seb7701

Jack, when you’re proclaiming “This was the aircraft”, you probably want to be sure. That’s not the same aircraft. Looking just now, the strut braced one came off the pilot’s facebook profile.

Just curious, From what I can see of the news photos of the crashed aircraft, it’ seemed to be a wire braced drifter as opposed to this picture of a strut braced model??

RPC to RPL - 6.4hrs including 1.5 hr BFR/check flight.

Yep, got that issue too....

That's interesting re the single ECU as I wondered if the double ECU was the preferable option or not, but good to see the single setup is giving good service. Make no mistake, I think it looks like a brilliant system for a very reasonable price!!

Well, if it's any help I made an enquiry in November as to cost for a 4cyl and here's what you're in for- Shipping cost is good, but the add-on, (mostly necessary I would think too...) do tend to add up. The single ECU, single pump setup is $3100US. Other options: 2nd pump $160 Dual ECU $1200 Wideband kit $150 Cyl. fuel trim $300 Fuel flow $100 PC data logging $100 Air mail shipping would vary between about $110-$145 depending on options.

Not at all very ingenious I know, but I just shine a torch from the top and the 'ol AVGAS lights up pretty well... I have actually got an MGL fuel flow instrument which also has a gauge in it. If you're after a panel mounted gauge, it could be the go?

Yep, they mention limited availability. Either would be fine I'm sure, but so far I do really dig mine!

I had to replace an Icom and ended up with an MGL V10. Great piece of kit with some good filtering abilities also, not to mention the inbuilt intercom etc. Also had great assistance from both local distributor as well as the South Africa, as I think it was actually one of the designers who replied last I had a question. Just another good option if you need it...

Bruce, here’s a shot from this morning where you will see a difference in the camber, although it’s prob not ideal even now, though works just fine. The legs just lose their stiffness it seems and sag a little. The indicator in last nights photo is when you look and imagine what kind of shimming would be required to get things right which is how I realised there was too much curve / sag in the middle section of the legs. I wouldn’t look at trying to fix them when the replacement cost was pretty reasonable for something with 180 layers of glass in them. It sounds like you might be following in my footsteps - my originals were new in around 2002. Here’s the new pics. PM me if you like - happy to duck you my number and have a yarn

As M61A1 mentioned, the video of Wayne's tells you it's 'filament tape' which was used around the foam formers and also mentions the size. I got some a while back, so it's around. It also illustrates how to tension the skins. If they aren't rotten, perhaps they could be tightened up a little in the interim if there's enough fabric tail left to get a grip on. I'm afraid they all end up oil stained in the end...

Bruce - I was amazed at the tyre wear I saw between a couple of photos of mine when I realised how little time was between when they were taken them. Anyhow, my Jab took off and landed ok, but I just didn't seem as I would have expected and used to wander a little unexpectedly and at times deliver some interesting 'sideways' type behaviours too. It seemed like the legs were fighting each other a little at times. Anyhow, Jab advised that the older straight gear legs do let go over time, although they hadn't see an actual failure. The crux was when I looked at the camber opposite to what it should have been and realised that correction with shims etc would be absolutely impossible, as the legs themselves had too much curve in them. That when common sense told me the legs had gone floppy!!! Replacement legs were around $600, upgraded to the bigger gear bolts while I was at it. Very straightforward job and totally transformed the takeoffs and landings - dead straight and that was without a wheel alignment or camber adjustment. Totally different!!! Here's the before shot when you can see the incorrect camber- I can take a snap of the 'after' if you need it...just cant find one atm...

The manual states a smidge of toe is is recommended. Is it tracking straight and true? I only ask as I had ridiculously accelerated tyre wear, but also some interesting behaviours on roll out etc. which turned out to be worn gear legs. New ones transformed it and not with any great attention to alignment.

Thanks for checking Ken, as I must admit, that video would be the most interesting thing yet, given I have actually been checking for smoke machines to try just that very experiement!! Nonetheless, the lower cowl shots seem to be quite similar to what I have been seeing on the lower cowl of whats now seems quite a famous RV4 of american airflow 'guru' Dave Anders. He had curved bits on his firewall to 'arrange' the flow outwards, like yours. (I'll see if I can find the shot of his...) Two things I have been wondering about yours (yes, I actually have been...) 1. I don't suppose it's ever best tested without the balance hose between the ducts? (I have been infinitely curious as to whether that would help...) 2. How the intakes on yours compare to mine, as many have opened theirs up quite a bit from the older style top cowl like ours. Yours seems a hybrid of sorts, but bloody hell, it obviously works!!!! If you ever happen to be walking past yours with the tape measure.....I am still debating whether to open the top or open the bottom more, although I am very much thinking I need to change my lower cowl to this 'overlap' style I spied on a J120 at the factory.

Yep, saw that section, but missed anything about the attachment. Not to worry, back the site I go...