Mike Green

Hey, Nev No criticism was intended in either of those paragraphs, believe me. I'm not well up on computers and the pictures arrived a bit late. I meant that you were all working in the dark, and I appreciate the help and the spirit. Anyway, the canopy now has a working stop. I'd like to finish the job myself, but will find out whether such small parts are stocked. All the best, Mike

I'm back. Several days ago, as I said, seeking advice I looked on this site and quickly found a conversation between two blokes on exactly my problem - caused , one of them claimed, by "hamfisted passengers getting in and out" - slamming the canopy back too violently, presumably. But I've failed to find it again despite putting various phrases in the search box. I thought one of the people was you, Nev, but it seems you are not on intimate terms with the Sierra. The right-side pin co-operated so I was able to raise the edge of the canopy and replace the sheared pop-rivets of the travel stop bracket on that side, so the travel is now controlled. I'll try penetrating oil on the left handle, think about a modified G-clamp and enquire of Tecnam's U.S. branch about a replacement handle and pin, or if all else fails a latch assembly. For those of you helpers who have been guessing about something you've not seen, I've attached pictures from the maintenance manual. The steel pin is solid, not a roll pin. Although only 2-3mm diameter and 13mm long, it has a v-shaped longitudinal groove cut in the central part, swelling it slightly and whose sharp edges presumably help its grip. It has a name but I can't think of it... Thanks to all. It's good to keep the little grey cells active. Mike Sierra canopy latch 1.pdf Sierra Canopy latch 2.pdf

Hello Nev . Thanks for this. For the first one I was able, using as a drift the butt end of a drill bit of the same diameter, to drive the pin through enough that I could grasp the other end with pliers and pull it through. The pin has a split cut down one side, whose edges help it grip, I guess. But the second doesn't want to budge. It's a hard material only 2-3mm dia., and I doubt that I could drill it out without harming the ali. handle. I don't understand the cutting disc suggestion - the pin doesn't protrude either side... Regards, Mike

Yesterday I found a conversation on this site about repairing damaged travel stops on Sierra canopy rails, but today I can't find it. If the blokes involved read this would they please put up their hands? I have a Sierra in Canada, and last week as I took off the canopy opened and slammed aft to the stops. I'd not latched it ( I know, I know - Check Lists!). It jammed and could not be closed so I flew the forty miles back to my field with it open, tossed about on a particularly gusty day. Consulted the maintenance manual and today investigated, finding that some of the little pop-rivets had sheared. Tackled the job today and one side co-operated and was repaired, but the steel pin through the other aluminium handle won't move. What methods did you use or can you suggest to shift the bugger? All suggestions gratefully received. Mike Green, Toronto .

Interesting photos, but the text! Photo captions for the blind. They appear to have been written by the same person who perpetrated those accompanying the Vampire article a couple of weeks ago; also from The Mail Online.

Well, my 2003 Echo Super, which I bought six years ago, has a third setup. It was previously on amphibious floats with castoring nosewheels so required differential braking. The owner's solution was to add a second hydraulic cylinder and fit two close-set levers on the centre console, operated by two fingers with either the same or differing pressures as required. Rather like the fiddle brakes used on trials cars - well, they used to be like that in England. It works well, although unlike toe brakes it does tie up one of one's hands while braking. And you can't order this from the factory.

Well, I did remove the doors (the work of a moment) a couple of times this last summer - first a circuit just in case, and then nice low jaunts around the countryside. No handling changes, and 60kts was exceeded. It was very pleasant; a bit breezy, but not uncomfortable. and I shall probably do it again from time to time. Can't take anything that's not tied down, of course. The best thing to come from my query was that Bruce Stark very kindly e-mailed me a copy of the flight maual for my aircraft. Wish we had a dealer like him in Canada - well, any dealer at all would be nice... Mike C-IRIC

Thanks for the feedback, chaps. I'd expected considerable breeziness in the cabin, but had not thought about an effect on the control surfaces. Since you say that the practice is permitted I may give it a try next summer, out of curiosity. Spin, perhaps the reason you were allowed to do this only in the 150 is that it was worth less than the 152's. "Check the POH". Now that would be a luxury. I bought my Echo Super second-hand and all I got was a Service Manual for a standard Echo with several pages missing and the Rotax Operator's Manual for the engine - nothing at all about flying the thing. The previous (original) owner did give me quite a bit of instruction, however. Since then I've scoured the internet and found, first, a booklet from the Chesapeake Sport Flyers in the US on Standard Operating Procedures and Maneuvers for Echo Super and Eaglet, and more recently two manuals produced by Tecnam for the American LSA version of the Echo Super; Flight Manual and Line Maintenance Manual. So I'm now not too badly off, although there's nothing in these books about flying without doors (American lawyers, probably). Can anyone point me to any other useful literature on these aircraft?

Has anyone out there tried flying a high-wing Tecnam with the doors removed? The non-opening windows are inconvenient when taking photographs and limit ventilation and just the fun of flying al fresco. Here in Canada it's getting a bit cool now to try it this year, but maybe next summer. Down under, of course, summer is on it's way but the doors may required to keep out the flies. Any comments?

Thanks for the welcome, lads. Around this time each year I begin to think that I should have migrated South instead of West. My wife and I visited Oz for the second time this year('09), spending all of April with friends and family in Launceston, Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney. Sudbury is about 350 km from Toronto as the fly crows so is not exactly in the area, although if you're in Perth I guess you'd claim ANY reachable community as a neighbour. My relatives are in Kalamunda. I learned to fly in Canada. Don't have a British licence, so don't know about transferability. When I lived in the UK it seemed as though the ordinary person didn't do exotic things such as flying aeroplanes or playing golf. Golf has changed, but flying seems terribly expensive and suffers from too little uncontrolled airspace and too much weather. Many Brits go to the States to train more cheaply and quickly (weather again) so there must be a lot of credit given for a foreign licence, but the new recreational/sport pilot type permits might vary more. I'm sure you could find out via the internet.

I'm a Pom who's lived in Toronto, Canada for many years. Learned to fly in 1973, rented Cessnas for some years then let it drop. Three years ago I started again from scratch, resumed renting but found it inconvenient. For years I had daydreamed about building something, most recently a Sonex, but finally admitted that I work too slowly and would probably turn my toes up before completing the thing. I looked at various types to buy before discovering Tecnams. There are only 18 in total in Canada, but I found three used ones on the market - two Echos and an Echo Super, which is the one I bought eight months ago. I've spent 70 enjoyable hours in it so far. It has pretty good performance, likes auto fuel, is factory-designed and built but is classed "advanced ultralight" which means that I am permitted to maintain it - so I'll be posting a few questions to you Tecnam guys.