Bodie

Here are some of the rivits I ordered from Aircraft Spruce to replace some of the rivets that needed to be drilled out 🤐... I was told to get these by the North American distributor as a match for the A3 - A5's. I also needed a few with different length shanks, and a few countersunk ones but those were kind of self-apparent at the time.... hope this helps.... 1661-0512 DOME AVEX RIVET (PACK OF 50) Part #: 04-01949-50 Mfr Part #: 79093-50 $5.000 / EA AVEX RIVET # 1601-0410 Part #: 1601-0410 Mfr Part #: 1601-041 $0.090 / PC-10.0% Net $0.081 1601-0414 AVEX RIVETS Part #: 1601-0414 Mfr Part #: 1601-0414 $0.080 / PC-10.0% Net $0.072

I needed help with the extensions. One guy on the outside holding and pushing and one guy on the inside holding, adding clecos, and drilling rivet holes. Less than ideal anyway. I don't think I could have done it alone. And yes, the roof was / is a puzzlement for sure. Best thing to keep in mind is that some things are structural and some things are cosmetic. I didn't mess with the structural as I'm not a designer / test pilot. As far as cosmetics go, with the "experimental / amateur built" designation feel free to exercise a bit of your own ingenuity. At times, I wondered if the Italians engaged the Chinese to translate the manual into English. Truth be told though, after reading the troublesome parts (including the pages before and after) most of it makes sense. This forum was the best help for all things not understood, however.

Don't know if you got this all sorted or not, but I snapped a few pics of my install. I didn't rivet the lexan on the roof panel. Instead I used urethane automotive glass adhesive on the edge. The rest of the pieces fit with quite a bit of fiddling around. One side of the wing leading edge extensions turned out better than the other, but that's the way the world works sometimes!

Hey Bryan. I was able to get some pics for you. I hope they help. Please ignore the paint runs in the third pic. Don't paint outdoors in a cold November in Montana! -steve

I looked at my Savannah to remember what I ended up doing, and here are some pics. Not sure if this explains well enough, but I made a hacksaw cut appx 70-75% around the end of the yoke, then I resized the pipe. I can't remember if the y yoke pipe is smaller or larger than the plastic end of the grip that inserts into the y yoke (see pdf). I then fit the G205 head into the yoke and rivited it in on opposite sides. You have to be mindful of the rivits ends so that they don't interfere with any of the electronic parts inside of the plastic. The foam grip went on before this with soap and water, then it was gently worked up. It fits well. I have to find another foam grip so that I can junk out the tricycle handle bar grip on the other side. Hope this helps. -steve 2023-04-05 (1).pdf

The stock rubber grip is something I remember from 55 years ago on my tricycle! I chucked it and used the ray allen g205 that I got from aircraft spruce. I had to do a slight bit of modification but I can’t remember exactly what I did. I can take a look next time I’m in the hangar. It wasn’t hard to get to fit up. -steve

I thought I'd throw a couple of pics up after taking to some of the folks via PM. I copied the Fuel Selector and Return header as well as a variation of the master battery disconnect from folks on this site (all sourced on Amazon. I didn't do the improved flap handle yet. In the USA we can get a Repairman Certificate if we are the original builder of the kit. I just got that today too, so I can do a yearly inspection in lieu of paying someone for an Annual. -steve

Hi All! I just wanted to shout out a big Thank You to all the folks on this forum. If it wasn't for folks from all over the world, especially Australia and New Zealand my Savannah S project wouldn't have been completed as soon or as easy as it was. In particular Kyle Communications and iBob's threads had a lot of tips and tricks, and the back and forth with the other folks clarified most situations I came up against. Whether it was wiring, fuel tanks, manual clarifications, etc the problems were all sorted out, many times by searching through other threads. I was building my plane for way too long, got interrupted by life way too many times but persevered. When I hit the point where I didn't know if I would ever finish I read somewhere (not sure if it was here or not) that I just needed to do something every day. Anyway, I started the project in October of 2015, and I witnessed flight today. I still need to get my license, but at least I have my plane! It was great to finally see some air underneath the tires, and someday soon I will fly her myself! Thanks again! -steve IMG_4128.MOV IMG_4129.MOV IMG_4131.MOV IMG_4132.MOV

Thanks guys! Here's my best guess. The 50 amp fuse and wires are a part that is bought from another supplier, hence Marty_d's 701 and the Savannah are the same. I re-read Mark Kyle's response and I will use one wire for the resistor and clip the other then terminate it in heat shrink!

Thanks guys. I'm tracking what you're saying Ibob. I have the one end of the 50 amp fuse connected to the battery wire on the solenoid. I stuck the white paper in for a clearer picture. So then the other side of the 50 amp fuse goes to the battery terminal of the voltage regulator. That's good so far. The picture you sent of Marty_d's is the same as my dilemma, where are the other two wires supposed to go? And namadpete, I too would have expected the schematic to explain things, but apparently there are just things that the Italians like to leave to chance in their manual. They have a great schematic of the cabin side, but no schematic of the other side of the firewall.... so are you suggesting that the 22mF capacitor should be connected to one of the spare wires? I've attached another pic with the detail the first pic lacked. One side of the 50 amp fuse connects to battery terminal of starter solenoid. On the other side of the 50 amp fuse one leg goes to the battery terminal of the voltage regulator, and the other two have no obvious place to go..... Also, not wanting to encourage thread drift by any means since I would like the electrical issue solved 😉, have attached a few current pics of my 6 year project!

Hi all. I got what I think should be a simple question, but can't find a logical solution. After the 50 amp fuse in the engine compartment, there are three wires. One goes to the "Bat" on the regulator. The other two wires are the ones that I don't k now where they connect to. Can someone tell me where item #1 and item #2 are supposed to connect to? Thanks! -steve

Thanks for the info. From previous posts on the savannah forum I read I had already done that, although only on the left seat where the fuel, electric, flap control, etc go. I didn't think there was much need to get under the right seat except I see a few folks place electric fuel pumps on that side.

Hi Perry. Thanks so much. The pics are perfect, and you have a nice tidy setup. Appreciate the commentary about keeping clearances in mind. -steve

Thanks IBob. So it looks like you ran both brake lines into the cabin on the left hand side? Did you go under the seats through the tunnel? -steve

Hi folks. Finally seeing some progress now that I am in the 90% completed and only have 90% to go category. I was wondering if someone could post a pic of the completed dual brake setup showing the routing of the brake lines and how they loop from the master cylinders to the slave cylinders. I'm just not exactly sure how much excess line to leave in the loop for clearance, etc. Once again, the instructions have been a bit less than stellar.... Any advice would be welcome. Also thanks again for all the great posts. This site has been a wealth of information. -steve