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geoffreywh

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Everything posted by geoffreywh

  1. I am considering selling mine. 133 hours from complete overhaul , (that is, 1670 hrs to run) lightweight everything. I'm not quite sure , But I can talk to you if you like....What you going to put it in?
  2. Flying the Jodel is fairly easy. I pay attention to the balance ball, a lot... Landing is a breeze except in a brisk crosswind, solution? avoid . The speed at which you cross the threshold will govern the type of landing. Calm conditions ? then ultra slow will give you tailwheel first. (40- knots) A little windier then three point if you like, 40knots+ ?.... Anything else then 60 knots (approach, touchdown speed is less) will wheeler it on. This is the easiest to do. I ignore all comments about ground loops and have not yet even come close to one. Do what you have to do to keep it (fairly) straight. Mine is larger (I think) A D11. Almost all approaches are glides....about 60 minus knots.... Over the fence stick coming back steadily and no throttle. ...A pussy cat....Enjoy yourself ... when in doubt faster is safer.
  3. To get even weight you have to get a large piece of timber and have it sawn into planks then laminate the planks reversing every other one. That evens out the density discrepances
  4. Bex's is not a piston ported twostroke, his has poppet valve (s) . The one shown going into the machining centre had no cylinder head, but what appeared to be ports in the cylinder. That's what it looked like to me anyway...Personally I'd rather see a sleeve valve jobbie
  5. no....................can't see anything funny and I've a GREAT sense of humour
  6. a choice would be a good idea
  7. Limiting? how about bloody difficult to get right all the time....Should the mains not be only as far back as necessary to stop the tail dropping at a standstill? I can lift my tail dragger by the tail comfortably and wheel it around. Which must mean that the mains are very near (or on) the c of g.....By the same token how much pressure must be applied to the tail of a Morgan to lift the front wheel? If it's lots then maybe the main wheels are too far back.....Were that the case then even CFI,s might find it troublesome to land three pointed all the time.
  8. There is , available from Enzed hoses, a wire coil with stiffening rib attached that goes over the outside of the hose to hold it in a particlar shape, I used it on my fuel tube to bypass the exhaust pipe.
  9. lose the nose wheel and the problem goles away.............
  10. What you talking about? "No advantage would have been gained for anyone by reporting this" Of course, letting people know that incorrect ground operation may entail losing a valve seat is not valuable infomation? What a crock. Why report anything then? ................ Why share any experience? AFAIC Sharing is spreading knowledge gained by you (at your cost) for the assistance of others...Of course, if you live in a vacuum
  11. starting to look good too. I like the integration of components. Complex to think thru, but simple to carry out. nice. "Grove type" main u/c legs? don't forget tailwheel mount!
  12. even a broken conrod is not going to let a piston out. How about broken cylinder ? Cylinder off, then the piston is set free! At least thru, bolts would have been ok?
  13. rigid and nylon? a contradiction. very thick walled alloy? why not get 4130 steel? available from our local shop, could be the same weight as the alloy tubing for the size you require?
  14. Oh Dear, Just when I thought we had finished with that...
  15. if the rotax is heavier shorten the nose or lighten the tail or both
  16. aaaah what a shame. t'was a lovely aeroplane
  17. Jab props are very light. They have to be a type of Pine mines weighs a considerable amount more
  18. My Richard Sweetapple prop is made from "Victorian Ash" A species of gum tree, Nice to work and sands nicely, not prone to splitting. I would laminate at least 6 layers as the glue lines will help in carving....
  19. there are at least 2 types. some have a tapered "block" at the wheel end (for adjusting toe in?) some are plain flat ended . So it may not be fit and forget?...
  20. OH yes VG's , I've been using / working with them since the early seventies. BUT if you are telling me that one VG thingy out of place on a thirty foot wing caused a serious problem then I need to be doing something else as this thread has just gone to the dogs. .
  21. go with invigorators or turbulators (which ever you like to call them) .. Great sucsess on my D11. got mine in QLD about 6 years ago. They will drop the stall a little and the aeroplane will be easwier to control at low speeds
  22. I found, on an engine I am rebuilding, that the rust build-up and flaking silver paint effectively blocked some cool fins on all of the cylinders. I had the cylinders basted ( fine garnet) to clear the rubbish and painted them. "Wattyl" Industrial etch primer sticks to a clean surface like glue. Great improvement over factory silver
  23. i've got an Jab oil cooler you may have
  24. Ah yes, airflow over the sump. Did you know that the cooling fins are on the wrong side? they should be on the inside. The oil pick-up sucks red hot oil that sits on a layer of nice (relatively) cold oil just above the surface of the sump. Want to help? some nice tapered spikes or short ribs welded? to the inside of the sump....A'la AJS porcupine. What about painting the barrels black?....Maybe coarse sand blasting the cooling fins?
  25. fotos please to show flat plate. Please
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