bones

What are you calling "solenoid enrichment valve" just that I have never read anything called that before? a search of the manual came up empty too.

RHT, mate you done just about everything except a couple of things, I have had my share of trouble shooting with these engines, it only takes a small leak somewhere to up set the apple cart. IMHO, the leaking fuel is not related to the power loss, more annoying than anything, there is no way that much pressure can escape through there, first off, make sure the pipes going to the turbo are seated properly, I have had 1 motor the bracket that holds everything in place, loosened, and(I think, long time ago) the exhaust rolled a small amount, and the top pipe was out of the socket, still sitting in there but not holding pressure(but it was still developing full power just a hell of a noise). Next check all the small black pressure lines, especially the ones going from the carbs to fuel pressure reg, it sounds like it could be dropping fuel pressure, do you get a rapid rise in EGT's? when the power loss happens. take them off and put your finger over one end and blow into them so if they hold pressure, trust me these are very important pipes. it is IMHO definitely turbo related as 36" is where the waste gate goes full closed, if all these things are good it could be turbo rebuild time, take your air intake pipe off, and see how much movement is in the main shaft, there should next to nothing side play, but a small amount of end float, check the compressor wheel, and turbine wheels on both sides. Obviously before you take the turbo off the machine(if you decide to), make sure as stated before that the TCU is set correctly, it obviously does the full travel test when the power is turned on? if it is, the TCU/ waste gate/ controller, that's the problem, there should be flashing lights to advise of a problem there. I have also had twice,(different motors) the waste gate motor just get that damn confused it "looses" it place and I took the cable off and turned the power on again, the motor does about 2 rotations then sets itself and all good then. Is this a new problem? how many hrs on the motor. Is there another 914 in the area? I would also try to swap test the air box pressure sender, ambient sender, in other words find another machine and swap senders out 1 at a time, see if you can find it that way. Good luck you will need it :)

His correlation needs adjusting, over speed when he sat it down :) Personally this is my choice

well you see im just too lazy for my own good, i put my finger on the button on the dash for about 2 secs then check oil works everytime

i had my first turbo charged rotax that put out 135hp 7 yrs ago, want more power 5 mins and you can have 180hp if you wanted, you can buy the whole engine ect ready to strap in for about 30k, the aftercooler isnt mounted yet in this photo, but yes it is a must to keep the intake temps down so as to stop predetonion, and obviously because of the heat no carb ice, so it fixes everything.

http://www.news.com.au/national/queensland/pilot-dies-in-tragic-helicopter-crash-50km-northwest-of-barcaldine/story-fnii5v6w-1226915241057

i over nighted there a few years ago, found a lift into town for a motel, and a taxi back out in the morning, the "walk" down town that night to find a feed was a bit interesting, not a lot of reflective people around. But i never had a problem with the airport it is fenced fairly well, and i cant remember the code for the gate(very high fence :) )

The builder of these machines died of cancer not long after starting to build them, how ever he was a LONG time gyro guy, he made rotors blades for many many years, i have never personally flown in one, but i would near bet my left nut they flew good, so i would think it may have been pilot error or pilot incapasition. Gyros can handle near anything mum nature can throw, its the nut behind the stick that determines everything (as usual), i have flown into places that i knew it was going to be hellishly rough and turbent but i had to bacuse the cattle were there, 1 particular spot had claimed about 2 R22 helos, the worse thing you can do in that situation is try and go fast to get out of it, slow and steady will be the order of the day. as long as the down drafts are not stronger than your max climb rate your fine, if not then well you got a rebuild coming up. Here is another tip, turbulence and rotor ect stops at the tree tops (Normally) so if your 1' above the trees your usually safe from going down any further. Yes PIO and PPO usually start with excess speed.

good luck with that, no matter which one you decide on there is another "latest techno" panels or inverter out the next week. We put a 4 kw system on the roof about 2 years ago, went from(back then, damn hate to think what it would be now) anything up to $5-600 a quarter, to getting a $2-300 refund each quarter, it not the refund i care about but the not having the bill is the main thing, but the up front big $$$$ was a hard swallow.

The only trouble i had with the EQ was every now and again 1 set would just not send and recieve, had to turn off the master switch and reset the unit, then turn it all on again and all good, only happened a couple of times from memory.

i was actually using(oh i shouldnt) the search feature and it popped up so it was sort of relivent to the thread title. Thanks Russ

Another side question relating to the 160, what are the differences between the C & D, if that is just a model change when did this happen?

have a look at these cheap as and they are a good unit. http://www.mglavionics.com/html/velocity_singles.html scroll down to this unit, TC-2 4-channel Thermocouple Monitor or try this one; TC-3 12-channel Thermocouple Monitor Either for about $350 and the AU dealer is a very helpful guy, if there is any trouble you ring him and he talks you through everything, he even sent a unit up on the bench for me when i was having trouble. I just found the local guys contact details if anyone wants them; [email protected]

Russ, had the same problem on 1 of the machines i reassembled, had me scatching head for a long time until i found, the owner had tied the aerial cable to the front light power wire, same thing only every now and again until one day we were flying and i turned on the light as other AC came into the circuit, and the radio went crazy. So check all the wires and where they run, and try turning off everything to see if the radio behaves normally, i personally would leave the big fan on though :) I presume the radio is working fine otherwise? good transmit and recieve?

Well this has got me absolutely stumped now, i have run new wires directly to the battery tried different aerials and removed possible cause from the dash, and now the bl**dy voltage spikes are going to 33-35 volts how and WTF is going on is beyound me, so tomorrow i am taking the whole lot out of the AC and going to try it all on the bench,all else fails its all going back to Microair to see if they can work it out.

Yep some head sets just dont work together, sometimes a expensive set dont work as good and or clear as a $150 set, it the dark art. Ok how is this for a problem from far LEEEFFFTTT field. Got a 760/uhf combo, now this was working perfectly in old A/C, when i removed them when i sold it, so i mounted it all in today, all seemed good after a quick test, so decided to take it for a fly to air test, after about 6 secs of transmitting the VHF turns off, WTF, turn it off and back on try it again same thing it shuts down. hmmm so i landed got multimeter(MM) out thinking i got a bad power drop causing it to shut down. 12.5v going to VHF, press PPT and the MM now reads 23v, WTF, thinking my MM is shagged, i go over and borrow a freshly calibrated MM off the Lame next door, and it tells me the same thing, press PPT goes to 23-24v. on the UHF side it is normal about 12.5v, press PPT it drops to about 12.1v so it is something to do with the VHF. This was with the motor not running either. Rang Microair and you could hear the cogs turning, never heard of it before, nd swears there is nothing inside the radio that could double the voltage if it was playing up. So any ideas??????? how the hell is it doubling the voltage, i should hook it up as a alternator i think :)

The funniest part of it waqs the little bi, it took the longest to go past, and was probably at VNE love the sound of the spits ??

That is the whole purpose of the thermostat, is to keep most of the oil out of the cooler until it reaches the right temp to open the thermostat. How many times has your thermostat in your car failed?, and also even if the thermostat did fail it doesnt block all the oil it still lets approx half through, so you will have hot oil but it might not be over the max, good bit of gear in my mind anyway, i use them all the time never had a problem, and as for the weight, they weight maybe 1/4kg if your that close to your limits i think you got bigger issues. Now for water temp dont worry about the cooler the better, it is only the heads that are being read, so the cooler the head the better the combustion nd ie fuel burn/comsuption. well thats the way i think of it anyway, my 2 cents worth

Ok guys just got a call from a owner in Southern WA, looking for a supplier of 8.00x6 tyres any leads for over that way?

Why what wrong with my avatar? dont you like peanut?

You just KNOW you're only a weekend pilot when. . . . . Umm you only fly on the week ends ??

I dont know mate, i had nothing to do with the sale as it turned out, i doubt much at all though, after what he just sold his machine for.

Well the black boxes checked out fine at Floods, so i need to get back there and refit the boxes to the original motor to see if it still playing up or if it was a bad connection that fitting the other boxes fixed Will let you all know what happens.

motor now gone thanks

A lot going on past history