Lyndon
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Everything posted by Lyndon
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Wings and long range tanks. I have bought the long range tanks. About to skin the wings. Any tips. I'm thinking skin the top as per manual. Dummy fit the tanks and cut the filler hole. Then rivet up the top skin. Flip it over and fit the bottom skin. With the tank in place I can then cut it accurately. Basically dummy fit up. Common sense then cut. Any tips would be great. Nothing in the manual re the long range tanks. Thanks Lyndon
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Does anyone know the torque settings for tha case bolts. Or where I can them. Seems to be nothing on the net where I'm looking. Lyndon
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1972 all over again.
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Camshaft. After many sleepless nights I'm getting the cam reground along with the lifters. At 150 bucks it cheap and it's done properly. It's very little work to get it out with none or very little cost in parts. As you see it's pretty good. It looks worse than it is as you can only just feel spalling. Strangely it's only on the rear lobes there is wear. Lyndon
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Thanks Lyndon
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I have three of these. I have three wheels. Am I missing something ??? They are steel and look to same as my fuselage cage. Lyndon
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Fantastic. At least I'm not alone. Or doing anything wrong. They are just shit from. That I can deal with. As long as it's not me. Thanks Lyndon
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The brakes are absolute junk. Nothing fits. The spacers don't. It also looks like to remove the wheel you remove the rotor first. That with unsealed bearings. What an absolute mish mash
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I've got nothing about discs in my manual. From what I see you remove the caliper or the rotor to facilitate the wheel removal ???. Pretty sure I have it correct. Lyndon
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Does someone have a link to the manual for my disc brakes. My manual has drum brakes and the kit has discs. Thanks Lyndon
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Nope that's me and my paint gun. Lot of prep but all done in Saturn two pack. Basically nothing on the plane will not at least have a lick of two pack primer. Lyndon
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Surprisingly I went through the manual twenty times and could not find where the drilling instructions are. Some verniers and with all three measured they are all the same. I fitted up a tundra with the ride on mower tube. All interchangeable and very happy with how they all fitted up. Lyndon
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I have drilled the rims. Easy done and my reasoning is. My tundra tyres came with expensive aircraft tubes that have offset valves. So that leaves me with three of the supplied tubes. So if all are the same they will all take the Two spare tubes that I now have. I'm sure the front condor with the cheap tube will be fine as the tyre is very robust. As my primary issue will puncture resistance. Lyndon
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Yep I agree. Will sort tomorrow and order them
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Thanks. I will make a call tomorrow and I think centered right angle tubes are the go. Lyndon
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Fantastic. I will look into it. Lyndon
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I'm doing the wheels as I'm waiting for parts. Are they serious. Tubes don't line up with the rims. Holes are in the center. Tubes are off set. What's the go. New rims or tubes or what. Surely a puncture or the tube will be holed while in the middle of nowhere. Or as rough as they are do they work. I'm thinking of 're drilling the rims for valve stem Lyndon
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No worries. I improvise and fit them on top. Not a biggie but I can't find a regulator slash rectifier in my kit ??? No exhaust manifold gaskets I take it ??? Does the Rotax come with the hose fittings on the oil tank as mine didn't Last but not least. Before I start painting I don't need to run cables or wires anywhere in the plane. Eg wings and tail plane. ( I have to wiring for the stab control already in place ) Lyndon
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I see by build pics that these fit similar to the tail plastics. Eg some aluminum fitted and then fit these to the aluminum. They need to be on top as it's too small to slide over and rivet. But my parts manual shows no such parts ??? Thanks Lyndon
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All I can find is house stuff. Lyndon
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So I'm guessing heat and unscrew it.
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That is good news. Will have a crack at redoing then them. Lyndon
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I have coolant elbows bolted with an o ring. But the design is these are sweated where it leaks. Lyndon
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I have had time to clean and measure it. Been busy with a race engine that has ruined 4 k worth of titanium valves and the head as well at another 3 k. The joys of motor cyles Surprisingly the rings are well worn and the bore has zero wear. The bore fair enough but the rings were well shot before 1740 hrs. The guides are perfect so I'm thinking the shitty k and n filters did ok and dirt did not wear them. One thing I can't work out. Why sweat a fitting into a housing that runs a nice o ring. Only to leak where it's been sweated. Why not have an o ring and and collar. Cheaper and it actually seals. All my water outlets have leaked coolant. Yes I know glycol finds every weep but its unacceptable and such a easy fix. So I have something in mind. If it works I Will share it. Ps the bores wernt touched. My opinion is anything done to it will not be as good as leaving it. A good clean and she will be fine. Lyndon
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On initial inspection they are all still honed nicely. At best I will give them a wipe with a scotch brite. Lyndon
