skippydiesel

So you agree, the entry criteria is likely to focus on equipment carried ( ie com, transponder, etc) rather than build type.

Mackay are astonishing in their range of products. This will get you their universal products range (25 mm ID radiator hose being of most interest to Rotax drivers) https://www.mackayrubber.com.au/hoseproducts https://www.mackayrubber.com.au/_files/ugd/478d7d_f2637e84ee494d8ca160b52dd68de25c.pdf https://www.mackayrubber.com.au/_files/ugd/17eaaa_9774ebec8334488e94706a9951ddfacd.pdf

Update: It seems that Mackay (Australian manufacturer of automotive hoses, amongst other things) make a wide range of 17 mm ID molded hoses - the above question is now moot but I would would still be intersted in the experience of anyone fitting silicone hose to a larger OD spigot.

I stand to be corrected - Dont see the logic in that - GA experimental (home built/modified) are not so restricted.

Back to 17mm ID Coolant Hose: Mackay PN CH4195 17mm ID x 430mm Long. $11-$27 various vendors in Au While you are checking this out - have a look at Mackay Catalogue, you may never have to purchase from RoTAX again. Heater hose 17mm ID, pages 44-45. Radiator Hose 24-25mm ID, Page 53-55 https://mackayrubber.com/pdf/hose_ID_listing.pdf For list of Australian sellers see bottom of page https://www.mackayrubber.com.au/automotive

https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/ngk-vd05fmh

Rotax Spark Plug Caps - NGK VD05FMH 8425 https://www.ebay.com/itm/283890969752?epid=14059118977&itmmeta=01HV56GBJRFTKZ5ZPRG8A0DC4H&hash=item4219386c98 https://www.ebay.com/itm/166686792115?itmmeta=01HV56GBJRN5ANQ10Y8GFFMK5T&hash=item26cf4e99b3 https://www.amazon.ca/NGK-VD05FMH-Resistor-Cap/dp/B0068O7NSE

Should have done this before posting - K&S Technologies part number is 10-4222MH K&S caps, they are an exact duplicate of the NGK ones, except the rubber is silicone." Seem to be only available from the USA - sorry!

While I am fanatical about using the correct size (ID) of hose relative to its spigot (OD) I recognise that sometimes a smaller ID hose may do the job just as well. (NOTE: I said smaller ID - never use a larger ID hose, it is almost guaranteed to leak and be insecure on the spigot/barb) EG Rotax specify that 17mm ID coolant hose. A little over 2m in length is required for most 912 engines. 17mm ID is awfully hard to come by, unless you purchase from Rotax, at an exorbitant cost. The well known/respected brand Gates, only do 17 mm in some preformed/shaped hoses - you would have to purchase several to achieve the 2m + required a potentially a costly exercise. Gates do supply silicone coolant hose in ID 5/8" (15.875mm). I am under the impression that silicon hose is considerably more flexible (stretchy) than the usual "rubber" hose. My questions are; Will the Gates silicon 5/8" hose fit, without damage, on to a 17mm OD spigot/barb? Are there other factors that I should consider?

Rotax (& others?) spark plug caps. Just found, on Rotax Owners Forum, this alternative to OM: "K&S Technologies part number is 10-4222MH K&S caps, they are an exact duplicate of the NGK ones, except the rubber is silicone."

Area 51 Wow! the Pipistrel way of addressing, the fuel return system, what I see as relatively simple concept, is very (unnecessarily?) complex. Perhaps there is just no space, closer to the engine, for a header tank.

I passed on my comments to Pipistrel - will be interesting to see of they reply/have anything to say. I think RAA should be a tad more discriminating in the "stuff" they reprint & circulate to the membership.

Currently trying to get a straight, low km, 1999, Suzuki SV 650 S back in to good working order. Pig of thing to work on, compared with the bikes of the pre 1980. It's just a fun project/ challenge to do, no intention of riding it (other than a test ride on our very quiet semi rural dead end street). Will offer it to you guys once, all the nigeling little problems of years of neglect have all been sorted and its registered again.

So far this filter remover has not failed me - mowers, cars, generators, tractors - all done! The beauty of it is the "strap" is some sort of spring steel, with raised dimples for added grip. The strap is very thin, so access has never been an issue and the tightening mechanism easy to manipulate, even in difficult access situations, to get a good grip. I even managed to do a filter on a Suzuki Vitara - the worst access I have ever come across. Anyhow access to aircraft filters is easy, due to being able to remove the body (cowling) so I am not sure what you are referring to.

This is what I have used for the last 15 years. Has never failed me. Good in a tight spot. Will accommodate a wide variation in spin on filter sizes. About $12 on EBay.

PS Gates Silicone Hose in 5/8" (16mm) x 3ft, ON 2481 can be purchased from: SCA Item No. SPO3377117 $97.00/3ft Maxi Parts Product Code GAT 26241 $50.00/M It may also be available from Repco but I don't have a price at this time.

In hoses my focus has been finding suitable substitutes for oil & radiator - I have forgotten about the 17mm ID coolant hoses. Seems that there is nothing available (except from Rotax) in straight hose BUT you can purchase the following molded/shaped hose in 16.5 & 17 mm ID which can then be cut to the required lengths. Note: Most installations will require a little over 2m in total, you will have to purchase more than one of the preformed hoses, so be sure to compare the total price with Rotax supply. 02-1579 16.5mm 02- 1249 16.5mm 02-0912 16.5mm x 755 mm long 02-1415 17.00mm x 280mm long (see below) Gates Silicone comes in ID 16mm (5/8) straight & formed. Silicone hose is usually super stretchy, so I assume 16mm will push on to a 17mm spigot/barb. https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/-/media/files/gates-au/heavy-duty/application-data-sheets/heavyduty-product-range--silicone-coolant-hose.pdf

Below is an excerpt from a letter circulated by Pipistrel & published by RAA in its recent news letter (see full letter) PVS-2304_2024-Circular_letter.pdf (raaus.com.au) "Date: 23th April 2024 Subject: Vapor lock preventive actions, applicable to all Pipistrel aircraft equipped with Rotax 912, 912 iS and 914 engine types NOTE: Steps specified below act as additional content to the existing procedures outlined in the applicable aircraft flight manual. BEFORE FLIGHT: • If temperatures rise in the area of run-up, it is advised to increase RPM above idle in order to force more air through the engine compartment, which will maximize the cooling. • If aircraft is equipped with auxiliary/booster fuel pump, pay attention to its sound – any significant “non-standard” deviation in pitch of the sound could indicate presence of the trapped vapor. • After takeoff, reduce climb angle to increase airflow through the engine compartment, which will maximize the cooling. AFTER FLIGHT: • If situation permits, park the aircraft with nose pointing into the wind. • Before shutdown, let the engine cool down at idling. • Keep the doors opened – this will allow heat to escape from the cabin, which is especially beneficial at configurations with fuselage tank installed." Not having access to the Pipistrel "flight manual" I don't know what additional information it may containe on the subject/management of fuel vaporisation - I am concerned that the above letter does not go nearly far enough in that it has failed to refer to: the main/most likely time for this phenomena to occur, is on the ground, after flight, on a hot day opening any inspection doors/hatches to allow the hot air from heat soaked engine to escape more readily. fuel pressure indicators (other than a vague reference to boost pump, if fitted, sound) hot starting problems the assistance a correctly fitted return fuel line will give in helping to minimise/alleviate this problem. the safety implications in not having a boost pump. the need to run the boost pump until posative/acceptable fuel pressure is achieved - this may include during attempted start. extended run up time, to not only assess the engines condition but to further aid in clearing fuel vapour from the system. having a "plan" should the engine not deliver full power/die on take-off/climb out. The advice to : "..........let the engine cool down at idling." may not be good , in that most aircraft will taxi, inducing a flow of air through the cowling/cooling systems befor shut down. Further engine running while aircraft is stationary may only exacerbate the heating of fuel lines, leading to a greater chance of vaporisation. I would recomend stopping the engine as soon as aircraft has parked. Keep the doors opened – this will allow heat to escape from the cabin, which is especially beneficial at configurations with fuselage tank installed." will do no harm , it sounds like BS to me. While it is desirable to keep all onboard fuel cool, the fuel stored in the tank(s)will not be influenced by the heat from the engine, which is the main generator of the problem, often referred to as "vapour lock"

Looks hopeful. I realise that only a small percentage of RAA pilots will want to take advantage of entry to controlled air space (CTA) BUT for this few it's not just a convenience, it's also a safety matter. Large sections of the Australian eastern seabird has become CTA, forcing transitioning RAA pilots in to sometimes scarry low level transit lanes or flying around CTA over large areas of "Tiger Country". This has always been a far more important privilege to try for than the doubtful benefits of the empire building Group G achievement.

After about 10 years of accident free motorcycling, I gave up road bikes, in the late 1970's. I spent a couple of months commuting in/out of the Sydney CBD - I had at least one close shave /day. The chicken entrails don't lie - it was time to sell the Honda 750/4. - just like this one except I had "Walker 2/1 pipes and dropped handlebars. Good open road bike, bit of a pig on sweeping bends.

"well my wife is hoping i will have a plane crash," 😈

If you are referring to the ring mount advertised in the Rotax Owners Forum - it has just dropped from $1K to $950 US = $1456 AU + estimated delivery of somewhere between $2-500AU = a possible $1,956. I think I will hope for a deal like Marty_d's

Now thats what I am after - did you use it?

$1.5K US is going to work out to be around $3k AU - this is a speculative purchase ie the conversion from bed to ring mount may/may not happen - I can't justify $3k on a possibility.

WOW!!!! Not good at all.