I'm currently hiring a BRM Land Africa from my club and I pay 65 Euros per hour wet.
The annual membership fee is 80 Euros.
Annual public liability insurance is just over 300 euros.
Landing fees are almost non-existant here. You can fly to a licensed aerodrome with an air-ground comms agent, 1000m of tarmac and a restaurant and pay between 3 and 7 euros.
You're certainly right about the deregulation, which is probably why we have over 15,000 members in our microlight federation, and that's not obligatory, so there are certainly plenty of pilots who are not members of the federation.
Registration and licencing is done by the French CAA (DGAC).
We have 6 classes of microlight, including the recent addition of ultralight helicopters. (example http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Famà_Kiss_209)
Basic rule is 300kg MAUW for single seat, 450kg for dual seat, 100HP single engine, stall speed less than 65kmh.
Instructors, licenced by the DGAC, are wholly responsible for signing off a new pilot, no external testing, no minimum number of hours.
One theory paper to pass covering all subjects, 75% pass-mark.
One medical certificate required before you go solo, valid for life.
Initial licence is for solo only, after an additional 30-40 hours, you pass a check ride with an instructor for the right to carry passengers.
All maintenance is the responsibility of the owner, can be done by professionals, but the owner is ultimately responsible.
Interestingly, despite this total lack of control and regulation, we don't have machines regularly falling out of the sky.
Probably because the owner is the one at the controls and he knows it will hurt !
(Definition of a pilot: The first person to arrive at the scene of the accident)