Ron Hoey

Hi All, My LAME suggested the best place to pick up warm air is behind the Oil Cooler. The air is fresh, as it comes straight through the radiator, and there is no need to cut into the cowling (and re-join it when replacing the cowling). I got lucky when I found a discarded vacuum cleaner hose with a curved aluminium fitting on the suction hose. Just the right diameter and with the perfect bend. (See Photos). I cut the end to sit behind the Oil Cooler, but far enough away from it to prevent vibration rubbing it against the radiator and damaging it. A bit of Scat hose on the other end allowed for a bend to the installed tube under the muffler. To top it off I put a 12 volt computer fan on the footwell outlet to assist the airflow. My kit didn't include a de-mister. Hoping this is of assistance. Blue Skies, Ron. Sorry about the photos being upside down. How do you prevent/fix this?

Hi all, I have a new nose wheel yoke for a standard Savannah tyre for sale. (I fitted Tundra Tyres). Reasonable offer and postage. 0439 854 266 (Sorry about the image, no matter what I did it came out sideways!!!???)

Hi Lyndon, I completed my VG XL in 2010, and during construction I read a few blogs warning against putting the through-wing breathers between tanks, as a tank movement can block the breather and stop fuel flow from that tank. Consequently I put breathers in the fuel caps (copied from a Gazelle) and they work perfectly. This was also suggested by another follower, I see. I am in Adelaide and would be glad to be of any assistance. PM me and set up comms. Ron

Yes, this is similar to the modified replacement I got from Reg. I'll see if I can re-post the photos as I think it is important for us to keep an eye on it. Hopefully the strengthener will prevent a re-occurrence, but will keep an eye on mine. Yes, that's

Hi all, Recently, when doing an inspection of my VG XL, I discovered cracks in the bracket which supports the steering wheel channel on the nose leg. The cracks were on both sides of the assembly and you will see from the photos, penetrated all three layers. No need to tell you the consequences of a nose wheel failure. Fortunately I was able to get a steering wheel channel, reinforcement, and new nose leg support from AeroKits. The ring mount allowed us (just) enough room to change it over without removing the engine. The replacement is a modification to strengthen the area and hopefully eliminate a repeat of the issue, so it is obviously a problem which has raised its head before. Consequently, I think we would all be wise to include this item in regular inspections. Regards to all, Ron. Attached Files: a" style="margin: 0px; padding: 10px 10px 0px; overflow: hidden; zoom: 1; border-radius: 5px; background: url("styles/default/xenforo/gradients/category-23px-light.png") 50% 0% repeat-x rgb(238, 241, 244);"> Left side view. note cracks in all 3 components. File size: 58.9 KB Views: 0 The assembly after removal. File size: 26 KB Views: 0

Thanks all, there were some good ideas for me to follow up. The problem is, I am one of the few pilots whose wife loves to fly. As we approach our 70th birthdays, my dear First Officer is subject to the heat/cool problems associated women of that vintage. So the clothing ideas and moving to Queensland won't necessarily work. The rest I will give a try and post back my results. Thanks again and Blue Skies to you all. Ron.

Hi all, Have any of you made any improvements to the cabin heater in your Savvy? Any advice would be appreciated. Blue Skies, Ron.

I ran the checks I mentioned in an earlier post and it was the sender unit. I replaced it and ran a test and it works OK. I believe it is a common problem. If any of you have the air lock problem, it is easily solved by adding a breather to the top of the collector tank and running a tube up to the fuel return line to the RH tank using a kit supplied by an agent. (I was fortunate enough to have received this advice before I built). Blue skies, Ron.

Hi Peter, I had a similar situation with my Savannah. It could be one of 2 things as far as I know. Firstly it could be a faulty sender as you suggested or secondly it could be the wire coming back to the sender earthing out (this is how the light is activated, by the negative side of the circuit being connected to earth through the closing switch on the sender unit. To find out which problem is yours, disconnect the spade connection on one of the wires coming off the sender unit (there is only one with a connection). With the master switch on, if the light stays on, it is an earthing problem, if it goes out it is the sender unit. Hope this helps. Ron.

Sounds like a great idea to me. Depending on work schedules of course, but please get it started and make it an annual event. And keep me informed, I'm keen. Ron.

Hi all, I am fitting an extra (necessary) instrument to my panel and, as there is no other space available, I have elected to take the slip ball out of the 2.25 inch hole and insert the new instrument there-in. This leaves me with a problem, as I consider the slip ball as a necessary instrument. I have heard of a small stick-on or screw-on slip ball but have not been able to source one on the net. Can anybody lead me in the right direction? Many thanks, Blue skies, Ron.

Thanks Terry, I have been laboring under a misapprehension. My apologies to all. Ron.

Did you only weigh the carpet you are going to use?