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Kenlsa

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Everything posted by Kenlsa

  1. Kenlsa
    Bruce, I got a set from Ian at Camit and they were to go under not over. Worked a treat helping to average out the cht’s Ken
  2. Kenlsa
    Glen, I wasn’t there for the weigh in, only spoke to our maintenance man who conducted it. I only work on our Jabs. I can’t remember if it was a request from RAoz or Casa. it wasn’t done from our end. Ken
  3. Kenlsa
    We were asked to weigh our ROKO ( earlier model before the name change) this week……turned out to be 31kg over certified weight. wow! ….CG near the back. More wow… No modifications done, standard aircraft. CASA is now going to attend and conduct an official w@b. The club as taken it off line pending this weigh in. murkier and murkier Ken
  4. Kenlsa
    Mogas at Gawler. Our fleet has been on it for many months now and our valve problems on our Gen 4s has been eliminated. 4 Jabs and a Roko Ken
  5. Kenlsa
    I replaced one coil with a Rotec unit. Better start (instant) and no drop in idle rpm during ‘mag’ check. So should be slightly better when opening the throttle and maybe fractionally more economical, not that I can tell. Of course no advantage for cruise speed as 2800 rpm means 100 kts no matter what power is produced. Ken
  6. Kenlsa
    I don’t need any parts at the moment Ken
  7. Kenlsa
    RF, our entire fleet has been on 98 for a while now and we are in the final stages of installing a bowser. Result, no loss of compression due to stuck rings or valve face deposits. The camera does not lie, you can eat your dinner off the piston crowns. I have been on 98 most of the time and saving $12 an hour, that will be $18-20 in your 230. Ken
  8. Kenlsa
    Same as the Skyraider. Read that an aborted approach to a carrier deck and if full go around power was applied without care, the resultant torque could get it inverted with zero space to correct. Ken
  9. Kenlsa
    Had a mate that used to restore vintage cars. First thing to do was remove the motor, empty any oil that may be in there, then place the whole thing into a drum with a mix of fresh water and molasses, generally 10/1 but can go up to 20/1. Leave for up to 6 months if very corroded. Remove —-and all the rust was gone. Nuts screw right off with no stripped parts. done it myself on any iron or steel, even complete exhaust systems that would normally be thrown away. Everything comes up looking new. Took about 2 weeks. trick then is to immediately spray with light oil coz you can see rust forming almost straight away, I kid you not. I even restored a cast iron frypan that was so bad you couldn’t tell the rust from the pan. it sure does smell but is very cheap Ken
  10. Kenlsa
    Spacesailor , it’s coz I have both types and only want to operate under one system. As my Jab is 19 reg it can only stay in RAoz, but my Colt can switch. spent quite some time on email and phone to Jared and Darren just before Christmas and 760 is the number one push for RAoz in the new year. I am working thru a rebuild of the Colt at the moment delaying the final weight I will pursue as late as I can (413kg if aiming for LSA). So will save about 15-18k if we have 760 by the time my final decision is made. Ken
  11. Kenlsa
    Running your hands thru the wheat field? All that was missing was some reference to “saving humanity “ and the like. Ken
  12. Kenlsa
    Tigershark, how is your covering going. Have you selected a system yet? Ken
  13. Kenlsa
    Further to the above, I did try increasing the length of the plenum at the rear.......VERY bad. It increased the rear head temps by 15deg, Spoke to Ian Bent about it and as it followed the 90degree bend at the rear it increased the drag slowing the air too much, making a stagnant air pocket. Ken
  14. Kenlsa
    Glen, this is what I did after a heap of testing. I ensured a gentle slope for the air transition instead of a “step” Not shown are the gull wings underneath on the cylinders. Note the rubber grommet— this was required to reduce the standard factory hole size (19mm-3/4in) to slightly increase the amount of air staying in the plenum Overall no lowering of the temps on the front heads but from memory a drop of 15 deg on the rear heads. better temps on climb as well, 85kts@3000rpm to 1500ft, then cruise climb at 250 to 300 fpm @ 2800
  15. Kenlsa
    The only time you have too much excess power is...er.....never
  16. Kenlsa
    2 or 4a if you hang onto it you have saved plenty of cash. 4b E24 results in an orphan that will be hard to sell. We are converting or club ROKO to E24 as it is close to 15yrs but only 900 hrs. As a club we can absorb the potential loss coz being made of tin we will crash it (again, first was a heavy landing, big bucks to repair!) but write it off next time.(?) As E24 we can not train in it, only make it available to club members with their full certificate. This seems to be the best way out for us. Ken
  17. Kenlsa
    RF, I was wondering about the far cooler temps with the G4 may have caused a problem but have not followed it up. With mogas, ensure that there aren’t any 90degree bends in any fuel line, or elbow, where you need a change of direction of the line. Under certain conditions (extreme heat) it MAY lead to a low pressure zone on the inside of the elbow causing a potential bubble at that point. The Jab has gentle bends so is not a problem. This advice is mentioned on STCs for certified planes converting to mogas, for example my Colt. Any 90 deg elbows have to be replace with gentler ones. Ken
  18. Kenlsa
    RF, latest leak down on the 100 hour engine is 78 and 79 /80 and these are cold readings! leak downs on the avgas went from 50 to 60 hot. So lap the valves and back to high 70’s. Hence our move to Mogas . Detonation......starting to be an urban myth. Maybe before modern fuels but never heard of it with 95/98. It’s a different world to 30 years ago. The factory says it’s good.......so it’s good. As with anything, ensure the fire/heat sleeves are good. I have never talked to anybody who had detonation. Starting to get tired of hearing it quite frankly. Ken
  19. Kenlsa
    Bruce, the Gen 4 that has been on 98 since new has now had its 100 service. Camera inspection shows no/zero/zilch residue on piston or chamber. L2 took a photo and the rest of the fleet is now on 98 by now afaik. Note——-the new fuel filter had plenty of muck inside and some was metal (magnetic test) we are loading from drums at the moment until a bowser goes in. Ken
  20. Kenlsa
    RF, Yellow/whiteis result of avgas residue. All our club Jabs are on 98 now due to avgas residue forcing us to lap valve every 150 to 300 hours Wire brush it all off with a brass rotary brush on a drill- piston tops (you may scrape them with a small steel ruler to reach inside if the cylinder is still attached to the case) and combustion chamber- and the lower stems of the valves.( This will be very hard and may need machining -see below) if you see small grey spots on the valve and/or face -that is lead. use a factory go/no go gauge on the valve stem guides. It may be too tight. If so BEFORE deciding on new guides, ream out the hardened carbon with the factory reamer (I forget the size), you will be surprised what come out! then recheck the go no go gauge again. You almost never need new guides. take the valves to get recut at an engineering shop.$10 per valve. Then lap in the valve to the seat (again, you probably don’t need to cut the seat as well, just a lap will be ok) Oil and reassemble , with same collets to valves DONOT mix them up. then torque to 24lbs. fly for 5 hours and then re torque.... ring me if you want Ken
  21. Kenlsa
    I’ve done a few......engine crane strap onto the prop flange the jack it up till the nose wheel just touches the ground. This will put a force onto the rubber mounts giving you plenty of room Ken
  22. Kenlsa
    Unless your 230 is 19 reg, you will have to get permission from Jabiru to alter anything from the LSA specification build Ken
  23. Kenlsa
    My Colt has a 6lt capacity but has a running minimum of 2lts. at a cruise rpm of 2300, mass of 110kg, sump of 6/2lts, compression in the 6’s, no cooler (or filter) Lycoming has got the parameters right for this aircraft, speed and longevity. But it takes many $ and time to get it right. Change just one thing, be that speed/cruise/ climb, weight, prop etc, it all starts again. I think Jab has it right for a 2200 @100kts in a slippery airframe and a 3300 @120kts. All this with only a relatively few engines built compared to others. Ken
  24. Kenlsa
    Annum, having flown most types of jabs I have a bit of a “rule of thumb “ UL. Not flown one SK -need more rudder and elevator SP - fast, sporty, land straight away, not bad in turbulence 160- good speed, land when you want them to even if you are a little fast, roomy, good in turbulence 170 -roomy, need to watch landing speed or you will float, getting tubbier every year 200 top plane though 85 kts best glide can be an issue if having to land in a small paddock 230 good a/c with good speed, though working on 6 pots can drive you crazy if you need to remove the centre heads and barrels and having to use a crane lift to get enough space to removed the carb fuel bowl hope this helps, others may have observations of their own Ken
  25. Kenlsa
    A mate spoke to Jabiru at length when they didn’t have a cooler as ours was overheating (he was a person who did this for a living, think rocket propulsion and turbines) and tried to work out the size of internal finning required. Long story short, fins inside absorb heat from the oil and this heat then travels to the coolest part of the structure (sump) which on the outside has a rough surface so any high temp travels to the tips of the casting and tries to equalise with the cooler atmosphere. Same deal when making a heat sink from ally sheet; when you cut it with shears, don’t file or polish it as the very small rough edges bleed off the heat much quicker than a polished surface. the maths didn’t work out and the factory had already worked thru that internal fin question and found a cooler was a better option. All been done before! Ken
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