techie49

Hi Ian and John, I was hoping one or both of you might pop up and give me some good info. John, I remember you previously telling me you were running an SU but they come in varying sizes and models so at least now I can go to the wreckers and see what they have. Ian, I'd be very happy to see some pics as the next question I need to ask is about the I/L manifold. I have the original with the water passing through it but again, ask ten people and you'll get ten different answers about keeping the original or building an unheated one. What have you done? PD, I remember the Gunsons Colorplug and yes it did work ! The problem I've had on the zodiac's EA81 is the twin Bings. Even after changing to a two-blade Bolly, the idle is still not what I'd like and I get significant vibration below about 1500rpm. I think I may have to visit one of the maintainers and see if they can adjust it. This is one reason I want to go to a decent single on the 'spare' engine. I am trying to keep the costs down as I still need to get a PSRU. Having made enquiries, I'm looking towards a Rotax C box. The Air Trikes unit from Canada looked good but Vassili has moved on to doing boxes for the more modern Soobs. The local agent in Brisbane had one left but wanted me to send him the complete engine and $2900. Probably not bad but the Rotax even with an adapter to bolt to the flywheel shouldn't take me that high I hope. I was quoted $1400 for the box ,plus GST I suppose. Thanks so much to everyone for all your suggestions. Whilst we're here and having mentioned it, what about PSRU's ................ Paul

Hi OK, I looked at the Rotec unit today on their website. Coincidentally they seem to setting up at Tyabb where the Zodiac lives. I waiting on a price but I've been told around $700 which seems a little pricey . Sell it to me with some more info....... Paul

Hi Everyone, You may remember earlier in the year I was looking for an EJ22 engine or similar. I looked at the EA81 in the Zodiac and thought how difficult it would be to change to an EJ22, so I've managed to get another EA81 which has come back now from the local engine reconditioner. It's got a nice new set of pistons, reground crank and new bearings all round, including the piston pin end of the con rods, gudgeon pins or piston pins depending on where you come from. The heads have been skimmed and rebuilt too. So all in all it will be almost like starting from new. What I really need now is some practical help on choosing a carb. John, Bushcaddy 105, I think told me he runs an SU carb on his EA81 but I don't know from what vehicle. It needs to be as large as possible to get the maximum fuel / air mix into the cylinders. I've looked at Weber carbs but they are quite pricey at around $500. If I have to spend that kind of money well fair enough but has anyone out there any practical suggestions based on experience? Paul. .

Still on the lookout for a reasonably priced EJ22 or EJ25. Currently looking at scrappers with rear end damage. Paul

Hi Spacesailor, I've sent a PM re. the engine....................... Paul

Hi Spacesailor, Sounds good. Can you PM me with some more details please. What vehicle, year, and engine type if available and a price range please as I don't want to insult you by making a silly offer. I need to id the engine type as I've been warned off a particular one where if the timing belt breaks, the engine sustains serious damage. Paul.

Little more than I wanted to pay but thanks....... Paul

Hi John, Yes I think the same. Fortunately my Zodiac is VH experimental. Have you any idea of the weight of the EJ22? I was thinking of using the Megasquirt although I've never even seen one, but they seem to be a standard. I'm just getting the bits together to put the Ford EDIS on the EA81. This is why I wanted the spare engine. I'm getting the Megajolt unit for it and a trigger wheel, etc. The other fly in the ointment is the fact the EJ is EFI. Means I'll need a header tank for the fuel system as I can't put in return pipes very easily on the two wing tanks. Think I'll start looking for a Liberty engine. Do you know if people are using direct drive or fitting a PSRU? I could see DD being ok if you keep the revs down but of course you wouldn't be getting the power so you may as well stick to the EA81. Incidentally John what's the carb system on your EA81? I've got twin Bings but am considering a single Weber. One less to go wrong or fall off . Regards, Paul

Hi Everyone, Is anyone flying anything other than the EA81 1.8l engine? I've been trying to get hold of a spare EA81 to play with and test mods to the ignition and timing,etc but they are a little scarce. I've recently looked at the EJ22 from the Liberty. It's a 2.2l fuel-injected engine giving about 135hp @4800rpm. If you can get it to run without the OEM ECU, which needs every sensor going, I wonder if it would be a viable conversion. Anyone any practical knowledge or suggestions?? Paul

You forgot to mention too Kaz, and I can say this with tongue firmly in cheek as an ex-Brit, if the system is so bad here why did a Great Train robber want to come here and also an ex-British Government minister (John Stonehouse) was here, but wasn't really! As far as Montgomery was concerned, you should read the 'Enigma' story. Even with all the intelligence fed to him he still tried desperately to stuff things up in North Africa and finally managed to do so in Holland. Paul

I'm after a Subaru EA81 engine if anyone's got one for sale - see classified section Paul

Hi Horsefeathers, If you solved this one please ignore this reply. If people can hear you on the ground ask them to report on your voice level (modulation). If that's good the problem can really only be the fact your signal in the air is not going where you need it to go. If you're using a quarter-wave whip without a decent ground plane (metal plate or whole fuselage), the signal is probably heading for space instead of horizontally or downwards. As has been suggested by others, a SWR meter at the HH end will give you an idea of the state of feeder and aerial. If the swr is poor (more than 3:1) ratio, your radio may be shutting down the output stage to protect it. This will reduce the signal transmitted. If you don't have a good groundplane, a dipole may be the answer. Again though you need to set it up with a SWR meter to ensure a good match and adjust it to be as clear of metalwork as possible. Paul Toone

Ignitions are two home brew electronic units. Both totally different deliberately. One is cap discharge and the other a transistor coil driver. Using two independent coils and a MSI coil combiner. The engine is straight from a Cobra Arrow, from Tom Wickers, who designed it. The flywheel is standard and everything is EA81 apart from the twin Bing carbs on a specially made manifold. There are supposedly at least 60 of these set ups out there. I'll have a play with the idle adjust on each carb as suggested in #15 above. I've already tried to match the throttle cable actions as closely as possible but trying to do any adjustment with the engine trying to shake itself off the aircraft is very difficult. The idle adjust is under the carb which doesn't help. Paul.

Hi Peter, Interesting. When I got it from Tom about three years ago, it had two small radiators and a home made air box. It came with a Rotax gearbox too. I have replaced the rad with a conventional one slung underneath. Can't understand what's going on at present. At 1500 it shakes the whole aircraft when the prop is on ........... Paul

To be truthful, I've no idea. The Rotax box came attached to the EA81 on a purpose made adapter plate in thick aluminium. The engine came off a Cobra Arrow as the owner apparently wanted something bigger. It's got low hours since original installation so I've no reason to suggest it was having problems initially. Paul

I will try to get hold of a manometer or similar to check the carb balance. I really hate twin carbs for this reason but the manifold is designed for twins. I just can't pin down what is going on, hence checking prop balance as I can't think of anything else at present. Paul

Pitch is set to within 0.5 degrees on each blade. I've got the prop off and I'm trying to check the balance. One of the guys at Tyabb offered the use of a dynamic balancer but I haven't caught him in his hanger yet. The whole situation is peculiar as at speed it's smooth. Just at idle rpm I'm having problems..............................???????? Paul

New and all tightened up nicely .........................(assuming you mean the engine mounts)

If you mean using a manometer - no Both carbs are set as near as damn it identically and the engine runs ok without the prop. No - wish I did have another prop to compare with. I'd thought of that one as well. I was thinking of trying a two-blade prop. Paul.

Hi All, Is there anyone out there that can assist with a problem I have setting up the engine in my Zodiac 601? The engine is a Tom Wickers conversion with twin Bing 64 carbs. Prop is a new Bolly 72 x 60 three blade. The prop is set at 13 degrees pitch. The problem I have is that the damn engine almost shakes the airframe apart at anything under about 2500 rpm. I've carefully dismantled the carbs to check for crap in the bowls - clean. I've removed the idle jet in each and made sure they're not blocked. I've checked the setting of the idle adjuster and set both to 1 1/2 turns out from fully clockwise. Still no good. Yesterday I took the prop off and ran the engine. I slightly adjusted the timing to give smooth running at 1500 rpm which gives a prop speed reduced by the rotax gearbox to about 700 ish rpm. Without the prop the engine runs ok but putting the prop back on causes the shaking. It's only at low speed though. My logic suggests the prop is ok as at high speed it's ok with little vibration. Anyone got any ideas? This three year build is tantalisingly complete but for this problem. Don't suggest buying a Rotax - had I the cash I would have! I'm about to check the prop balance although the Bolly figures supplied suggest it's balanced perfectly. HELLLLLP !!!!!!!! Paul

Cheers both. I'll certainly keep the 'everyoring' for future reference. One point is of course how big is the original o ring? I finally paid the silly price at BF but found the new one smaller than the old. It's on the carb now but if I had taken the size of the old one it may have been an incorrect fit. Paul.

I tried Autobarn et al but although they had o rings they were rubber. I think the correct ones are nitrile and so are fuel resistant. It would be awkward to have one go during flight and have fuel dripping onto the hot engine and exhaust. I' m going to Bert Flood tomorrow as I emailed and they apparently have the correct ones . Thank goodness though I didn't need anything complicated ! Thanks all for the good suggestions. Paul

Yes. I thought of that one too. I'm hoping to try that this week. One motor shop tried to sell me a Holley overhaul kit for $34 !!! Considering Bing 64's are fairly well used, there's no one, or at least I've not discovered them, that advertises the parts. Paul

Anyone know of a source of Bing 64 carb parts. I'd guess most would suggest Bert Flood but is there anywhere else ? I can't believe how difficult it is to get an O ring for the idle adjuster. A simple part but essential. Paul Toone