Marty_d

Wow Mark, I'm exhausted just reading that!

Ah Grosvenor House - I've seen her in the flesh, Shuttleworth Old Warden 2014.

The percentage of the population who could read and write is vanishingly small (in England at least) as you go back through the centuries. So that lovely precision writing pre 1600 is probably because the only people who could write, and did regularly, were the priesthood (who were basically professional writers and copiers), some of the aristocracy and perhaps the occasional educated merchant. Plus, writing materials (paper and ink) were relatively expensive so you made damn sure you did a good job. No running to Big W for a ream of paper and a box of ball point pens.

Book III of Odes, Horace circa 20 BC So for over 2000 years people have been complaining about declining standards of youth...

To be fair, you ask any kid what they learned in school on any day and 90% of the time the answer is "Nuthin'". Doesn't mean they actually didn't learn anything, just means that they either don't want to talk to you or they don't realise they learned stuff.

As promised - some pics of the battery shelf. Total weight = 312g.

One of my favourite planes. Just looks "right" - especially in polished aluminium.

Thanks Mike! PM sent.

Ah - that must be it. I plugged the generator wires straight into the regulator. Is that perhaps for engines that are mounted further forward? Mine reached the regulator fine, so not sure that I need to use the extension. Less connections would be better I assume?

Yep - the braided line up from the generator with 2x yellow leads in it, plugged into the "G" ports in the regulator.

Hi all, I bought a set of Savannah instruments (brand new) as the builder had decided to go with a glass cockpit instead. He threw in the wiring harness with it, which, given my 701 is pretty much identical to a Sav VG / XL in any case, has been very handy. I've had a lot of help from @IBob and @Kyle Communications with the wiring, but there's a couple of oddities on my loom that theirs doesn't seem to have. 1. The 50A fuse that goes between Relay (solenoid) and Regulator - theirs has one terminal on each side, mine has a ring terminal on one side (Relay) and 3 spade connectors on the other side. What are the other 2 spade connectors for? 2. There's an additional double yellow cable in red insulation, with female spade connectors on one end and male connectors in a plastic junction on the other. Does this have anything to do with the extra connectors from the 50A fuse, and if so, where do they go? Thanks! Cheers, Marty

I don't know if it's CGI or not, but it has been sped up. Never seen a jellyfish go that quick.

An update on the build - as per the above couple of posts you can probably tell that I've started working on the electrical system. So far I've installed Relay, Regulator, and thanks to the vast patience and helpfulness of @IBob and others, have sorted out all the engine-side ends of the Savannah harness I have. I've also bought a battery (Full River HC-20), and discovered that you can get the metal case off, and in doing so you save 903g. Which I'm quite happy about. Tonight I've been working on building a mounting shelf for the battery, right behind the pilot's seat and on the side of the fuselage so it clears the port rudder cable. I'll post some pics later, but it involves a couple of 250mm lengths of 19x19 L shaped extrusion - one on the floor, one on the fuse side, then a 0.032" bent shelf between them. The shelf is level as the aircraft sits on the ground, and is bent up on 3 edges to keep the battery on (there'll be a strip riveted on the 4th edge too). I'll have to design some sort of retaining strap that goes over the battery to hold it down. I've also bought a 200A isolation switch and installed it on the seat front, between the flap lever and the stick. There'll be a positive cable from battery to switch, then on to the relay and the rest of the circuit. A check of the oil pressure sender has revealed it's the newer type (Honeywell), so have ordered the appropriate gauge from Skyshop today. Checked Aircraft Spruce but with exchange rate and freight, Skyshop were cheaper. Still need to get a capacitor, fuel pump and a few other bits and bobs, but the credit card has had a bit of a hammering this month already so may hold back on them for a bit. Cheers, Marty

So... takeoff and mowing are the same thing?

Thanks RFguy, I have the standard solenoid -came with the engine I bought. (This one is brand new, obviously when the flight school owner changed out the engine on his Foxbat he left all the old ancillary stuff in the engine bay - muffler, electrics etc). He gave me the brand new muffler and solenoid. Today I managed to get the steel case off the battery. They had used a weak glue-like substance - similar to what you get on jar labels. Haven't yet weighed the case.

All I'm seeing is stupidity. There had been previous "incidents". They hadn't figured out what caused this incident before trying to fly again and crashing. Maybe they should spend less time praying and more time thinking.

Bit concerned about the effect the name might have on the more religious friends of pilots. I can just see their faces when the pilot says "I'll be taken up in the Rapture tomorrow!"

Ok, so I decided to get the info from the horse's mouth and asked Bert Flood's what they recommend. The bloke there said Panasonic LC-XC1221P, which is a deep cycle battery (21AH). So I rang around trying to source one, the shop whose national internet page offered them for sale told me that no, they'd talked to the supplier, and these are no longer produced. In fact Panasonic only make 100AH and bigger now. This battery shop bloke was very helpful. Couldn't understand why Rotax would recommend a deep cycle battery for an engine starting application, said that a "cranking" battery would be better (talked about the different thicknesses of plates inside them - you guys would know a lot more about the differences than I do). He ended up recommending the Full River HC-20 which apparently is a clone of the Odyssey pc680, mentioned above, but substantially cheaper as it comes from China instead of the US. So I think I'll take the weight hit (7 - 7.5kg without the steel case) and get one of those, mount it behind my arse and there won't be any problems with overheating. Will just have to lose that 5kg myself. Thanks all!

What did you do under your switch nuts? They're a bit harder - can't rotate the switch and need to snug it in quite tightly. (That reminds me - 14mm spanner when I go to Bunnings.)

That works when they have a movable nut - (and is also a damn good idea) - but unfortunately leaves out anything with a nutplate.

That's a damn good idea.

That looks brilliant! I'm convinced.

If you wanted to get philosophical about it, you could argue that marriage itself is the pressure cooker...

That's beautiful Vladimir.