Lyndon
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Everything posted by Lyndon
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Measure twice drill once
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Correction. I have two manifolds. Then two outlets to the header. In your experience one manifold on each side upper. Or both on the drivers side. I'm thinking what is best for ease of operation. Lyndon
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ok. Im fitting the tanks. Just confirming. Sight plastic pipe in the left tank inner. The left wing has two outlets, one for each tank, [ how long do need to have these fuel lines. ] I have the manifold kit from Reg. ???? The right tanks, two outlets one from each tank. How long for the fuel lines to manifold. then one fuel line which is a return line to the inner tank . Im asking allowable lengths of fuel line as dont want to be short and I have no experience in this and I dont have the fuse done to measure it. All four tanks plumbed to the manifold which sits behind the driver I think. From there a single line goes to the header tank. Correct ??? Thanks Lyndon
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Ok I will keep looking. But I clearly have wrong as this pre drilled hole lines up with a curved surface.
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Is it just me or ???. Manual is very unclear.
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This is the wrong way around. Eg the glass is on the outside. Can't see any reason why this would not work and it looks better. Thought s ??? Lyndon
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Thanks. I shall wait to some better pics. I've got it very close . But it won't hurt to see what you have done. Lyndon
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Did you trim your glass corner at all. The pics seem to show it cut on the top rear where it fits under skin and angular. Lyndon
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I see with interest the wooden template for the wing tip. Good idea. I'm doing the same but it still takes a bit to get right. I'm still fiddling. Be nicer if that bent angular on the top was pre drilled. I'm guessing as long it's looks nice and both are the same. Eg the glass tip looks like it can go 10 mm either way at the front. Lyndon
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Makes sense
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That's after I damage it ???
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Thanks for that. I have noticed that my angulars for my lower skin outers. Two on each side. They are shaped for the wing tip. Manual wants the bend on these towards the spar. Well that is impossible as all four of mine are identical. On this right wing the angle faces away from the spar. Then on the left wing the angle will face the spar. Two have one number the other two another number. But all four are the same. It's just an anti rattle brave so I'm happy with that.
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Manual is clear as mud. But I'm sure it's not overly important. I'm presuming seeing these skins are fitted secondly they go this way. ??? Lyndon
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For piece of mind I can send some pics of a 1740 hrs pump. Like brand new. Some housing marks a per normal but gear s perfect. Did you buy this engine recently ????
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Your quite correct. It's just insane. WHY. If you find out love to know why . Lyndon
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I've never done a Rotax. But I'm doing mine now. Bikes and cars only. I'm sure your mechanic is onto it but in my experience. Use only three bond with an 11. It's rubber . Not a 12. It's silicon. All silicons worm. There is lots on that motor that uses sealer. Just my opinion. Ps three bond is with out a doubt the best stuff
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I would be interested if you could ask the oil experts where the zinc is from and what oil was run in it. A flat tappet cam like your Rotax likes about 1300 ppm which is a challenge to find in today's oils.
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The more a filter gets shit in it the better it filters. Thus your oil pressure increases. So in fact it's filtering better than a new one
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How does brass get pass your filter ???
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How can the be. Oil to rockers come up the push rod. After that it goes no we're. It goes back thur the filter
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I still can't get over someone putting a bronze Bush in there. It would have to be a case of loosing an original part. In a rush . We can't wait and 10 minutes later on a lathe we have all new bushes. Don't worry I've seen this stuff in engines before they would have said. Rotax put the plastic bush in there for a reason I'm sure. The consequences of it could have been dire. In a way your very lucky
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The filter is not designed for that. It's for cold climate s and thick oil. It would not happen here. A rebuild with silicon for example. Minus 20 start up with a 60 weight racing oil in a Porsche. Then yes worming can be an issue. Block galleries and even when the filter is working again in say 60 seconds. It's to late. That engine will fail as it has blocked galleries. In Australia with a say a 40 or 50 oil it's never going to bypass.
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If the oil has gone thru the filter it will be fine. What can fit thru a filter will fit thru the engine without a problem. That's how it's designed. It's deemed small enough. Otherwise they would change the micron filter ing in the filter
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A filter that full that it bypasses. Wow. If that were the case the shit in oil would lunch that engine in no time. It would be very easy to see once it's apart. Probably not even good for parts
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I've seen many failures in late model bikes. Catastrophic gear box and roller bearing failures etc. Most if not all once the engine is pulled apart and the pump found to be ok they are just cleaned the failed part replaced and are just fine. Pressing the crank apart to see if the filter didn't work seems over the top. You can pull plenty of stuff apart to check for wear that is easy to access. If it doesn't look new at those hrs then you may consider shit it the oil has done it and I'm thinking it would be uneconomical to repair. But why would a valve train wear. Excessive load on it may wear the bushings. Tight guide or incorrect valve springs ????. I would be having good look at the cam as well. They are nitraded so at a guess maybe two thousand of an inch deep and then it's cheese. The lifters have at least 2mm of hardening on them. If these are fine then I don't think you have much of an issue. Lyndon
