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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. I hate to be pedantic but regular motor oil, and petrol has an organic origin. But I know what you mean by organic in this sense- non-hydrocarbon.
  2. I think it is right for flight schools to have students make all calls. You should be practiced in all of them before you can be omitting some. I still think it's better to call for entering, downwind and base- if there's no traffic, what's the harm? If there's lots of traffic, yes there is a lot more radio talk, but when there's lots of traffic that's EXACTLY when you do need more clarification. So long as old mate isn't having a chat about his kitchen renovations when it's busy. I also always announce clear runway and backtracking when applicable
  3. Apparently it's possible the top of the balloon flattens out from the sudden rise, which might cause it to deflate. Someone jumped to his death in Melbourne recently and that balloon was fine, but I'd take the word of the balloon pilot over the (apparently unlicensed) parachutist
  4. Look at this knob head. What an entitled douche. Risking unwilling and unwitting lives (Language warning)
  5. I should think if you oiled it, that would wash out with the fuel pretty quickly
  6. Spark plug debate here: https://www.recreationalflying.com/forums/topic/39835-rotax-9-series-engines-anti-seize-thermal-paste-nothing/#comment-566016
  7. Yeah, it's kind of a runway incursion isn't it?
  8. People in boat injured. All plane occupants ok. As you can imagine, sea plane activity in Vancouver is very busy
  9. Check https://www.vectriqparts.com.au/ They do better than original replacement regulators etc for lots of bikes and at least the Rotax 912, which I have. I couldn't immediately see if they have your one but worth a shot.
  10. Ger your mate to go back to the dentist!
  11. Sorry, I should have said stator, not field. My point is that regulating the output instead of the input is no big deal when it's only say 20 amps at most. You forgot to mention that the regulator is doing those steps many times a second. When described in steps people may not realise it. It's a fairly smooth operation from our point of view. I admit I know nothing of how it affects anything other than a lead acid battery. Those are pretty forgiving. Just pointing out that for general purposes they work just as well as regulating a rotor (which as you point out is actually the field winding, permanent magnets being the alternative to an electrically created field)
  12. It's not a problem with modern regulators. You already pointed it out- they regulate the output (field windings) on a permanent magnet jobby. There's more waste through heat of course from regulating say 20 amps instead of the 4 or 5 of a rotor coil.
  13. Oh, you don't have to explain it to us, we're good with it. Just email the Rotax engineers and tell them why they should stop recommending heat transfer paste. Be convincing and we'll all love you for it because then hopefully they'll recommend using nothing at all, saving us Rotax drivers money πŸ™‚ But please, FFS, use this link for continued debate https://www.recreationalflying.com/forums/topic/39835-rotax-9-series-engines-anti-seize-thermal-paste-nothing/#comment-566016
  14. The joke is you seem to be ignoring what the Rotax engineers are recommending. Maybe you could write them a letter to tell them where they are going wrong? All this is making the spare parts thread needlessly long.
  15. That's what I'VE been doing πŸ˜„
  16. I beg to differ on reaming. We used to do it all the time on the larger truck starters. Some of them were made so you HAD to ream them. Virtually no small starter will need to be reamed. Whatever the fit, that's how it goes. Some will seem criminally loose, that's just how they are. The worst in cars were Delco Remy and the Ford clap trap starter. Best were Bosch in my opinion
  17. Bugger. I give mine to the op shop from time to time. I WOULD have had it. Have you tried eBay? The one magazine I collect (Retro Gamer ) I was able to replace a couple of missing issues via eBay. Set up a loose search first to see what is out there ..I just tried 'sport pilot magazine ' and that got lots of hits. Save that search term and also look every now and then more specifically - add the year for instance. Right now that got me August. It took me many months to find mine, but there was not much effort because I would get emails when something came up. The reason I suggest a loose search as well as more specific is sometimes your magazine might be in a bulk lot. Good luck πŸ™‚
  18. Sounds like it. As facthunter says, bearings might be shot. Do you know what they source for the starter? It'll be a car or motorbike starter for sure. With luck luck you can get a bush kit for it, if it's that style of starter. If sintered bushes, do this- put the bush on the tip of your finger. Fill it up with motor oil, then quickly clamp down on the top with your thumb and squeeze it. You should see oil bubble through the metal. That gets it nice and lubed πŸ™‚ If you estimate you have at least half brushes left, probably best to leave them.
  19. Certainly worth testing, but most of the heat will be at the brush end. Hundreds of amps through carbon brushes is a weak link, resistively speaking.
  20. Of course I forgot to mention we are talking about the spark plugs in case anyone is wondering πŸ˜„
  21. Spark plug debate here: https://www.recreationalflying.com/forums/topic/39835-rotax-9-series-engines-anti-seize-thermal-paste-nothing/
  22. Here you can debate the merits. Personally, I think Rotax should know what's good for their engines. They designed them. They have by now tens of thousands of hours of data on them. To me the only thing to debate is WHICH thermal paste is a good alternative to the apparent hens teeth Rotax recommend.
  23. Damn, big jump in price 😲
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