Tex

Never mind the engine... what happens if the wind stops?

Nice! Looked like a blue day too?

R620D starts at 4500 with danger area below

Not a tail dragger, you would likely nose over

Well it is pusher prop because the engine position defines the configuration rather than the prop I guess. I think you may be mistaken about the direction PF you turn it on the vertical or horizontal axis the direction is still the same. If you have a tractor than as you see the prop from the cockpit it will be rotating anti-clockwise... Unless the different gear boxes play a part? E type is clockwise.

Clockwise looking from rear forward...

Not enough women in aviation

The engine is also mounted pointing thrust line a little left as well.

Beyond the other mentioned here, I use Ozrunways on my iPad and Co-Pilot on my iPhone.

I think you can also VH register the Sinus... if you wanted to that is...

Last weekend I flew out to Tara... camera went flat [media=vimeo]33216689[/media]

Thanks Kiwi, working this Sunday unfortunately. Maybe the next, I'll give you a call

Frank that is the best solution I have heard, I like it a lot. The question is will you make another one

Contacted Bert Floods and you just need the cover plate and gasket and then run tube between the two carb inlets. Looks like it might have the wrong tube on it so will try replacing those and clamps first... This is because I have the fuel drawing from the bottom tank and so will always be left with at least 10-15 litres (unusable on this set up which is ridiculous but that is another thread topic) in there which I don't want to leave in all the time as pre mix. Would have to consider transfer system to run off top tank I guess. Opinions on that?

It is a grey top with nearly 300 TSO, compression and cyclone bearing test are good. TT is unknown. Using 16lph the last two trips I did and oil use was 387ml per 20l (not sure what is blowing away in the wind though). I would be happier if it was a new engine and pump with injection. The other problem I have it is being run on synthetic and I want to go to Active 2T. Anyone got any advice on the required items? Cover plate only?

Thanks Bill I understand now It sounds to me like a measurable risk also, but I think I could overcome that a lot with good engine management. I was taught not to be ham fisted on the throttle with the 2 stroke and avoid those long periods of decent at no power, even add some power smoothly for very a short period on other wise good glide approaches just to keep the engine in the right condition for a go around. Run the engine smoothly and with those points in mind it occurs to me you should be able to assist good fuel/oil. cf the risk of flying over unavaoidable unlandable terrain wondering if the engine is getting the right oil at power. Interesting.

Yes Geoff, that is what I am thinking, it's function is in doubt.

PS I had the injection system explained to me recently and it is suboptimal IMO. I understand it alternates between carbs... a drop here and a drop there?

Hi Bill, How does the lubricant reduce with less power? If it is getting fuel isn't it getting lubricant... pre mixed that is If I had a brand new engine I might do the same... Mine is old. It is leaking and I think it is coming from the check valve/s (Dripping down the black oil lines and blowing out the back). Either they have dirt or grit in them OR the valve is not closing right even though the marks line up at idle. The throttle and injection cables needed adjustment (as they were real loose and needed to take up slack) and at that time we realigned the oil injection cable and lengths as well. It leaked a 'little' before but now it seems like a 'little' more. I want to take it off because it is leaking and perhaps reduce drag and weight a little. Primarily though I am thinking I will do this because it is less complicated, less to go wrong. I have heard the various arguments and was myself stuck on the post mix because I trusted it and it is more convenient and you can carry more oil for longer flights easier. The more I contemplate it and hear opinions each way there does appear to me less risk with the pre-mix. Case in point is my scenario here: just how much oil is getting in with the fuel and how much is leaking out? All you can go by is total consumption. As I see it you don't really know what your oil injection is doing at any given moment, we know they add LESS oil at times. More complicated means more risk (even if unlikely). With Pre mix it means having to carry an extra container (or more oil elsewhere) and besides what Bill says above there doesn't seem to be many other problems besides the pilot that can go wrong. Any tips on the changeover requirements?

I am thinking I will take off my Oil injection system. What is involved: Do I just buy a cover plate for the pump inlet? What about the oil injections holes into the carb manifold... how are they covered blocked with something? Cheers

Hi Sandman, Sorry forgot to get the pic I promised but here is a 'before' photo of mine... the red line is where it is now routed, required shortening the hose some and the line sits on the outside of the throttle cable.

A used model doesn't appeal?

Don't think Wayne is doing them as kits anymore, but you can get a variety of flavours or mixtures from him that is for sure, even certified now I understand.

Do it!