Thruster87

Pitot Static Heated probe for sale on eBay Pitot Static Sensor Tube Heated Aircraft Aviation - eBay, Parts, Accessories, Aircraft, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 28-Nov-09 19:41:03 AEDST)

If you are building an aircraft use aviation methods which are proven.1 .Alumiprep wash,Alodine coating and then two part expoy primer [NOT etch primer with alodine coating] or nitrocellulose lacquer aircraft paint or Zinc chromate or Zinc chromate free primer.2. Prekote then epoxy primer.3 Alumiprep then an etch primer. 4.Top coat if required Cheers [ there are a few other products instead of Prekote]

Put one in my 601xl which was an easy install and I flew in a Sportstar which had one.Personally I think they are a must on bubble canopies, but don't expect the temps to drop dramatically. Cheers

Refer Q&A http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/xl/data/qa-chris-heintz-1a.pdf Cheers

The difference is that the USA 601xl flys at 600kg MTOW and here 544kg MTOW. At the lower weight the manufacture has said the alrcraft is fine but still recommends the mod/upgrade be done. The upgrade is the stregthening of the wing spars and carry thru structure to give a greater margin for any overload situations that may arise.This aircraft is now the most tested LSA in the world.The reason for the wait was they were doing all the testing etc. Cheers T87

As I understand the RAAF spent around $250,00.00 to make the one destined for the Canberra War Museum airworthy but the museum can't house it due to its size so would need to chop the Wings, Tail and make it into a static display only.Hope they come up with a better solution.Hars is not getting its own but may get to loan one of the others and keep it airworthy. Cheers T87

RIP Tony for your legacy will live on T87

Anyone know if there is a Storm 500 agent in OZ or NZ ??? Cheers T87

Have sent a copy to Steve Bell [RAAUS Tech Officer]for a opinion on the torque values considering Jabiru recommends 24 ft lbs /32.50 nm as per SERVICE BULLETIN: JSB 012-1.:confused:

There are still engines out their like mine that were made years ago but were stored for future use as kits were completed years later.Any builder/maintainer worth his salt should do his own research on his particular engine to make sure all mods/updates have been done.This article was meant to enlighten those who may not have been aware of these earlier problems.Old news can be of use to new builders/maintainers and remind others to check their engines are OK. Misleading !!! I don't think so, Educating yes Cheers T87

Anyone know a place to buy Loctite 620? Blackwoods lists it as a 50ml x 10 pack or 250ml bottle.Maybe Ian could buy the 10 pack and sell them one at a time and make a little profit CheersT87

Came across this Jabiru Flywheel Bolts Important Notice Contributed by Anton Lawrence Over the last couple of years there has been an increasing awareness of a problem with the flywheel retaining bolts in the Jabiru 2200 and 3300 engine. The problem is simple enough to identify, the bolts are breaking and have caused in-flight engine failure. The cause has been much harder to identify and has been blamed on loose prop and prop extension bolts. There can be no question that loose bolts in this area will transfer harmonic vibrations down the crank and precipitate movement of the flywheel parts. Examination of the timing gear on engines with broken bolts has identified severe fretting of the gear against the end of the crank, this cyclic movement is the reason the bolts are breaking. The retaining bolts are 5/16th socket cap screws property class 12.9, although some of these are threaded full length, which wouldn’t normally be considered best practice, all the bolts are fracturing on the shear line. 12.9 bolts have an ultimate tensile strength of 1220 MPa and yield strength of 1100 MPa, it is normal to tighten these to within 90% of yield; this is to ensure proper clamp pressure of the parts. This would cause the Jabiru bolts to elongate by about 5 thou and is the mechanism by which clamp pressure is maintained. A company in Hamilton, Asseco has analysed this joint and come up with a torque figure of 41 Nm for these bolts with lubricated threads and washer face. I have used the formula from MIL-HDBK-60 and come up with a figure of 43 Nm using the same lubrication and 56 Nm with no lubrication. The Jabiru manual states a figure of 24 Nm for these bolts with out lubrication, it is my belief that this where the problem partly lies. (Jabiru apparently now recommend 32 Nm but this is still almost ½ the maximum preload the bolts can take.) Contributed by Anton Lawrence The CAA is working on an AD for these engines which will most likely require the bolts to be replaced every 100hrs. It is very important that as part of the replacement procedure the timing gear is removed and inspected, if there is any sign of fretting the part should be replaced and equally important is that the bolts are replaced irrespective of their appearance. Jabiru are now fitting three 1/4 inch dowels into the end of the crank in an attempt to prevent this fretting, any new gear will have holes for these dowels pre drilled. The fitting of the dowels into the crank is a very precise job and should not be attempted by anyone other than a qualified fitter, engineer or toolmaker. Asseco is one company which has already completed ten of these dowel fitting operations, I don’t want this article to appear to be advert for one company or an other, so if you want their contact details you can contact me directly and I will pass them on to you. © Jabiru In conclusion, if you have an unmodified Jabiru engine of either type in any aircraft type you should immediately have the flywheel bolts and timing gear inspected, if all looks OK you should replace the bolts (reminder, 12.9 bolts should never be reused) and tighten them to between 41Nm to 43Nm using molybdenum grease as a lubricant in the threads and under the head, don’t get any grease on the bearing surfaces. If you use Loctite 620 in the threads and grease under the head you should tighten to 46Nm, Loctite 620 and no grease tighten to 53Nm. If you are going to tighten these bolts to the above figures it is vital the bolt has a ½”diameter minimum hardened washer under the head, if not the bolt will embed into the alloy parts and preload will be lost. Check the prop bolts and prop extension bolts for correct tightening and also check to ensure the extension is running true and the tracking is within 3mm, on some aircraft these have been found to be well off centre. If you have 10mm prop flange extension cap screws installed with Loctite 620, you can take them to 89Nm to reach 90% of yield. I have also checked the torque for the Crankshaft Prop Flange Cap Screws as these have also been found slightly loose, Jabiru recommends 40Nm but these bolts are capable of taking 83Nm. If all these bolts are tightened correctly and all the parts are running true it should be possible to eliminate the problem of broken bolts. When tightening bolts you should tighten to halve the required amount following the tightening sequence, leave for an hour (no longer if using Loctite 620) to allow for local relaxation and then complete the tightening in one movement so as not to get stuck with static friction at a lower level, I have calculated the turn of the nut (5/16 cap screw) from snug tight to 43Nm be only 48deg so take care. © Loctite Some notes on Loctite : Jabiru has apparently changed their recommendation of Loctite 262 to 620 for the above parts. 620 is not specified as a thread lock product but Loctite assure me it is good for the job as it has a longer time before cure and higher temperature capabilities, you can download all the data sheets from http://www.loctite.co.nz. Unfortunately you won’t find the friction coefficients or nut factors on these sheets, I have had to dig deeper to get these directly from Loctite. Anton Lawrence, RAANZ Tech Officer

In all my dealing with the sheila [Liezel] she couldn't have been more helpfull and reliable during the past two years. Jabiru USA on the other hand takes a week at least to respond to emails and will have to wait and see how good their warranty is on the FWD kits. Cheers T87:typing:

There is an AD out where you have to have a secondary method of holding the canopy from opening fully.This may consist of a tie rope/strap/etc or slid bolts or anything else you can thick off to stop the canopy flying open if the main catch lets loose.The way the main latch engages is by pulling the canopy down and it then has to click 2 X to be secure.The first click only engages it partially and may have contributed to the mistaken thought that the canopy was closed properly.The method to fly if the canopy does open and maintain control is to apply full power and land ASAP Cheers T87:typing:

Or any old serviceable wooden prop suitable for a 3300 Jabiru engine would be fine.Cheers T87

Wanted a wooden prop for a Jab 3300a 64" by 49 or 51 pitch. Cheers:help:

I bent two rims and bashing the dents by a rim repairer using round steel plates about 1/2" thick which were the correct diameter for the rim and also putting a bit of heat while bashing out, one ended with a crack about 20mm at the bead.Which he wouldn't/couldn't weld so I got an aviation welder to do it.I ground and polished the weld and you can't tell where it was repaired, looks good as new and is on it's second lot of rubber Cheers

It really does depends on the alloy used,but aviation welders are the experts when it comes to welding Al alloys.Even they may not give you warranty on the job but it may stay together like mine.Just keep the speed below 120klm's.There is always a concern the repairs won't match the strength of the original.Cheers T87

You could call an aviation welder to see if it repairable [did the same thing a couple of years ago on tha BMW and the alloy mag is still going strong after 40,000 k's Cheers T87

Taxi runs started Did a few high speed taxi runs [up to 60knots] and it was less twitchy then the Sportstar I have been flying so more then happy:clap: [ATTACH]8950.vB[/ATTACH] will get it of the ground once the Level 4 inspection is carried out later this week I hope. Cheers T87

Any updates on the fuel cards??? will need one soon CheersT87

Moisture:crying: my lad is the killer and lap joints are a vunerable area.Static build up can be minimized by static discharge wicks and the electrical parth via the rivets is sufficient for conductivity.Saying that, you should run all ground lines to a earth bus which is connected to the battery to avoid radio interference CheersT87

The 5606 Mil spec I use on the Zenith 601xl with Matco Brakes is Aeroshell Fluid 41 and I bled mine using the syringe method [you can control the flow rate better] rather then the oil can from the bottom up as well. Cheers

On the Zenith we use a special nose [concave ground] bit on the riveter which domes the CSK head to a lower profile shape and is supposed to work harden it as well [not totally convinced about that] Cheers

On another subject, how close to flight testing are you Ian?????? I'm hoping to take my machine to the airport and do the final assembly/inspections next week Cheers T87