rick morawski
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Everything posted by rick morawski
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It's manufactured by ICP, the same company that makes the Savannah. See this link Vimana® | ICP AVIAZIONE S.R.L. Skykits renamed it the Rampage for the US market. They don't sell ICP aircraft anymore. They've morphed into World Aircraft Corp now. I don't think there is any Vimana aircraft in Australia (could be wrong there). Reg Brost of Aerokits is the importer of ICP aircraft in Aust. You could enquire to him. Cheers Rick
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Put another aircraft build log on the fire
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I did it a few nights ago, had no problems getting into the site, but agree that navigation once inside is a bit troublesome. The thing I didn't like was communication once finished the exam, or should I say, lack of it. I got emails all the way through the preliminary study quizzes and exam results, but after that....nothing. Still don't know if I passed or failed or how long I should wait before trying to find out....frustrating!
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Yes, that's the area.
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Hi Francois, Assuming that your aircraft is a Savannah because you posted in the Savannah section. That stiffness problem with the controls sounds like the aileron control rod spherical bearings binding with the bell crank at full flap and full deflection. Check them or get someone familiar with the savannah to check them, access through the big hatch in the bottom of the rear fuselage. They should have a couple special spacers on one side and one on the other of the spherical bearing. If the original builder just used standard washers on the AN5 bolts, or the spacers in th wrong order, then it will bind. I think that's what it will be, hopefully. Cheers Rick
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Ask Dan, he reckons he can get anything. 1.6mm seems pretty thick, I don't think the original is more than .025 or .030".
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To upload pics, have them loaded on your device, hit reply button, type any reply you want, press upload file just next to post reply button and select pictures you want from the pop up window.
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Here's a wiring diagram that I had handy.
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Hi, The differences are- 1)Double plate front strut to wing attachment. (Easy to see if you are checking) 2)Thicker front wing attach plate. 3)extra doubler angles inside the Lower rear fuselage. 4) extra frames inside the rear fuselage, in between the original frames, so rear fuse frames are only about 300 mm apart. Hope that helps. Rick
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No problems at all. Usually 3 stops per day, one refuelling. Cruising with about 115 kts average groundspeed every day. Bit of shitty low cloud first day departing, but perfect after that. Glorious weather today here at Narromine.
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Pain for you maybe, godsend for me. Just flew a Savannah from WA to narromine in 18 hrs flight time with that westerly all the way, yeeha! Nobody there yet.
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Hi Trackley, The pedal position is locked by the length of the steering rods that attach to the nose gear leg. It is possible to move them forward if there is any thread showing on the spherical bearings, by screwing them into the rod and thereby shortening them a bit, or they could be cut an re-tapped but the amount would be limited by the adjustment left on the rudder cable adjusters. And yes, this job best left for some experienced L2, and would have to be second checked and signed off in logbook. Cheers Rick
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The sender is the later 0-20mA type and needs to be used with a compatible gauge(you need a plug and terminals). Your kit probably has the older gauge used with the VDO resistive type sender, but you haven't shown us what type you have. If there is an incompatibility issue you have to either change gauge or sender. Probably easiest to get a resistive sender because you don't need to muck around with the wiring. Downside is those resistive senders can break down often. Rick
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Ha ha. Seriously though, check that you have used the correct washers on the "Heim" joint. They are very small spacers really, usually a pack of them in the kit. Follow the instructions, two on one side, one on the other. Then the ball joint will not rub on the levers.
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Been a long time since I've seen one of those
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Pretty much good to go with nothing in there. You can put 6mm bolt in to limit aileron travel but I have never used it. Check aileron an other control travel at final assembly.
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Next time put it in before you put the seat back/luggage shelf in, much easier on the back.
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No I wouldn't bend the brackets to get the flaps unit in. Do it with the unit in place, not impossible but difficult.
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It's offset to counteract P factor of prop. Rotating prop wants to go a bit left so it is offset to the right.
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Yes, brass fittings in the fuel pump with suitable sealer. You need 3/8" hose from aluminium tube supply to inlet of elect fuel pump, 5/16" from outlet of elec fuel pump to inlet of of mech fuel pump, 1/4" from outlet of mech fuel pump to inlet of fuel spider and 1/4" out of all the fuel spider outlets. Note the fuel spider has two outlets with restrictors- they are for the fuel pressure gauge and fuel return line. Have a look, you should have the fittings in the kit. Cheers Rick
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I've always turfed them in the bin.
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Hi Dan I think just about every Sav has had a problem with cowling proximity to the exhaust. Most just cut the cowl to give enough clearance, some re-glass the clearance hole with a bulge. Cheers Rick
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I've had a couple engine mounts repaired and autopilot servo brackets welded onto the torque tube (by an aircraft welder) no problems.
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I have not seen an instruction on the carpet and i have built six of them. Just separate all the parts and dry fit them where you can. some of those bits I've never figured out.
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i told you what these were for yesterday, post #491
