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IBob

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Everything posted by IBob

  1. Yep, a huge number of boats and ships lost.....including the entire British Channel Fleet. I read a harrowing account of vessels of all size, trying to anchor off the East of England rather than get wrecked in the surf.....all in sight of each other and some with their anchors dragging, cutting down their masts and rigging and still being dragged. Once they hit the surf they were gone.........you can't float in surf but you can't breathe it either......(
  2. Okay. total thread drift......but take a look at the Great Storm of 1703: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_storm_of_1703
  3. Let's see...............how can we maximise drag here.........while making sure everyone on board gets to fully appreciate the roar of the engines..........hmmmmm
  4. You said the problem 'followed the EGT' when you moved the probe. Did you mean the problem remained at the same pipe.....or it moved when you moved the probe? Some thoughts: 1.The EGT probes are a standard K type thermocouple, two dissimilar metals welded together at the tip, produce a small voltage when heated. So not hard to check with a multimeter set to mV. There will be lookup tables for temp vs voltage. 2. It is my understanding that those same metals must be must be used all the way back to the Dynon. Red and yellow I think they are. Asking the stupid question: you don't have a join where the red/yellow have been crossed up? 3. The exhaust gases will not pass down the pipe in a uniform manner, especially close to the heads. Are the probes installed as recommended, and fully into the pipe? Could there a be leak there resulting in a hot spot? 4. If all that checks out, it does seem likely that it is associated with the remodelled pipe and/or anything that was disturbed at that time.
  5. I was chase crew in Scotland where 2 people jumped (individually) leaving only the pilot. Evidently he put the balloon in a hard sink before dropping anyone, as he wasn't sure how the balloon would behave. And yes, it tended to go back up, but it did nothing suddenly or violently, he said another time he would just keep climbing. Having said that......the pilot is the captain and what he says goes.......absolutely. Mr 2000jumps in the clip is a plonker........
  6. Something interesting going on with the upper outer leading edges there?
  7. Needs to be bulky enough..and/or with a lanyard to avoid losing it in a tank.......(
  8. Saw another clip of that........tail wheel not locked.
  9. IBob

    Paramount Mwari

    Hm. Reminiscent of the Barber Snark....
  10. I used thinners: maybe not ideal? And really sticking my neck out here: A local spray shop told me they used to paint aluminium panelled icecream vans. They would wipe down beforehand with a meths/water mix (which is pretty much what is in window cleaning solution).
  11. Yep, you put your finger on just one of the challenges there, especially as a first time builder of a kit you're not yet familiar with. If you are intent on coating or treating all surfaces, I would look at spray priming: at least with that you can do batches of any size as it suits you, so you can stay on top of what's what. And you're not dealing with baths of noxious chemicals., which I'm not sure how you maintain during a build that will take months and probably years.
  12. Found it. It's called the PaintBuddy Roller.
  13. You really need something that rolls on a very narrow strip, or you'll end up with it over whole areas where it's not required, and your can of black stuff will go nowhere. Also that roller will take a whole load of wetting, using still more black stuff. And will dry out, requiring a new roller and yet more black stuff.
  14. Personal message is the little envelope on the left of the screen. Click that and write your msg. Send it to Kyle Communications.
  15. Nononono! There is a narrow roller where you load the paint in the handle and it has a cap to prevent drying out. Ping Mark here at Kyle Communications, he'll be able to tell you what they are called and where to get them.
  16. Correction: Savannah kit assembly is all pop rivets. However the main spars and cockpit side walls come solid riveted from the factory.
  17. Christin, I did not use it except on the rudder. But I did not have the rollers, and brushing it is hopeless, as you push large amounts of it through all the rivet holes. I also thought it would constantly dry out on rollers, but it seems this is not so if they are capped. I guess because it is water based, not spirit Another builder was spray priming, so I went that way But if I was going again, I would get the rollers and use the black stuff. Whatever you do or use, you do need to treat both surfaces. The reason is that moisture and contaminants can sit in those places where metal meets metal, so you need to protect both pieces of metal. Facthunter, the Savannah is all pop rivets, but some very few are countersunk, and don't seem to give any trouble. For the most part they are used for things like locating nut plates: once the screw or bolt is into the nut plate and tightened, the rivets are doing nothing.
  18. That's very kind, Blueadventures. I don't know about faultless in my case. But I got so much from this site, Mark Kyle and others, during my build, I did my best to add to that. And I did take a lot of pics.
  19. Ahem.........brave person!!! 8 years ago I was asking similar questions........the thread is still there in the Savannah section, title That Black Stuff.
  20. You're a brave man Christin: paint systems has to be one of the most controversial topics........everyone knows best, if only what they knew best would line up! You don't do much countersinking on a Savannah, I don't know about the Ventura. But the one tool I wish I'd had was proper self-centering countersink bits.
  21. I guess a principal consideration re priming is whether the aircraft will be in a corrosive environment.
  22. Hi Christin..........the start of a special journey, then? When I built my Savannah, I did not use the black stuff, I primed everything. But it's a fair bit of extra work, you need the facilities and it holds up production: with the black stuff you can prep as many or as few parts as you like, whenever you like. With other coatings you pretty much have to do them in larger batches. I did not know much about the black stuff, and thought what I was doing would be a major improvement. Frankly, I now doubt that. If I were building again, I would use the black stuff, since there are enough hours in the build without adding to them unnecessarily. Other builders here have come up with a good roller system for applying it, and I would say that is essential. Surfaces need to be cleaned. It needs to go on both surfaces of any joins and laps. And it needs to be allowed to dry before assembly. Enjoy your build!
  23. https://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/350307701/watch-plane-lands-runway-moments-after-jet-takes-india Someone at ATC needs a thorough kicking.............(
  24. Assuming the top of the nose leg is flush and square (we have seen one that wasn't) and that SF327 is bolted down tight to it (with Loctite applied to the bolts) it should not be possible for for SM003 to move sideways. Once it does, you will get the damage shown (also the noises you report). So I would suggest that is the problem: that for some reason when SF327 in bolted down, it leaves a gap, allowing SM003 to shift sideways. Check the top of the noseleg is square and flush?
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