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skippydiesel

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Everything posted by skippydiesel

  1. skippydiesel
    I am intrigued - what empirical tests have you done, to back up what reads as human perception? Dont get me wrong - I love the idea , I just want proof it actually works. Without proof, it becomes faith, which I have little time for😈
  2. skippydiesel
    How will it "wear thin" if no abrasives are used/contained within the polish. This is what I was getting at earlier - abrasives, either deliberatly applied or accidentally within the (renovating?) polish WILL steadily remove the paint/gel coat eventually requiring a respray/application at considerable expense, to replace what you did not need to remove - for what? A temporary ashetetic "buzz". If you must use an abrasive - do it to sell the aircraft - it will still have its gel/paint coating and will come up a treat. I use automotive detergent (in the hope it will do no harm to paint or airframe) rinse off with copious quantities of rain water, dry with synthetic chamois (better, cheaper than natural and kinder on the goats). When the mood takes me, about 2x/year, I polish with non abrasive polishes. After "buffing", I reapply the polish to leading edges - do not buff/remove. I hope this will form a sort of sacrificial coating for bugs ie non stick. Far from perfect, seems to work, particularly on prop leading edges and back (worst place for bug contamination). I do my prop more often, to get rid of any persistent bug splatter (comes off with a light spray of water & my chamois) fairly frequently - estimate once per month depending on season 😈
  3. skippydiesel
    I learnt the hard way, if you want to minimise/prevent cracking along seams, etc aircraft paint should have a degree of flex, either inherent or added. I did use flex additive on the glass cowling - all good😈
  4. skippydiesel
    Hmm! What equipment did they use to back up, what I assume is, their very flawed/limited, human perception? I stand to be corrected; Rotax 912ULS should not be idled for any length of time below 2000 rpm, except during shut down when, depending on technique, minimum idle is 1400 - 1700 rpm😈
  5. skippydiesel
    For what it's worth: I have always shied away from using any cutting compound on paint/gelcoat. Seems to me that the benefit (removing some esthetic blemish) is as short lived as the polish containing the abrasive or polishing applied after. I also feel that the damage to the paint or gelcoat, may eventually lead to other problems, "down the track". From my jaded perspective, this is a technique/system, much loved by second hand car dealers (& the like) to present their, suspect offering, in the best light. 😈
  6. skippydiesel
    A grader would be great but questionably cost/effect to purchase (contracter/friend in area?). Better a land plane (found in irrigation country) might get away with a grader blade fitted to rear of tractor (to some extent the longer the drawbar the better /consistent the result)😈
  7. skippydiesel
    Run - up - area/bay?? Up to you - I did all my initial training in the NSW far west - dirt, more dirt, some grass (with "catheads") . Most of the strips I flew into had a cement/bitumen or "clean" area/pad to do run ups specifically to reduce damage, to prop & airframe, from air blasted debris. For TO; - Many pilots are trained to hold the aircraft on its brakes and or go to full throttle, as they power up - contraindicated on dirt/gravel, unless a short field TO desirable. Better, to gently apply throttle, increasing as aircraft accelerates, minimising prop blast from lifting loose material. This will mean an extended ground role but will reduce "gravel rash"😈
  8. skippydiesel
    Has the "Balance Master" (BM), been empirically proven to be effective? I purchased & fitted one to my last aircraft -made no apparent difference, in vibration. NOTE: My prop had been carefully static & dynamically balanced. I rationalised the expense, as a just in case/safety feature. Just in case, I lost a chunk out of my prop, the BM might minimise the resultant vibration, to allow a safe landing. I have no idea if the BM would be effective in this scenario. 😈
  9. skippydiesel
    Hi Neil, I have wing tanks & like you mostly fly solo. For a "Nav" I fill my tanks to the brim, use some of my right tank first, followed by my left. I repeat this as often as fuel is required, aiming to use about 10-15L per change.😈
  10. skippydiesel
    Some thoughts on Cue International; A private airstrip strip only needs to be as wide & long, as you & your aircraft can safely operate from at Max TO weight. If possible, it should be aligned with the prevailing winds, however it may be that from time to time you will need to consider a TO/landing with a cross wind and if operating direction limited, a tailwind. Take into account; Runway surface - loose will affect braking distance. Dirt,will be impacted by rain. Grass will extend TO role. Etc Surrounding obstructions - from your photos my guess is that trees unlikly however significant natural terrain(rises/gullys) and man made creations (heaps/structures) should be considered. Where you will put-down should you have an engine failure It may pay you to have a run-up area/pad that can be kept free of loose dirt/gravel/etc to reduce the chance of damage to prop & airframe. Operational safety. not only depends on the length/width, aircraft capabilities but also on your preflight decision making (risk analysis). Should you allow aviation "friends" to fly in be sure that they have a complete understanding of the strip, its limitations & hazards. 😈
  11. skippydiesel
    One of my local flight schools uses exclusively Jabiru aircraft - all parked outside, most for very many years now. Only one or two with some very basic shade. The external surfaces are no longer shiny but appear to be in good order. I am impressed by their weather resistance. What sort of composite are Jabs made of ??😈
  12. skippydiesel
    OzRunways has a very handy W&B calculator, that can be customised for your particular aircraft. Very easy to use, instant report on in/out of balance. Word of warning; Computer W&B calculation aids, are only as good as the information put in 😈
  13. skippydiesel
    Saved by another pilot. Called in to the Sydney Recreational Flying Club, on the way to my Sonex - mentioned the need for small amount of 2" (51mm) ID SCAT. A member & gentleman, said he had he had some unused pieces I could have, he drove drove off, returning an hour later with the stuff. How good is that??? I used the donated SCAT, minus wire, to make two short (35mm) cuffs. Fitted perfectly to airbox/carbs, with a small amount of slack in middle for movement & secured with nice thin hose clamps - job almost done. Looking good. Will finish off during the week & go fly. My thanks, to all those who made suggestions/gave advice😈
  14. skippydiesel
    Aspirational my friend - when you find it flies with a bit of yaw, or there will be less vibration if you do a dynamic prop balance, there is an annoying noise/draft, etc etc, I guarantee you will scratch that itch😈
  15. skippydiesel
    Most of the silicon hose/ducting, I have found on the net, is quite heavy & thick - aimed at intercooling & the like. I specifically need, lightweight, good hear/fuel resistance & as flexible as possible so as not to impact on the carburettor being able to move/absorb vibration. I may have to use SCAT with the coil removed. I have written to a lay flat fuel hose supplier that has the necessary 51 mm(2") ID hose which may be suitable. In the meantime I have some Gates, automotive, aluminium, concertina ducting that will do the job for a while (longer?)😈
  16. skippydiesel
    It's a long time since my PPL & RAA conversion when no electronic navigation devices (ED)were permitted (weren't available for small aircraft). I hear (on this Forum) that all sorts of electronic devices are permitted by SOME training establishments. I think the question is , does RAA permit ED's during exams/flight tests???😈
  17. skippydiesel
    I only need about 30-40 mm flexible (must not transmit any load/restricton on the carb) straight (no bends) ducts between my air box & carburettor flange. Despite my hope, the SCEET does not seem to be the right choice for the job. Suggestions welcome.😈
  18. skippydiesel
    Yeah! Great job. If anything like my Sonex, you will now spend the next (?) months optimising many of the systems😈
  19. skippydiesel
    Gave it go yesterday - SCEET does no behave the way SCAT does (in the videos) - the wire does not come away without causing damage to the inner membrane/lining
  20. skippydiesel
    HELP NEEDED I have my SCEET, Dash 8, 2' ducting. I would now like to cut it to length, prepare & install it. Naturally I have Googled how to do this. So far have only found SCAT video/information on how to. SCEET has an inner membrane/lining (SCAT does not) making the SCAT videos of academic interest only. Anyone able to help????😈
  21. skippydiesel
    That's interesting - I was advised to make my cowling out of polyester, it's supposed to have greater heat tolerance than epoxy. I know very little about composites, so I just followed the advice of my local composite materials supplier.😈
  22. skippydiesel
    Remarkably similar to RAA😈
  23. skippydiesel
    Seems to me the moral of this story (fictional or true) is don't use materials equipment on/in your aircraft that you don't know meet/exceed the manufactures standards. If in doubt purchase OM products😈
  24. skippydiesel
    I used to do the hose clamp/safety wire thing on my oil filters (piece of mind) however now on my fourth filter without and so far none of them have moved😈
  25. skippydiesel
    I have used the same size copper crush washer, as used on the oil tank drain, perfect fit, on my last & this new 912ULS. May not be required but satisfies my mechanical urges and will do no harm. I agree that the washer is not required to make a oil tight seal, however having the crush washer means you don't have to tighten the magnetic plug to the recommended torque - makes it nice & easy to remove/inspect, at your 100 hr service or earlier if you wish. On removing the old hex socket style magnet plug - I did this on my last engine. Be sure to have the new style ready to put in, as you will likly trash the old one. From imperfect memory, I employed all the "tricks' mentioned above, to get the darn thing out - in the end it was careful use of a cold chisel that cracked the seal (if it had had a copper crush washer it would not have been a problem).
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