Marty. There is some good advice here, but I would suggest you go to the acknowledged expert.
Look up Bob Nuckolls on Google. You will see articles in Kitplanes magazine That is a good start.
What we can advise here is possibly not going to cover what you need and could even be misleading. I have wired two aircraft using Bob Nuckolls techniques.
My own words of advice are use co axial wiring where recommended around radios and also for the P leads. That is the leads from the magneto, back to the mag switches, also try to run them separately from CHT or EGT wiring. I see nothing wrong with an ignition switch such as used in GA aircraft, rather than individual mag switches. I have used both. Think about future needs and maybe run extra wires through the firewall or other bulkheads. For wires into the wings, consider disconnect plugs in case the wings need to come off.
Make sure you have a heavy enough cable to take starter loads, It could well work when too small, but the battery has to be top knotch to keep it going and it will overheat. Take great care with the earth connections, my experience tells me that a lot of hard to track faults come back to poor earths.
Consider how you will do future maintenance, you may want to be able to remove the panel. Would multi connector plugs enable you to get easier access, also how about a bit of extra wire length, for wiggle room. If you use aviation style relays, they are quite large and heavy and need to be mounted so that G loads do not cause them to contact or break contact.
Wiring at the battery can be made better if you have only two wires to it and the isolation switch right beside the battery, that is if it is in a position to be easily reached. Then you have a pos. and neg. busbar adjacent, where multiple wires can be attached,
Most commonly used aviation grade wire is white. It can be bought in about 7 or 8 colours, but you need to know exactly how much you need to prevent waste.
It is possible to get a machine to write onto wire or shrink wrap, or you can use several colours of shrink wrap in short lengths to code each end of the wire. Have a look at Jim Weir in Kitplanes, I have seen articles about it there.
Length of run of cables does affect current seriously, especially the heavy cables. Make sure the earth from the engine to the battery, which goes through the firewall cannot disconnect or come loose, if that happens all the earth return will be going through the small leads between engine and earth. Not coolUse good quality connectors and make sure there is no load on them, shrink wrap alongside any joint will reduce vibration effects.
Over the years the most annoying things about my own installations have been access to the battery and trying to add extra wires through the firewall.