Lyndon
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Everything posted by Lyndon
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Fuel level pipe info required please.. I see you attach some fuel line to the outlets on the tank and clamp obviously. Then the rislan tube goes into the fuel line and I take it you also clamp it. Doesn't seem right to me but it does work ????. Also just typical my bottom outlet does not line up with the hole at all. Right on the edge which is a Bugger. Lyndon
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More paint
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I knew it was wrong. Thanks Lyndon
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Progress
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Gday. Before I paint is this the correct way. The bracket angles down ??. Thanks Lyndon
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A general question about using private land for operating my Savannah. Specifically in the Adelaide area. Are there restrictions or what you do on your land is your business. Next question is does this change if I have one or two other friends use it as well. Lyndon
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Done one rebuilt Rotax. What a lovely little engine to work on .Carbs rebuilt. Gearbox. Long motor. Drip trays fitted. Should run like a treat.
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Its a late model engine. I have the manual. There is no groove for the o ring. Clearly there was some sort of vibration in the needle to wear so much. The only thing holding the c clip was the o ring. I have ordered two more needles and new c clips Lyndon
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It's got the orings. 1740 hrs. At a guess it was shot about 5 or 600 hrs and another 300 or 400 the needle would be in two. Mind you only one carb the other is perfect. Lyndon
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On another note I have overhauled the carbs. Quite surprised to see one carb as almost had the jet needle worn so much on the c clip it has almost cut it clean thru. Lyndon
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I'm not quite sure. Manifold to rubber carb mount I had an o ring. Now I fit the trays. They use the o ring to the Manifold. The rubber carb mount now has no o ring or gasket. The manual shows a gasket but not needed for the uls. Thoughts please from someone who had first hand experience. Thanks Lyndon
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I'm perplexed. It's a bucket and was expecting it to handle a failure of the needle and seat. This is of no use except the odd drop from a carburetor that is not in good order. It needs a 3/8 or 1/2 drain be of any use. Lucky if I have an 1/8. I will fit some drains that actually may work . Lyndon
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Fitting the heads with out the studs makes it a breeze so the push rod orings seat nicely. I've actually bonded with this engine. It's a very nice bit of kit.
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It's a four dollar wesfil.
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My tool works fine. But fidley but I'm very happy with the circlips.
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The clearance was perfect. On a note the piston gudgeon circlips are just about impossible to install in a manner that would not be considered rough. I have made a tool and done some trial runs with the old circlips on the bench. I have yet to try it while the piston is on the rod. The special tool is over 500 bucks but does allow you to install the piston in the barrel on the bench which would be very nice. My way won't allow that as I'm thinking I will need all the room plus some. Hopefully on the weekend I will have a go.
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Sure won't. It's a long way away but.
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Making some progress. I intend to prime the oil pump and fill the engine prior to fitting the top end. That way I won't wipe off all my cam lube. Then I should be able to fire it up with minimal engine turning. Lyndon
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I have ordered a set from the UK along with some parts for the carbs that I'm giving the once over. Lyndon
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I've painted the cases in a nice Matt black. Came up really nice
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Timing Mark and gear
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Seal and cirlclip
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I've been a bit quiet lately. You won't believe but 17 weeks to get my cam done. I've stopped my build till I sort the engine. I had allowed about five or six weeks all up. Apparently there is unemployed people in Australia. Well when I try to get something done it takes for ever and then it's not done correctly. It's been a comedy of errors. Anyway it's now sorted. New orings in the cases. New circlip and seal. Timing Mark aligned and gear in place before cam. All five dowels in place.
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Thanks I will get one. Lyndon
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I think your correct. It's a one off Rotax thread.
