IBob
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Everything posted by IBob
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Thanks Neil_S. It's been pointed out to me that a similar thread was run here some years ago, but it delivered a surprising scattering of results. Having said that, weighing can have it's challenges, and I'm of the opinion that unless you can do multiple weighings with almost exactly the same result, something is wrong with the weighing process. We do know that lowering main UC wheels onto scales doesn't work well, as the UC then spreads and the scales don't respond well to that sideways force. I got round that by putting a strop across the lower UC (then subtracting the strop weight when I got finished). That gave me excellent repeatability. Rolling on does sound like an excellent alternative, but in practice it needs fairly long and wide ramps and pads that will stay put as the aircraft is manhandled. And again the aircraft has to be moved without inducing any UC spread or flex.
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Some headscratching locally over Savannah S empty (no fuel, brand new ) weights, as taken at the initial Weight & Balance. My S, with standard steam gauges, long range tanks, extended baggage, carpet, adjustable seats and Condor tires (next size up from standard) came in at 314.8Kilos I'd be interested to know numbers from other builders/owners. Thanks!
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Hi Kogg, nice looking machine. When ICP altered their design by removing the slats and adding VGs, they also altered the profile of the leading edge of the wing. However, it's not clear what difference the change of wing profile made. Your best source of information for your aircraft would be JG, who pioneered the slats-to-Vgs conversion on that model and conducted a great deal of testing. He flies the same aircraft as you, with slats removed and VGs added, and I don't think he changed his wing. His website is Stolspeed and is a goldmine of information. Suggest you contact him, see if he is open to a conversation: https://www.stolspeed.com/ I'm a bit puzzled that you say 'im buffeting and beginning to stall power off with no flaps at 60 mph.' I fly a Savannah S, the POH gives a flaps up stall speed of 30 to 35 kts depending on loading, and I know it cruises quite happily at 45kts. I note you are flying pretty much at Max All Up Weight and it could be interesting to know what your Weight and Balance is.
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Gary, I don't have a pic of mine, but here is a detail from the pics the then agent (since retired) sent me. I think he made the closer kits locally. He was responsible for a number of innovations, and also completed many kit builds. You can see how the rod is tapered on the outboard side at the end, both rods are like that. As mentioned, I also found it helpful to bend the very tip of the rod inboard a bit. I also looked at his pics to try and see if they also used the standard door front latch. It looks as though they didn't, but certainly the over-centre action of that latch will pull the front centre of the door in snug.
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Gary Nelson, neat job of the door closers! On mine, the rear rod goes into a hole in the fuselage frame, outboard of the extruded angle there. The hole is reinforced by a little SS plate, held by 2 rivnuts, with slotted holes to allow some adjustment. And the rod ends are not points, but shaved off to a point at a gradual angle on the outboard side so that they pull the door in as the rods move to the closed position. I found the door closed more readily if I bent the tips so as to give an easier lead-in.
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That looks great, Garry Nelson, and shows much of the necessary detail. Would need to be modified for the S, where the bottom edge of the door is not in one plane as it is in the VG in the video. Aside from that it looks like 'just' fabricating an al tube door frame to match the lower doorframe, then attaching polycarbonate with some sort of outer flange. Hinge and latch. I note he did a nice job of curving the upper frame member out wards (pretty much as it is in the standard S door, to give a bit more elbow room). I see in the flying footage he also has a polycarbonate deflector at the front of the upper door space. As for the standard S door: It's not easy to remove without risk of knocking your paintwork around. And I have 3-point door closers, sourced with my kit from Australia, though I do not know if the agent there still makes them.
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ATSB pushes ADS-B (rebate scheme ends May 31)
IBob replied to Garfly's topic in AUS/NZ General Discussion
I bet Mum was really pleased that going on holiday didn't interfere with her cooking.......though if the TV fell in the sink it probably would have......( -
Area 51, a couple of things to take into account regarding the standard doors: 1. They are bat-wing in operation. 2. They are not a rigid frame with the polycarbonate attached. They are upper and lower windows, with their joining point shaped and anchored together in such a way as to produce a slightly bubble shape, with a light frame around the whole. I am not confidant that the upper section or the upper polycarbonate could be removed without greatly weakening and probably deforming the remaining door. But I may be wrong......
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The Savannah S POH says it may be flown with one or both doors off. That side-slip should be avoided if only one door off. And that drag will be increased, particularly at high A of A.
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That's a really enjoyable interview......)
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Marty, I'd settle for once......)
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I wonder if the problem could be inadequate strength/bracing in the float? We once had a f/glass canadian canoe. Heading for home in failing weather after a week on a big lake, I accepted a tow from a power boat. While there was little in the canoe (just me), when the canoe got onto the wave from the boat, the bottom went flat then dinged in sharply. And while it didn't break or tear, as I recall there were stress marks where this may have happened before.
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Nice looking job, Marty! Another option is to have the the LE sitting in a sling, webbing or I used a strip of carpet, attached at a centre high point of the frame then passing down and under the LE, with the other end attached at a raised point over where your casters are. So the wing is sitting in a pair of slings, which conform to the shape of the LE, and are not resting on anything hard or solid. I copied mine from a pic I saw somewhere, passed it to another builder who has beefed it up and added wheels, it has now passed to a third builder...........)
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Depends what you are viewing on Flying Dog: On my laptop/PC it's a blue Following button at the top RH corner of the thread. Click on that and you can unfollow the thread.
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Danny, you may want to check the current output of that USB port: I have seen an aircraft equipped with them initially, but subsequently replaced with good quality conventional USB charging ports. I can only assume either that the output was inadequate for whatever they were driving (tablet?), or that they were electrically noisy.
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Cirrus 22M Shelter Cove Airport, CA
IBob replied to red750's topic in Aircraft Incidents and Accidents
BTW, there was early first person footage of parachuting into trees. Probably deliberately, as it would have have taken some effort back then to mount the camera gear. This was round canopy stuff, and shortly after entering the trees it looked like the jumper fell very sharply. I think what can happen is that if the jumper/payload/aircraft momentarily snags in parts of the tree, the canopy above continues descending or deflating. Then when the j/p/a unsnags and falls it is now no longer supported by the canopy, so can fall at a much higher rate........ -
Cirrus 22M Shelter Cove Airport, CA
IBob replied to red750's topic in Aircraft Incidents and Accidents
Well, that's a relief........was trying to figure how to get them to take the net down in time............) -
Steamgauge heaven!!! -
Suggest you avoid smoking in the dunny, though???
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It's interesting to note that ICP have come out with an 18L receiver tank. The standard kit tank has been 6L. This sits under the baggage area, and while it was probably introduced to increase fuel capacity, it would also move the C of G back by almost the same amount as my 10Kg of ballast.
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The 701 has a different rear stab/tail setup than the Savannah, so I can't speak for the former, Nev. I can say that with the later Savannah S, you run out of elevator authority on landing sooner than with the earlier VG. And on takeoff you can get the nosewheel off earlier/slower with the VG than the S. What seems to be going on is that the C of G, while well within limits, is also well forward, and particularly when lightly loaded. I tend to fly light, I added 10Kg ballast to the baggage area a while ago, and it is a quite different and much easier aircraft to land that way. I've been thinking since of moving the battery back instead, but am nowhere near getting round to it yet....
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JGs VGs are a really nice and well presented product, Marty. They come with precut double sided pads that make installation a breeze. (And no, nobody's paying me to say this!)
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I'd just say stick to the recipe (kit manufacturer's recommendation). It's quick and easy, none of mine have fallen off and I'm not aware of any other builders losing them. JG supplies precut 3M doublesided tape with his VG kits, which is excellent, but the Savannah wing has locating holes that match twin locating pegs on the VGs provided, and to tape them you would be somehow cutting round the pegs, also standing the VG off the surface.
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P 35 of the wing assembly section says to use 'ciano acrylic' glue, which is better known as cyanoacrylate or superglue. (It's mostly all in the manual.........somewhere.)
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I used superglue (onto 2 pot painted wing). And it's worth getting the superglue bottle with the little brush in the cap....like nail varnish. It's much easier to apply the right amount neatly with the brush than straight from the nozzle.
