Blueadventures

Best method is follow Marks recipe 100%.

Yep same thoughts here. It was corrected before its first flight after the repair was completed to the nose wheel leg etc. Just part of the condition report inspection I made.

Skippy this is image of lower port engine mount bolt; others same. Thread not protruding nylon nut.

Just the threads were below the nylon insert in the nylocs. The engine mount is not bolts so the welded thread was a set length. It had sort of cup washers under the nuts so they were changed to get the pitch showing when nuts tightened. Yes, the carb vent system is very interesting / non rotax spec. I even received a call from RAA Jarrod at Tech inquiring about the repair and over all condition; all good and he was happy at end of call conversation.

Its back in the air. The carb vent system is non Rotax spec (who did or advised that setup - recommended to correct to Rotax spec and the engine mount threads were very short so got him to fix that up)

Took the Nynja to the beach today and caught up with friends there. Nice hard flat sand runway. Two other Skyranger’s, a Sav XL, Zephur and a Trike. Very pleasant air.

Its black stuff; the posts about it said need twice the quantity the Sav build says so that would be best for you and the rollers are the way to go. Mark Kyle and others talk up the rollers as the way to apply. I have not built a Sav but their advice and other builders like IBob provide faultless advice.

All I'm alluding too is that there would be a need and exhausts for the Jab engine are straight forward just need a jig, the material and welding ability. Such would suit a retired part time person and they are around even if in short supply.

Its a gap in the maintenance parts supply that Jabiru should fix to support their engines. What does this say for the present model engine in a few years?

Voltage above 15 or 16 volts can damage / destroy internal components of 12 volt instruments, radios etc as a general rule. I've seen over voltage (16V DC as an example) destroy a boats depth sounder (screen went black across and voltage display showed 16.8 volts at the time) and took out the VHF marine GME radio.

Are you saying that for a standard Jab airframe with a Jab engine they do not have available a standard exhaust? Thats got to be crazy and sh_t. Have you tried Paul Cherna at Rotec, he may do them.

Master is single switch above the group of switches.

I see an engine start toggle switch on panel so expect has a starter.

Answer from Tristan at Foxbat Aust. Mike’s Question Nose wheel spat removal on a Vixxen A32. What is the procedure to remove the front wheel spat as we are checking how its done tomorrow as a trail for fixing a flat tyre during a trip. Thanks in advance for info. The maintenance manual does not explain this. Tristan Mol Rising contributor You will need to remove the nose fork and shock from the aircraft to remove the spat. of the fork. Wheel, fork, shock and spat should come away and can be serviced as required on a bench Mike Saunders Author Thanks Tristan, this is on Dave's Yellow Vixxen. Just prepping for a trip starting end of week. So that I have it right, if in the field do you hold the tail down to get nose wheel off the ground (the weight on tail plane spar as in manual) and remove the bolts mentioned above then the spat will come up? Then remove the nose wheel axle? Tristan Mol Rising contributor Mike Saunders yeah get the tail on the ground as described. Then by removing the upper bolt on the shock and strut pivot bolt, the whole wheel assembly will come away allowing for the spat to be slid up and over. That will give plenty of access to the axle nut to remove the wheel. There are 4 bolts holding the spat to the nose fork. By removing them, you may be to get the spat up far enough to remove the axle bolt enough to remove wheel. Mike Saunders Author Thankyou for info, Appreciated.

What is the procedure to remove the nose wheel spat on a Vixxen A32. Tomorrow I'm helping a mate practice removal to fix a nose wheel flat tyre. Tyre is not flat just checking how to gain access as he's doing a trip starting next weekend. Thanks in advance for any info.

I have used Wacker on all plugs; bought a tube of it in 2010 for $18. Plugs have been good ULS now and UL previously.

Similar for PIK20's

I get them for less than $8 each from flylight in UK and that includes paying the GST in Australia.

I hope so.

The loose tail plane needs more info as there is an AD on it from manufacturer. Keen to hear why / how it became loose. Great that it was not a structural failure of the fin base laminate in any way.

The P3 is a sort of foam not like goo therefore better for our application. Just for info.

For info; In addition to the cans of P3 above I carry the necessary tools to remove the wheel and spare tube (two tubes on distant trips) with a Peter Anson jack and a hand pump. I also replace tyres at 5 years. Have not had a flat to date; but ready. I have been able to assist other flyers with the pump and also one of my tubes. If I got a thorn puncture I would check type internal for the thorn etc and fit a new tube. Have some patches as well but new tube best. A good mate has used the P3 a number of times due to the three spike thorns and it works great. You need to be as self sufficient as possible; even having spares at your hangar so when needed they are available. When you need an item it can be out of stock at times.

I carry two of these, they are perfect for tubed tyres. The best in my opinion as does work; as I say on tyres with tubes inside. Cheers

Yep, just a mm or two a times. About 2:30 pm I’m doing first flight for an overnight so will post result. I recon Flylight will do something like this. I like the wheel as the movement is graduated being the pitch of thread. I drilled hole in wheel to lighten and if needed can insert a pin to hold wheel in its position. Should not need a pin though.

When flying the Nynja I find every now and then I need to adjust my rudder trim, about 2 to 3 mm at times to relieve any light rudder pedal pressure required in flight not uncomfortable but like to have it nice (Last flight to counter need for light right rudder moved bungee 2.5 mm to left and resulted in very slight foot on left rudder. Therefore; need to move it 0.5 mm to right to obtain sweet spot) I had thought of a couple of ways to fabricate an adjustment method from the cabin in flight. Today I finished my first version that consists of a morse type push pull control cable that attaches to the rudder bungee (so bungee anchor point can be pushed or pulled off its preferred setting). In the cabin I have made a small wheel that is threaded and mounted between two retainer brackets. By turning it pulls or pushes the bungee as it travels along the cabin side threaded end of the control cable. It provides the necessary movement and will try for first time on Saturday afternoon.