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Moneybox

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Everything posted by Moneybox

  1. Siri says 175 euro is $221. I don't think I'm going to do any better than that and I get the genuine part.
  2. Sean, I looked at these but the OD has gone the other way. They are 47mm and the frame only has a 42mm recess to fit them in.
  3. I found this in Czechoslovakia. It's a bit more attractive than a $1000+ here. I've just sent a message to a Czech mate to get his suggestion on how to buy.
  4. Yes these are not a god fit. The mounting hole in my engine frame is 30.5mm. That means that "E" will have 10mm clearance in the hole. It's never going to hold the engine in the right place. Overall dimension "A" is 33.3mm to cover a 30.5mm hole in the frame. Hit the throttle for a go-around and the engine will leave without the aircraft 🤪
  5. Good idea, where's that Rapture guy?
  6. I can't see me being happy with any of these mounts so far. The centre rubber is only 20mm when I need 30mm to support the frame. I could simply make up a bush to take up the slack but then I have a problem with the OD. It's only 33mm and with a hole in the frame at 30mm it's barely hanging on. That's unless I've read it wrong but that's never happened before 😇
  7. This might do the job to some extent although the E-size is only 20mm inserted into a 30mm hole in the housing?
  8. I've just removed one for a look. I'll take some measurements.
  9. I'd like to think oil wouldn't get to the firewall. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282619998576?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=282619998576&targetid=2370955762951&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9070701&poi=&campaignid=21766114506&mkgroupid=168279963077&rlsatarget=pla-2370955762951&abcId=10047372&merchantid=116482553&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArva5BhBiEiwA-oTnXT9iMnI5oiIcr9uRKu4dvavDSPITMGcNUW2Yl0hiGLgb7L1i3KFFURoCG0cQAvD_BwE I've not confirmed that these are suitable but they look to be about right. They say other sizes available.
  10. I like to support local suppliers but sometimes they don't do their best to support us. I bought both my pumps from Evektor and even with the import freight I saved a considerable amount of money. I got a tube of Wacker P12 paste thrown in too 😀 Reduces vibration Accommodates high shock forces Reduces stress on brackets and fabrications Can absorb shock efficiently for millions of cycles Sandwich either side of mounting hole to “float ” the fixing bolt Has strong metal core What’s in the box: 4 X 2 part bushing Other sizes available on request Bushings “float ” the mounting bolt Diameter: 33mm Male part flange height: 12.3mm Washer height 12.3mm Mounting hole diameter: 20mm Overall height: 34mm Washer -hole diameter - 14mm Metal core runs the length of the male part I'll need two of these...AU $53.49 each set
  11. I guess they are Shock absorber mounts from a particular type of motor vehicle or aftermarket shock absorber. Any suspension specialist should be able to come up with them. I can't see any good reason to replace the cupped washers.
  12. I just received a quote for the 8 engine mount rubbers from Bert Flood. 860695 Shock Mount Set ( $925.90 + GST ( In Stock ) Now I've worked out why they call them Shock Mounts 🤣
  13. Hopefully Rotax don't lower their standards to meet a price challenge. Sometimes a company with a good reputation fails miserably to keep up quality control. Take Australian company Codan as an example. They produce a range of metal detectors under the Minelab brand. Their old products where they developed a very good reputation were exceptional in build quality, performance and endurance. In recent years they have started producing rubbish. Their machines still perform well but fail more often than not. These products sell at premium prices but usually fail before the operator manages to become familiar with the controls. Most people would use these machines in remote areas operating for days to weeks at a time and their new machines often fail to last those few weeks. The only reason they continue to sell their products is that there is no effective competition. Their warranty service is good but that doesn't help the poor sole who only had three weeks off work and travelled 1000km or more before being let down by a brand new machine from what used to be a reputable company. Competition is good for price control but build quality and endurance are more important especially when you have a long way to fall.
  14. I haven't finished watching these videos but I think they blow the story that these engines are an exact copy of the Rotax. I have no doubt they have been developed from the Rotax but you don't turn out a range of engines like this overnight. It looks to me as though there have been years of development and testing so I'd be confident to purchase their products.
  15. The problem is that it's a bit of a hit and miss when you buy from these developing countries. I remember when we first bought stationary engines from Japan, they came with a spare piston and rings, a set of spanners and various other parts. Some of the Chinese stuff is the same, you might get a good model but you could end up with something like the Kia Carnival when it came out. You were very lucky if you got 50,000km before throwing the engine in the bin and because of the reputation they built most of the vehicles ended up scrapped. Compare that to the early Hundai Excel, you couldn't kill them. Hopefully their aircraft engines have been thoroughly tested. The ZONSEN price has pretty much doubled since the first video clip from three years ago so I guess that's a good sign.
  16. Please explain? I just stated the tank is right against the back of the seat so there'd be little difference with the tank full or empty.
  17. I've not checked it out however the tank is right up against the back of the seat so there'd be little difference to the balance. The wife and I will only total 125kg so we'll have lots of weight to spare but it's a case of where to put it. 310kg tare weight and max 550kg.
  18. I'll only have 60L in the one tank. I've thought about a metal outboard motor tank that can be plugged in and jus flick the pump switch when needed but weight and balance come to play.
  19. I think squeezing all of the air out would eliminate the expansion problem if you just had perhaps half a bladder of fuel left. I've never tried it but I think it would have to reach boiling point to create more vapor.
  20. I stopped using the plastic jerry cans for two reasons. If we store fuel in the boot of our bus/camper we don't sleep well. The fumes pass right through the plastic. If we use the metal cans then we don't even know they are there. The other reason is that I've had a few expand to the point of splitting and spraying a fine mist of petrol into the air. They blow up like a balloon but for some reason the steel cans keep their form even though they have quite high pressure that is released upon opening. I can't see me ever risking the use of anything plastic in our climate. I can see the value in the layflat bladder for short term use but I wouldn't like to ride beside one loaded with fuel.
  21. Yes Skippy I did buy quite a bit locally. I got the tyres from Bush Aero with just $20 delivery to Cue, the hoses from Repco, Mako Services and Run Auto Parts and the carburettor kits and oil filters from Bert Flood and engine oil and ACF50 from the Flight Store but some items I wanted to be sure I got the right parts. I bought the safety wire and pliers from Clear Prop and the Odyssey battery from Goodchild Enterprises. The correct electric fuel pump was important because of the pressure and flow requirements so I bought the mechanical pump from the same place. Next was the 4mm hydraulic pipes for the propeller and brakes, I wanted to be sure the end fittings matched the components. The gas struts for the canopy, I've bought these things aftermarket plenty of times and more often than not the end fittings are wrong so I ordered original. I'm replacing all the external screws for fairing and other bits, I wanted original screws. I know I could have found the landing lights here but like everything else I wanted to get the right ones that just fit. The rubber joystick grips were a total of $8 so I had to buy original ☺️ Because I was already paying freight I tried to buy the Wacker P12 paste there too.
  22. I don't have deep pockets but before I started on this flying thing I sold some assets to fund the training and the plane. I don't have a weekly wage, I'm retired without superannuation or a pension but because I built my little piggy bank I'm prepared to spend a few bucks on the things that matter. I will usually look for cheap options but I'm new to this aeronautical stuff so I find myself buying the more expensive option sometimes hoping to stay safe. Tyres and tubes are a good example. I bought Condor, a very expensive option but I imagine trying to control a take-off or landing on a flat tyre might be a little hazardous for a new pilot and some of the areas I might use as airstrips might test a cheaper tyre beyond its intended use. I ordered some parts direct from Evektor Australia hoping to get the right part for the job but that hasn't worked out too well. It's been about three weeks so far and even though all parts were in stock in Czechoslovakia they haven't left yet and I want to get things moving. Perhaps the cheaper locally sourced parts might still be the best option.
  23. The way I see it is if it is a factory built LSA then it cannot be run on condition. If it is factory built and has a Type Certificate (not LSA) then it can be changed to run on condition.
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