skootaroo
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Everything posted by skootaroo
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I found why my spar caps are so thick, I was only counting the horizontal portion of the angle as a tensile member. I have recalculated my spar now to count the three pieces individually and found I can use much smaller angle! Anyway, back to work.
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spars Here's what I've drawn for a sparcap to shearweb interface. I've tapered the angle as much as I can, but as you can see the rivet heads are the minimum distance to the fillet radius. This was one of the reasons I wanted to use a tighter row of pop's, as they have a smaller shop head they could be installed closer to the fillet so I could trim more off the angle. As you can see I would have been installing my rivets the wrong way round, I can turn them around and no pixles will be harmed in the process. Carl
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Thanks Arthur, I've got 4-6 solids now, I'll pick up some 4-7's when I need them. I've been looking for a spec on what shape the dome head really is. I need to make the "anvil" I'll be squeezing my rivets against, I guess I'll just make the dimple freehand. Alloy shank pops? Is that to elimenate the rusting of the shank remains? Carl
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It is on the main spar shear web! If I file the edge there will be a dip in my straight cut, but there's 12mm of material to the row of rivets, so blending it in won't go near them. Even in 0.016" there's only 5000psi @ 6g's when 6061 can go to 25000psi shear. I think I can place it under a doubler as well, or is it better to have it out in the open? Carl
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Not ribetting yet, still a tadpole. I was cutting a sheet of 0.016" last night and on the middle of a long run I closed the snips too far. I've got a 1mm nick in my job, it is well outside the row of rivets. It's a small nick do I ignore it? File it out and leave a bow in my job? Get a new sheet and start again? Carl
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They just seem to have multiple product lines, down to what looks no different to hardware store rivets. Maybe you really can't tell the diference until you pull a few, I don't know.
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So I've started spending money, I'll cut metal in a week or so. I'm still having trouble with an470ad 4-7 rivets (I think I need 100 ok x3 for practice and square the result to counter optimism =900) I haven't found rivetsrus in bankstown in the yellowpages and I'm finding it dificult to tell the difference between one type of aviation business and another. On to pop rivets, even among the good brands it seems dificult to tell the difference between their bunnings grade product and the good stuff, unless they have a fancy add on like a sealed base or a ring to capture the stem (as shown on auf.asn.au) is any advel or cherry product the real deal or do they try to compete with china too? I guess there's some product sensitive questions here phmmm. Carl
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The angle is 38.1x38.1 x 4.75 with a 5.33 fillet radius. On the (shear)web flange I can mill that down to 3/4" or even 5/8" if I can fit rivets in there. I have now read that I need to keep an 1/8" rivet 1/4" from the edge. This makes 5/8" interfere and 3/4" miss the radius by 1/16. If I could just thread the holes and put a row of capscrews in!!!!! "pop" rivets in the skin wont be a problem they have a smaller shop head and keeps away from the rad, it's just these solids! Where do I get them from anyway? An "AN470AD4-6" is a few thou short of the "material thickness+1.5D" is it still within range? (3/16" + 0.016") AN470AD4-7 doesn't seem to be common or am I just not looking in the right places?
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If there's a need for a control tower then do we really want to fly there under the RAA? There are places that have less than six flights a day and a control tower! I guess it takes a while to correct these things.
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It's not that bad, I don't think they allow 95-10 aircraft into avalon any other day of the year anyway!
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The most likley scenario is a worn bearing, especially if you can adjust the belt away from the motor at idle and it climbs toward the motor under load. I'm ignoring the idea that the pinion is worn concave as this would be obvious to the eye and hand.
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I'm looking at the idea of ripping my sparcaps from a larger section of aluminium angle. Can the bulge of a solid rivet expand over some of the filet radius in the angle?
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm looking at the cutouts from the point of doing the job right, as I understand it a rib with cutout and flange is stronger and stiffer than a straight panel. I'm not entirely convinced they're necesary in this application I still feel compelled to find a compatable way to do it. Ultralights, these one hit, cut and flange dies, are they rubber mounted, I can't really picture how they're doig both ops in one hit. I have a little fly press at home here, I can turn some dies up to press the flanges, I guess I really need to see what fits and see how close to the edge is still OK. Anyway still drawing. Carl
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The ribs are really under stressed, even at 0.016" but I don't have any info on making "D" cutouts in noseribs or circle cutouts, with or without flared edges. Are there standards for how close to the edge you take the cutouts and how much difference a flared edge makes. I'm not sure if I've got the right plane but I thought the vampire mk3 had an AL rib with a "D" cutout and a plain edge. Thanks for keeping me going. Carl
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Electronic Fuel Injection for recreational engines
skootaroo replied to River's topic in Engines and Props
Why do you see a difference between external and internal power? Doesn't that sugest your battery is necesary equipment? Does anyone make a dead loss system anymore as any other system does keep the engine running without the battery. -
Oh, yea of course it was sunday but who can tell on a long weekend. Thanks for the info, I've been beavering away with it. I'm having trouble with finding 2024 angle in Aus, I can see it on aircraftspruce for $3/ft, does anyone know if they post 14ft pieces? or an alternate supplier in Aus. The rear spar, is it a rear facing "c" section, with a verticle or sloping face? I was trying to get out of using solid rivets until I noticed a common theme of solids used on spars, pops everywhere else. Is it just a given that I need to use solids? Carl
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Thanks for the chat on saturday afternoon Arthur, I've got a few questions I guess only you can answer (relating to your aircraft) and a few that are more open to opinion and discussion. What size angle did you use for your spar caps? Which direction do they face? Did you use a single size rivet/ spacing combination(fantasy I'm sure)? We'll get to ribs and skins sometime, what thickness I guess is my most pressing question. Of a more general nature: I printed an appropriatly sized clark-y template and noticed that the original wing is +/-5mm at best! Do I copy the original profile or not? As I'm ditching the wood rag and tube method (in favor of all aluminium) it seems reasonable to build everything behind the rear spar a control surface. Am I adding loads of work to include flaps, is it a waste of time, will I get the benefit? I checked after I got home, the original main spar is timber with aluminium fittings which I think I'll reuse. The rear spar is a single tube glued, not glassed to the timber ribs. I'm sure I've shortcut these questions somewhat, but I'm trying to get a basic drawing done before I lose the work I've already done. Thanks Carl
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Your magneto should be 3 phase with the centre of three coils wired together. Giving a common plus three wires. You should be able to measure equal ohms from the common to all three outputs and double the ohms from output to output. Your carb heat elements should consume a lot of power, giving you a voltage drop, which would help with your tacho problem. Tacho's being a voltage comparator have problems when their supply voltages vary. One thing to try is supplying power (not signal) from a small battery and see if your problem still exists. If it does the tacho may be mechanicaly damaged like a bent needle or something but if it solves the problem then you "just" need to sort out your mag, rect, reg! I don't know where the water temp sensor is on a 462, I'd have assumed it would be on the head.
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Hi all, I've been meaning to sign up for a while now and join in on the fun. I'll write up some of the work I've been doing breaking fibreglass wing spars and will be looking to some members for their advice and experience. Carl
