dan tonner

Hello Bill; I saw your post and thought you might want to have a look at a modification (or two) I made on the flap lever and spring following an incident where the original flap lever released during a final approach. I have also added a "Mark Kyle" flap lever bracket as well. The two springs slide over one another and increase the force on the mechanism that locks the lever in position. Did someone unscrew the knob from the lever resulting in the loss of the original spring? (Happened to me a couple of times before I made this modification.) Fly safely; CanadaDan A second spring was added internally to the flap lever push button to help prevent unintentional flap lever release from the locking grooves in the floor-mounted bracket. Additionally, the threaded knob and actuating rod inside the flap lever were through-drilled at the groove of the knob. A pin is kept in place by a suitable O-ring and prevents the knob from being unscrewed unless the pin is removed.

Sounds just like the discussion regarding renewals here in Canada. One has to appreciate the scope of duties in government offices: nails to be filed, coffee to be drunk, holidays to be planned, and so on....... CanadaDan

This is what I have been using - along with 10 liter plastic fuel cans and a Mr. Funnel. I have a sheet of bubble wrap that I set on the wing longeron next to the filler, set the plastic jug on it, slip in the pump and operate the switch with one hand and steady the funnel with the other. I changed the two "D" cell batteries after three years. The hose from the pump appears flimsy but has proven itself over the six years I have used it. The cost: $15.00 plus tax. I purchased two in 2016 because they looked a little cheaply made. The second one is still in the box and has never been used. Canadian Tire store as well as at other outlets -(Princess Auto and Home Hardware) NOTE: not all versions of this type of pumpare approved for gasoline. CanadaDan fuel pump.docx

Thanks for the followup reminder, Farmpilot. The repair was a complete success. The main issue was getting enough of the crimp relaxed around the plastic case to free the faceplate. Patience and proceeding in very small steps was a key. The Hobbs/Tach is reinstalled (the Hobbs remembered the last reading) and I had a few flights since where all worked well. Thanks again so much for the advice and encouragement. CanadaDan

KGWilson and Farmpilot; Thanks for your replies. The replacement LCD screen is due to arrive today (along with Hurricane Fiona). Assuming my hangar and airplane withstand the meteorological assault, I'll let you know the results of the repair. I have already removed the tach, carefully prised open the case and removed the original screen. (Before ordering the replacement, I also snipped 1/8" off the end of the ribbon connector and reinstalled it - a trick I learned from repairing microwave oven keypads. However, this time it didn't fix the problem - the display was still as spotty and unreadable as before.) Farmpilot; I loved the video - that is one fellow I'd let work on my airplane anytime! I'll let you know how I make out with the fix. All the best; fly safely, CanadaDan

Thanks for the reply Farmpilot. The front bezel of my Tachometer is crimped over a lip on the front edge of the case; if this was the situation with your tach, how did you manage to un-bend (then re-bend) the bezel without seriously damaging it? (Photos attached) CanadaDan

The Hobbs readout window on my Tach/Hoibbs gauge began flickering and became unreadale (partial numbers) during a flight yesterday. Because the Hobbs gives a readout as soon as my battery master is "on" and the key is in the "run" position, it appears to be simply a real-time clock using active 12v power. The pink wire that comes from the Voltage regulator's "L" position provides the signal to both the Hobbs and the red "charge" lamp on the panel. The Tach, of course gets its signal from the RPM pick-up coil on the flywheel. There are no issues with the Tachometer or any of the other gauges or electrics. The red ":charge" lamp works as it should and shuts off as soon as the engine is running.The Tachometer ground wire and the signal wire (pink) from the regulator each show continuity from end to end. Is there a way to reset the readout on the Hobbs window? The gauge itself cannoity be opened - it has a crimped bezel holding the glass front to the plastic body. Could this be an issue with the voltage regilator? Anyting else? Rather than replacing the gauge, I would probably just be more vigilant with my watch and start-up and shut-down times. Or install a simple 12v digital clock that resets to zero on shutdown. Suggestions welcomed, CanadaDan

Hi Jim; I have a 2010 VG XL tricycle and I see 85 MPH on the airspeed indicator at 5000 RPM. Dan

Bob: my trim indicator is a single lighted bar that moves up and down a 10-step “ladder”. I set it so that in cruise, the middle “rung” (sometimes both segments 4 and 5 ) are lit up. I had already changed the offset servo connections to “straight-on“ clevis connections to the push/pull trim control rods on both sides of the horizontal elevator. It required a small repositioning of the servo – see picture (full nose down position shown in attachment). Keeping in mind the indicator displays the servo ram position and not the actual trim tab position, here’s how I set the indicator: · I adjusted for cruise trim in flight then landed without making any more trim changes; · I secured the stick in a centered position and measured the trim tab deflection; · I pressed the trim rocker switch to move the indicator to the center position, then adjusted the push/pull rod lengths on both sides to achieve the previously measured trim deflection. Having shared all this, I believe this procedure would actually worsen your situation. Currently, in cruise configuration, you still have 7 “segments” of nose-up trim available. Were you to “center” the indicator to your cruise configuration you would reduce the “available” nose up trim segments to 5 and consequently require even more backpressure with flaperons engaged. I think Mark has it nailed; you may be a little nose heavy. When I press my tail down, I pass the “balance point” when the skid is about 6” above the level surface; when the skid is on the ground, it carries only an ounce or two of weight. I have the battery (and and about 25’ of gauge 4 wire leading to and from it) mounted in the tail; My tires are still the stock Carlisle “yard machine” tires…do you have a Condor on the front as well as the mains? I’ll be watching to see how you make out…. ANDY: Like Bob, I have Mark Kyle’s flap lever bracket installed. The original required the lever to be awkwardly pulled into the pilot’s crotch for full flaperons. During a test flight just after completion, my plane suffered a hard landing when the lever “released” during the landing flare (according to the pilot.) I suspect the awkwardness of the original lever contributed to a failure to fully lock in place. Broke my heart and cost lots in terms of time and money for repairs. I try not to look at those photos. I found with full flaperons (even with Mark’s 4-position bracket) I was uncomfortable with reduced rudder / elevator authority. Perhaps with experience and practice I will grow into that configuration, but for the time being, I’m happy with longer strips and 45 – 50 mph touchdowns. All the best, Fly safely. CanadaDan (Dan)

Hi Bob; You seem more concerned with the nose-down attitude at full flaps than with the extra force required to keep the nose where you are comfortable at full flaps. Is it possible that because you need to “pull” harder on the stick you end up thinking you are flying at a nose-down attitude? You mentioned that in cruise, your trim is at “3 bars”; but you didn’t say whether this was nose up or nose down. Since the RayAllen electric trim works opposite to the Anti-balance mechanical trim, depending upon whether you have a nose-up or a nose-down “3 bars” trim at cruise, this will affect control “feel” at full flaps – especially if you are three bars from full nose-down trim in cruise. The anti-balance function would have the trim tabs way up (trying to push the nose down) when you are using flaps and trying to hold the nose up with the stick. Rather than over thinking it (I probably already did); consider adjusting the trim so that the bar is centered when you are in cruise (with your “usual” weight-and-balance configuration). This works for me, along with NEVER using full flaps – but that’s another story. As for the “factory” settings, something as simple as where you mount the battery (mine is in the tail) will determine the “right” trim settings for your particular build. All the best, vfly safely, Dan

or "XLVG" :-)

Hi eightyknots; I've attached a link to Transport Canada's "Listing of models eligible to be registered as AULAs" Listing of Models Eligible to be Registered as Advanced Ultra-Light Aeroplanes (AULA) (canada.ca) Under ICP, you'll notice there is the "Savannah" (with two listings reflecting different MTOWs), the "Savannah VG"; the "Savannah VGW" and the "Savannah S". There is no "XL" or "VGXL". But, that's Canada. CanadaDan

IBob and Onetrack: Thank you for the replies: Dianne McNamara at Punkinheadair sent me this photo of a cover (along with another fitted to the older model Savannah VG). She was very helpful and spoke of a newer type cover fabric called WeathyerMax Surface Guard which is touted to be lighter weight, has a knitted polyester liner and has superior waterproofing and breathability characteristics. All for $640.00 plus shipping. It gives me a good place to start. All the best, fly safely, CanadaDan

Greetings all; As summer approaches the Great White North, I am anticipating flights which will have my Sav XLVG tied down, overnight. I have the fabric to make a cabin / cowling cover but no pattern for my particular airplane. I started this topic hoping to find a Savannah owner who has already been down this road and would be willing to share such a pattern with me. Fly safely, Canada Dan