geoffreywh

I'm going to put a Rotec on my Jodel. So you can buy my Continental 0-200?

you come back to the same problem every time, The only replacements (as yet) are expensive ( $10K + more.) and/or unproven. The Jab 6 was/is? a nice R.A.A. engine. Cheap,powerful, (but with reliability problems for some) Probably the closest price/weight alternatives are all Auto Conversions. Honda Jazz . Suzuki Geo or Take-off BMW, or, if you have ground clearance and want an aviation engine? then ROTEC takes the biscuit. Maybe just hope that the "chinese" Jab works out well. (excuse sobbing sound)

Australian manufacturing is hampered by many things, not least being the cost of doing business. I read that Ford workers in Thailand get $6.00 per hour. It cost about $100 per hour to have a skilled worker here. AND we have such a small home market. CAMit was faced with the daunting prospect of having to export immediately to achieve enough sales to survive. I was in Rotec yesterday and the enterprise is quite small, but obviously very efficient, with an excellent product. But I bet it's still not an easy way to make money.....Maybe CAMit was too big?. When his best customer walked he had no back up....

1000 engines per year?..................Whomsoever believed that really , really had his head up his arse.....................100 per year, that sounds credible......

but it's all water under the bridge now....:crying:And where are those engines (Camit) that have been fitted , then removed? I haven't seen a single one for sale...and if you can belt drive an alternator you sure as hell can belt drive a pump!

I read that there is a lack of spare parts ? ("There are over 7000 Jab motors around the world with very little or no more spare parts available") What is this based upon. I'm rebuilding an engine and the bits needed have arrived nicely (so far) thankyou... ..That aside , I really feel for Ian (Camit,) , he put a lot of time and effort into engine development and there appeared to be a really good market. I also read of a Forum person willing to fit a Lycoming 235? I would have thought that the 235 might be a bit much for the Jabiru. (Prop Diameter for one thing) and weight, although I completely understand the figuring behind the choice. (Durability, Longevity, Stability of Supply ect) The Camit six was perfect.....Oh Well, My Continental is looking better and better!

As soon as Camit started producing and selling their "own" engines it was bound to end in tears. Imagine if you were a manufacturer and your main supplier started selling a version of "your" product? You would look to cut them off ASAP. Even if it does spite your face for a bit..T'was inevitable in my opinion .

Well It blew an absolute gale here in the south all day. There is no way I could have landed anywhere. Next time lets have in in the Autumn Please......

Just checked the latest weather, there's no way I can get back safely on Sunday..... 55kph northerly predicted, more on the coast......... Bugger! I had gone to a lot of trouble to arrange this weekend...Have a good time those that can go....

Has there been any input from the Jab factory about removing the NACA inlet? It sounds very promising. The 24 reg people would like to know....

Going out looks OK....The flight home (Tooradin, Vic. ) on Sunday looks horrible, Great tailwind all the way But a 20 something knot Northerly will whip up bad turbulance in the lee of the hills. So coming in on 04 with bad turbulance is BAD news....My only option is ( I think ) is to leave here lunchtime Friday and get going home Saturday after lunch. Makes it a short stay doesn't it?

I agree. I never saw Loctite used on a crankcase bolt, big end , main bearing bolt ect., until I saw a Jabiru...I thought it was highly suspect and to say the least, unusual....Although I realise that the aviation industry is hamstrung by "Certification". I was rebuilding my 0-200 a while ago, The guys in the engine shed said" come and see us when you are ready to assemble the c/case and we'll show you how to use silk thread and permatex." I didn't laugh out of respect. But politely declined and used Yamaha Three Bond. Never leaked a drop. whilst Certified Engines leak like a sieve. Certification locks things into the 19th century.Unfortunate at times.

That is , of course, possible, but not likely. Early motorcycles ( up to 70's) often used them. Guzzi's used many. on Jap bikes they were mainly used on the final drive sprocket. The nut would loosen, the tab would hold on and the gearbox shaft would be hammered to hell by the now loose sprocket or clutch drum. That was sometimes from new. loctite cured the problem. when i rebuilt a Guzzi. there would be a icecream container full of the things (almost). and i rebuilt lots.Never had a problem after you threw them away. get a hold of Carol Shelby's book on fasteners, re: NASCAR preparation it's an eye opener.. Really

Tab washers?... I have, so often knocked back the tab and undone the nut by hand. Really miserable level of safety.....

uncool comment Bex. How about save 1200 Australian lives p.a. by not travelling in cars? I cant find stats on "cause of death- poor visibility due to angle of vision , but I would be unpleasantly surprised if it was more than 3

Has anybody used the "Bad Elf GPS" (about $280 in Australia ) It's basically a GPS receiver for wifi devices. I was thinking of moving my AVMAP along and using mu ipad air.

so where is the pilot's bum relative to the spar? The turtledeck has no formers or lengthways support? wood wood be nice....

K75/100/1100 fuel pressure is 36psi

I assume you are fitting a trim tab that can be altered in flight? ( I have a Jodel mechanical one as per drawing you may have) Just set it level with the tailplane and the tab at mid-stroke and alter as needed, you can easily overcome trim tab effect with joystick pressure. (Ask me how I know) .... Bore glazing ( eyes glazing) The procedure that I have lived with for many years ( since 1963 when I first worked on Jap bikes) ) Is that ; Accelerate hard (from new) in third and fourth up a slight gradient. maybe 500 meters. Then back off the gas until engine slows considerably. Brake using engine only . Cruise in lower gear and cool oil/engine. 2 or 3 times that will run in rings nicely. The theory being, 1st accelerate, WOT @ medium revs raises cylinder pressures, quite high I expect. Rings run hard against cylinder walls, before cylinder walls have a chance to glaze the rings will have bedded in. Backing off the gas until engine slows gives a high vacuum in the cylinder and drags oil up past the rings and burns off cylinder debris. This does work. Is the theory is correct ? I'm not a scientist.......... BUT it did work and work well. NOT on UK produced machines, if you did that on an Ariel or BSA it would seize. When the 851's came out (Nikasil bores) we did this straight out of the crate. We had so many customers coming in complaining of oil burning (smoky exhaust) So we fitted new rings and honed the bores then ran them in, in about 15 minutes. . This method may well translate directly to aviation engines. Step climb and cruise? It's what I did with my new rings ( cast iron rings steel bores) and my engine uses no oil , and for a Continental that's really good, if not remarkable.

workshop's a bit small for building a RV?

F**k it!....That's going to be a bugger to get those bloody great, painted on, numbers from under my Jodel wing...........I remember what it was like getting them on there....... I know it only says "no longer required" But you wouldn't want anything painted on the wing that you don't need, would you?

As an L2 I will not be doing any signing. I may inspect out of friendly curiosity or interest. But get someone else to sign it off. You will carry the responsibility forever.

I would stay away from VW's Don't just make do with the engine, you'll kick yourself later if you do.....

A Camit engine might be the way to go if a Rotax is out of the question, Will certainly be cheaper, Jabiru (if you dare) are flogging rebuilt engines quite cheaply......

I would have thought that a Rotax 2 stroke was not eminentely suitable for a D18? ..............Keep looking for a Rotax 80hp. They come up for sale fairly frequently. I would also reject all ex VW types.....A Jabiru would be cheap but that's a place I might not want to go either. I have some instruments if you need anything.