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rhtrudder

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Everything posted by rhtrudder

  1. Thanks skip
  2. I wonder where Dick Smith stands on these changes
  3. Yep , did that, seemed ok, blasted off, all good, figured it must have been a stuck needle.
  4. Leaking internally, talked to wal, he seemed to think it was something caught under the needle or sinking floats, about to go flying always a worry when engine can get go you airborne and then starts to play up , not a lot of room to get back to my strip
  5. Finally finished changing all the fuel lines and filters, went flying, engine started to run rough below 4500 , managed to get back on the ground where it stopped with fuel dripping from the exhaust, towed it back to the hanger , discovered the right side carby running fuel with the pumps on , pulled it apart can’t see anything fitted it back on, seemed ok , got it started , try again but noticed the fuel pressure above .6bar map gauge 40 on take off, unsure whether the fuel pressure is running to high and forcing fuel past the needle, so I put it back down again , wondering whether something ended up in the fuel system from the new lines and was keeping the seat open ,
  6. That’s how I understood it
  7. That’s how it all works , the carby bowls are sealed and the breathers are vented to the air box which pressurises the fuel in the bowls , gives it more fuel when running in the boost range
  8. The fuel pressure has to be .25 of a bar over the air box pressure which is feed by the turbo , I bought the gauge years ago but never fitted it , it’s got the sender one side goes to fuel pressure, wet, the other to air pressure in the intake and the read out which goes to 7psi , yankee gauge, tells the fuel pressure above the air box pressure , not sure if I can t it into the balance pipe or fit it into the air box
  9. Trying to figure out whether i can plumb the differential gauge into the carby cross over tube with a T fitting or should it be getting it’s reading straight from the air box ,and then T the wet side of the senser into the fuel pressure gauge tube
  10. The spring type spread the pressure better, but I worry that they could loose their tension, my fuel lines are mostly inside the cab behind the panel last thing I want is a line coming off
  11. Next question, which are the best clamps to use on fuel hose, the spring ones you squeeze together and slide on then release or the plain old worm types which is what I have ,
  12. Thanks for that,
  13. Fuel hose replacement due on my 914, any clues on which is the best
  14. Fitted up skyecho, all registered, turned on , send young bloke up and raced inside to see him on ozrunways but not to be seen , could see other aircraft, what am I missing
  15. Since I removed the disc the vibs have gone, checked the carbs , all good
  16. Pretty sure the prop strike had nothing to do with it, been going on for months, sometimes it was good other times no so , I guess it depended where the weights ended up between flights, will cut it open and see what’s inside, I persevered not realising that was the cause but after fitting the new prop the penny dropped, I only just sold my dyna vibe figuring I didn’t need it
  17. Noticed my plane slowly developing a vibration over the last 6months , ended up replacing my prop, wheels up landing , and the vibs still there so I removed the plate and noticed it had a rattling sound which I didn’t think was there when I fitted it , now vibration has gone , if you have fitted one might pay to get a prop balance to check it out
  18. A inflight adjustable will extract more useful power from your engine , I reckon, factory is good to deal with, look them up, I think they make three sizes in 2 and 3 blade , right and left , tractor and pusher, also wheels and brakes that are fitted to my plane , the controller in mine is a standard vernier type , all available from them , pricey though, your fuel burn looks a bit better than mine , if I hammer mine it will make 130 but burns closer to 25 I think I might bolt on a duc prop and pitch it for cruise, my strip is 800 m heading south , should be ok ,
  19. Happy with the Kašpar , quiet, full fine 5800, about 100 m roll out , cruise 120 at about 5400 and 35 on the map gauge 18 lts , stall about 35, wheels and flaps up climb maybe 1200 at 70 kns. Just clocked up 1700 hrs ,bought at 470 hrs about 10 years ago , 3rd owner, been a great plane , factory certified to 544
  20. It’s a 3 blade in flight adjustable Kaspar 1620mm , made by kasparaero cz
  21. After trial and error with the Kašpar worked out the thrust bearings are shot , to much side play and if tightened up they become notchy, got them a bit better , ok at cruise, big trouble trying to get new prop shipped , so I thought of replacing with a ground adjustable until it turns up but apparently it can’t be done without factory approval which makes it hard because the Sabre mob went into liquidation years ago, the new crowd, skyleader, can’t help, is there anyway around this or should I just fit another prop and get back in the air
  22. Thinking of replacing the prop studs and the flange bushes are they available from floods or the propellor mob
  23. Hell, at that rate mine will be out for sure , I did notice when I tightened the clamp bolts it would change the angle a bit , plane is at lame in deni , I am hoping this is my problem as it is bad enough to not fly it as I said good at cruise but bad when throttling back
  24. If the pitch is not set the same for each blade could that make it vibrate when throttle is retarded, only set the pitch on each blade with a bubble type pitch gauge, took a few goes started off to fine then to course , struggled to reach 5000 on take off, so I split the difference, I was surprised how little movement made the difference , since found out you can use the inclinometer on a phone to check it,
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