured the angle and it can be seen in one of the pictures that it is 135 degrees from the vertical. I also put in the instruments to see if anyone knows that a given type is not good, or cheats a lot, etc... pictures of my own machine: https://m.mdn.hu/photo/mo/sharing/zODeqaBtT My friend's machine: https://m.mdn.hu/photo/mo/sharing/LRkzn5VA3 Thank you for your help. Regards, Balázs

After my previous reply, I noticed that there was another page of replies. I did not expect this community to be so active, and I am grateful to you for the many great ideas. What I can answer right now, I'll do it quickly, then I'll go to the machine to get the rest of the information. If I understand correctly, by the way, most of the comments were about the cooler shown in the pictures, but for me, the much smaller (I think factory) cooler is above and my friends use the one shown in this picture, and I would replace it with a similar one if necessary, but they do not know the type of engine or car, according to which I could order one. Today I will also share my own pictures on a separate link, so it will be easier to separate the two machines. By the way, my already known answers: Angle and insulation of the cooler: The device is noticeably turned downwards (toward the ground), and I am surprised if the air passes through it properly, although it is diverted from the inlet opening with a rubber band and the leakage at the bottom is solved with a sponge, in the end maybe the back pressure forces the air into the slats, but I am surprised that the front of the crankcase is almost behind the entire surface. 3 mm close. So as if I were to mount the refrigerator on the wall, I don't know how much draft it can create, but in principle it is a "factory" solution. The speed of ascent was variable during the tests, but kept between 100-115 Km/h. In principle, the engine was a factory Fly Synthesis option and they installed it, moreover, since the first owner cut out the previous Jab engine in it during a few flights and supposedly this type has different installation parameters, so in principle the firewall was also rebuilt by the people of Fly Synthesis. I also saw some documents about these during the sale. Oil should cover the lowest, rippled section of the Jabiru dipstick. Until now, the oil was not up to the wavy part broken on the Z, but below it I interpreted the Striped pattern as the level and it is leveled up to the top, but if this is certain information, then I still have to fill it in. I didn't even dare to overfill because I heard that this could cause the seals to deform and be ejected, which I also wanted to avoid. Postscript: OZ, I'm sorry if I explained too much or if I didn't understand for sure, it wasn't my intention. Also, I don't understand why you wrote I give up... I didn't want to be such a hopeless case...

First of all, thank you for your quick reply OZ. Also, I apologize, I see that the uploading of my pictures was misleading, because it is not clear which one was taken from my own machine (I have not uploaded any pictures of my own oil cooler yet) and which one is the rebuilt version of my colleagues working at a good temperature (only these are visible in the photos above). Tomorrow I will go to the airport and take pictures of my own cooler and its mounting, and I will post the pictures of the two machines on two separate links. This will allow you to separate your own machine from that of your clubmates. Is it possible to know the dimensions of the normal factory refrigerator and perhaps the exact type of car from which it is made? Also, if it turns out that the performance of the cooler is low, what can be done without deviating from the factory and still not boiling the engine? Mainly because I read that it is quite sensitive to heating, which can cause serious operational problems later on. Also, between which markings on the oil level dipstick can the level be good? The stick in the pictures was only taken from mine, my friend's is completely straight (the friend's is an older engine). Thank you for the comment about the propeller perception, but I still don't understand it exactly, and it is possible that the photo was not my own, but I will clarify this as well and I will be very grateful if you look at it sorted and we can specify the error. Tomorrow I'll try to post the fresh photos as soon as possible and I'll also take down my refrigerator and save a little, see if it improves its efficiency enough and I don't even have to replace it. Until then, best regards: Balázs

Dear forum members! I am looking for solutions to the questions of my Storch HS Jabiru 2200A (Jab sn: 3823) powered UL airplane, purchased within a year, in barely used condition. I welcome any experience and suggestions. I have heating problems with the cylinder heads (which I may be able to control slowly by cutting out some radiators) but the oil is not so easy to handle. Because of these, the plane is normally unusable. I can only fly it for short tests. With a load of around 2000 RPM, it does not overheat according to the tests, but this is not enough even for the 0 vario. When taking off, I can spin at max speed for about 1.5-2 minutes, which allows me to reach 200-230m, so it would not be suitable for takeoff at a foreign airport on non-flat terrain. The club has a slightly older edition of a similar Storch (Jab sn: 1653) and I started to compare, but this question just kept me going. The old ones have a cooling fin on the oil pan. What could be the reason why, if this type has heating problems (as I often read), why does the manufacturer reduce the cooling surface? The new one has a steeper front of the turtle and even the oil dipstick is different. That's why I can't decide on my own whether the Z deformation on the stick is the level indicator or the cross-ribbed part below it? (attached picture) Unfortunately, the length of the rod in the other engine is also different. The oil cooler on the colleagues' machine also had to be replaced (due to heating, with a larger one), but they also had to adjust the engine compartment cover. Unfortunately, I no longer know the type of cooler, and I would like to receive offers on what I should replace, perhaps so that the Storch engine compartment cover does not have to be plasticized, at most cut out a little? Also, has anyone encountered a factory-glued tank in a Storch HS wing, because it leaks and we would take it out to repair it, but it is glued, which is necessary for the factory-screwed construction description. I would also like to receive an answer from the factory, but it is said that FlySynthesis does not speak directly to users...  I used to have a Storch HS 912 machine that I loved, but unfortunately I sold it. I'm crying now, because I had no problem with it, we only had two more children and I didn't have time for sports, but it was a good installation. https://m.mdn.hu/photo/mo/sharing/eNSE5KuWx